How sharp did your Busses come from the factory?

It depends. My black/tan G-10 BATAC came with a good working edge - not shaving sharp, but sharp enough. My FFBMs came sharp as hell, good enough for shaving my beard with it. Most of my GWs came near shaving sharp. One came so sharp it almost cut me through the package. :eek: None came anywhere near what I'd call dull.
 
Of the three I've received so far, two I'd describe as working sharp and the "custom" as near shaving sharp. I've changed blade angles and convexed all but one of my other knives, but decided with the Busse's to go with the factory angle so that I'd have a working edge for a longer time. It would be very easy for me to get the Busse's to a shaving or hair-splitting sharp edge if one day I decide to go that route.
 
All of the above, but I dont care. Its the knives I want, not the edge. I end up reprofiling every knife I get Busse or not.
 
I've owned quite a few at one time or another, and can honestly say they've all been able to shave hair, although some were better than others. The sharpest factory edge to date has been my BAD. It's a little scary. :cool:
 
Both my Busse's came able to shave hair. Of course I can't leave 'em alone and I end up dressing the edges a bit. Hair-popping sharp. But recently I've begun to reconsider....

I have read and heard that a stropped edge does not last as long as an edge that still has some 'teeth': the little jagged edges that can really cut. Now on my kitchen knives I keep a razor edge--the strop and stone are always at hand. But on field knives, like my Busses, I just get 'em shaving sharp on a fine India or water stone.

I may be fooling myself, but the unstropped edges DO seem to last longer.

So what is sharp?
 
I have two that came about middle of the road, and the rest of the knives I would put in the silverware drawer next to my butter knives. But with a little work on the sharp-maker and some stroppage and the with shave hairs.
 
Rotte said:
Both my Busse's came able to shave hair. Of course I can't leave 'em alone and I end up dressing the edges a bit. Hair-popping sharp. But recently I've begun to reconsider....

I have read and heard that a stropped edge does not last as long as an edge that still has some 'teeth': the little jagged edges that can really cut. Now on my kitchen knives I keep a razor edge--the strop and stone are always at hand. But on field knives, like my Busses, I just get 'em shaving sharp on a fine India or water stone.

I may be fooling myself, but the unstropped edges DO seem to last longer.

So what is sharp?
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Busse forum! :thumbup:

I've heard it said, and it makes sense, that both a smooth, polished edge and a "toothy" edge with micro-serrations are good for different things.

The micro-serrated edge may have an advantage in slicing, especially in certain materials such as rope and fabric. It'll also probably keep cutting longer after it's lost some of it's sharpness. The smoother edge push-cuts better like with paper and shaving hair. Also, the smoother edges seem to have an advantage on the big choppers, since the micro-serrations would tend to deform or break with a lot of impacts.

I usually go with a more polished edge, except for some knives. If I know it'll get used most cutting rope/twine, cardboard or stuff like that, I'll sometimes leave the edge very rough. This works pretty well.
 
Ash- sharp, not shaving sharp but it took me all of two minutes to get it arm hair shaving sharp.
Comp Hell Razor- hair spltting sharp, my perfect knife.
It remains hair shaving sharp even after limbing several large poplars that fell down in ohio's recent wind storm.
The thing flies through wood.
 
Two of my busse's did not come with factory edges. The FBMLE came from Siegle, so it was hair popping sharp, and still a bit toothie at the same time. The gw was convexed, and not too sharp till it had a date with my strop. The pumpkin SS came hair shaving sharp. The BAD came dull, it would tear paper rather than cut it. The problem with the BAD was that it still had a touch of wire edge on it. A quick strop and it was hair shaving sharp.

Infi, no matter the edge profile seems to stay sharper longer than my other steels.
 
No offense KyleB... and welcome to the Busse forum... but lately, I've noticed that this topic has been used to besmirch Busse Combat. The fact is, Busse's are generally not shipped with a "fine-edge". So what? Who the hell spends time on bladeforums that does not know how to sharpen their own knife, with their own preferred angle or edge? (shouldn't people like that be on a GQ metrosexual forum somewhere???:rolleyes:) Perhaps people that cannot sharpen knives are truly better off with a $10 mora. When it gets dull... throw it away and buy a new one (plastic sheath and all). Maybe when such people learn to sharpen a knife they can step up to the big league, but people should not knock a knifemaker because they lack the skills to sharpen a knife. :)
 
I have one Busse (an sfno variant I think) that came so sharp it was scary! I have only had one knife not come shaving sharp and that was my really thick game warden. it was sharp just not shaving sharp. A few minutes on a stone changed that.
 
I agree with ya, KDStrick, but I must admit the troll in here earlier had me wondering. If she's not sharp when she gets here, I'll just run her over a fine grit diamond stone.
 
Most of my Busse's come hair shaving sharp. It's never been an issue, and like others have said, Busse sells their knives with a particular edge geometry geared towards modification. If it's not to your liking, change it.
 
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