How much is this worth?

Sean Cochran

Sean Cochran

Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
240
Ok I know Taylor Coleman just did this and got a lot of good feedback. I didnt want to hijack his thread, but being a relatively new maker I would like some input from you guys. So I beg your forgiveness for beating a dead horse:)

I just sold this skinner, you guys tell me what you think it is worth then Ill reveal what I sold it for.


Thanks for the help.

Sean

edit for got some spec.
1080, full flat grind, machine finished 600, cocobolo & black papermicarta
7" OAL
DSCF3262.jpg
 
I'd give 50.00 - 75.00 in a show type setting...your work shows promise so I'd give that to bolster you and keep my eye on your work.
 
The knife was worth, what you received for it; from the person you sold it to.
To the next person; the value that he sees in the knife may be quite different.
There is no accounting for taste.

Work to improve the knives that you make and the price that you receive for your work will improve along with your skills.
 
Fred said it right on. Our knives are only worth what we can sell them for. And we should always to strive to make the next one better.

MARCEL
 
Fred.Rowe said:
Work to improve the knives that you make and the price that you receive for your work will improve along with your skills.
Click to expand...

Yep. I'd say 60-75, maybe a bit more. Finish looks good, but the handle profile is too square for my taste.
 
A maker with a reputation might get $150 if everything is spot on. There isn't enough detail in that one pict, but from what I do see it appears you have potential, but that knife isn't quite a masterpiece yet. A spine shot, a measurement of edge thickness and blade hardness, and better lighting on the grind and handle would be more telling.

My guess, without having really seen it or handled it - $80-$100

If the HT or fit up is workable but not exactly great - $40-$60 - but in that case hopefully you wouldn't let it out of your shop.


edit: I love your avatar
 
Fred is exactly right. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Flaws will bring down the price and your reputation. Never sell a knife "cheaper" because its flawed.... just don't sell it, PERIOD. Five years from now, nobody will remember the "deal" .... they'll only see a fllawed knife with your name on it.

**Edit** That is not to say your knife is flawed, my thoughts were just wandering a bit.

You don't need to ask us what it's worth. Sell it for what you want to get for it.... people will buy it or they won't. Some folks are into Tactical... others, Period pieces. What one person thinks is ugly, another sees a work of art. There are so many variables that its sometimes better not to ask.

What if your customer paid $250 for it and we're telling you it's worth $70?


That's a toughy.

Rick
 
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I guess it was a little unreasonable for me to ask with out some better pics and specs. This was ground from 3/16" 1080, HT was non-magnegnetic then edge quenched triple tempered.

The handle does look a bit blocky in this photo, but it is actually countoured. It finished wicked sharp, I cut thick cardboard until I was too tired to cut anymore, gave it a quick strop and good as new.

Wish I had gotten some better pics, but the first guy I showed it to took it, then ordered another for his son.

BTW I got $100 with a tooled leather sheath. I think that was fair.

Nathan,
I snapped that pic of the "jedis" in the back yard, they kept mumbling something about the evil empire.;):)

edit: Thanks for all the honest input guys. It is what I need, I cant get better without know what Im doing wrong or could be doing differently.

Sean
 
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It's very difficult to guarantee your work if you are doing a magnet check before quench. That in itself drives the price down. Thermocouples and pyrometers can be found fairly cheap on Ebay. Just a thought.

I like the profile, but agree that the handle can be a little more rounded (atleast for my tastebuds).

Having said that, the price ranges given are pretty close. I like your work and look forward to seeing more! I've been a bad forumite and haven't been posting my work - I should get on that!

Later,
Brook
 
bjalongi said:
It's very difficult to guarantee your work if you are doing a magnet check before quench. That in itself drives the price down. Thermocouples and pyrometers can be found fairly cheap on Ebay. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Not sure I full agree with that, Brook. I know many highend makers who judge by colour, magnets, shadows, etc... I trained by eye using tempilstix (crayons that melt at specific temperatures) as guides. I still recalibrate my eye from time to time... keeping things in check is good.

Consistency is the magic ingredient for quality. Being able to repeat results over and over with little variance. You need to test your work, break blades... tweak your processes to achieve great performance and LOCK IT IN. Metallurgy is VERY predictable with consistency. The romance of knifemaking can co-exsist with modern metallurgy if certain anchor points are in place.

That said, its always nice to have access to saltpots, digitally controlled ovens, agitated quenchtanks and Rockwell testers.... lol.

Cheers
Rick
 
Magnussen said:
Not sure I full agree with that, Brook. I know many highend makers who judge by colour, magnets, shadows, etc... I trained by eye using tempilstix (crayons that melt at specific temperatures) as guides. I still recalibrate my eye from time to time... keeping things in check is good.

Consistency is the magic ingredient for quality. Being able to repeat results over and over with little variance. You need to test your work, break blades... tweak your processes to achieve great performance and LOCK IT IN. Metallurgy is VERY predictable with consistency. The romance of knifemaking can co-exsist with modern metallurgy if certain anchor points are in place.

That said, its always nice to have access to saltpots, digitally controlled ovens, agitated quenchtanks and Rockwell testers.... lol.

Cheers
Rick
Click to expand...


Very true. When I first started out I used a magnet, trying to stay as consistent as possible. I was also using what ever types of steel I could get my hands on. Even with a notebook that I tried to maintain so I could repeat good HTs after countless destructive tests, I still had some variance. I found that with a pyrometer I could accurately control my process.

A good number of the makers who have many years under their belts and simply do it by eye have a level of experience that a newer maker hasn't gained. If a newer maker wants to begin selling blades, I feel they are doing their customers a service by attempting to control their process until they gain the experience to bypass a step or two. This is why I feel it's difficult to guarantee one's work if they are simply using a magnet, unless they are, as Rick indicated, very experienced.

I'm a newer maker, and probably will be for many years to come.

Take care,
Brook
 
bjalongi said:
Very true. When I first started out I used a magnet, trying to stay as consistent as possible. I was also using what ever types of steel I could get my hands on. Even with a notebook that I tried to maintain so I could repeat good HTs after countless destructive tests, I still had some variance. I found that with a pyrometer I could accurately control my process.
Click to expand...


This has been my problem too. Thats why I ordered a PID, I plan on using it with a propane forge for the time being, then later Im going to build an oven.

At least I will be able to somewhat maintain a constant temp. I dont trust my eyes to tell the temp of the steel. It just seems to much like guess work to me. Its been almost impossible to repeat the same HT even using from the same batch of steel. I am looking for a repeatable process. May check out a pyrometer as well. I am only working with basic steels 10xx, 5160 and just a couple of 52100 (which I found out real quick is a picky beast:))

So I figure if I can stay with so called simple steels (e.g. 10xx) and control the process I can nail the HT.

At least thats the plan.:)
 
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