How narrow can you go?

V

Vaunripped

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Nov 20, 2010
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Basically how narrow (edge to spine) can I go on .204 or 1/4 stock and still get a relatively thin edge with out putting step in the spine?

I'm working on a general out line my dad gave me for a EDC/Hunter for him to use as a "sling knife?" for the sling on his rifle. He wants it narrow, like 1' or less from edge to spine, a full flat grind, 3 3/4"-3" in the blade. He literally got out his old Buck 102, and said he wanted something in that size.

I'm just trying to decide if I should get thinner stock or if I can do it with what I have.

Thanks for any advice.

Dusty
 
1/4" is .250", .204 is considerably thinner than that but still relatively thick for what you are describing. I would use 1/8" (.125") or 5/32" (.156") for a knife that size, some guys might go thinner.
 
1/8" (.125) would be my choice for a knife like you describe.
Stan
 
Ditto, I use a lot of 1" width 1/8" thick 1080 and 1084. You might consider the next step up since a lot of stainless seems to sell at .140, but I'm not sure I'd go any further. You will start needing very steep bevels.
 
I think you and the responders are missing something.

If you full flat grind ( edge to spine grind) any piece of steel, you will get a fine edge. The blade may be thick or thin stock, tall or short beveled........ but the edge is .00001" if you sand and sharpen it as a full flat grind.

On a .5" wide by .2" thick piece of steel, the edge angle is 25 ( average for most hunting knives), which is a pretty sharp edge.
Make it a 1" by .200" piece of steel and the full flat grind goes down to 10° - a very thin and sharp edge ( about what a Japanese sashimi knife edge is at).
If we use a .125X1.5" bar, we get a 5° edge angle - insanely sharp and super fragile.

The final edge is almost always given a small secondary bevel to make the edge angle usable.

What these different thickness and heights will change on the knife is how easily it cuts and how long the edge will last. An axe needs a lot of "meat" behind the edge, so it 1" thick with a convex grind and a very steep secondary grind. A fillet knife has a full flat grind on .10 or less stock, and a tiny secondary grind, to achieve a thin slicing knife. Slice with an axe, or chop with a fillet, and you will get poor results.

The requested knife would be fine with a .50-.75" by .125-.150" thick stock. Full flat grind the blade, and put on a 12-13° (25° included angle) edge. This will make a good utility EDC.
I personally would start with .125X.75 stock for a small EDC, or .135X1" for a little bit larger knife.
If you are doing the HT yourself, 1084 will be a good choice. If sending it out, CPM-S35VN is a great choice.
 
Ok, yes you are 100% correct, and it was my fault for phrasing it poorly.

I am doing the HT myself, I really like simple steels. They all seem to be more than tough enough and hold an edge as well as I need, above all they are cheep to buy.

Thanks again for the advice, I don't know what I would do with out this forum for info.

Dusty
 
I just finished a blade that's similar in dimensions. I started with the tang end of a 1" wide file and ground the blade with strong distal taper. While I tried to keep the full thickness of the file at the handle junction for strength, tapering to zero at the tip really gives you a fine edge for slicing. The majority of fine cutting, like skinning a deer or whittling, takes place at the tip of a knife. At the back of the edge, nearest the handle, you usually see people putting a lot of force into the work and a thicker spine/bevel can be useful.

Also, on small blades like this, nobody is going to really hog down on them like you would with a Bowie. These aren't for chopping down trees so I don't feel like I've sacrificed strength or durability by making the tip so fine.
 
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