how sharp for Fiskars axe?

[Billbo66]

So...a buddy gave me his Fiskars hatchet/axe to sharpen and make a Kydex sheath (posted pic in Wilderness forum). After years of neglect, this thing had huge gouges out of the blade. I carefully took a file to it, and worked out the nicks, alternatively attacking each side till I got a clean edge to work with. My next move was to use the mouse pad/wet-dry sand paper convex method from 220 up to 1000 grit. In my mind, it worked out great, and this axe cuts paper like a knife.

The problem- I took it to work to show of the sheath, and another buddy thinks it is too sharp. Granted, this thing wont hold that edge past the second swing, but in my mind sharper is always better. I figured the slightly convexed edge would give it a few more minutes of staying power.

My question is...what is considered healthy for an axe blade regarding sharpness? Does the "sharp knife is a safe knife" thinking not apply to hatchets and axes? Can an axe be too sharp? As a knife guy, but not an axe guy, I need an education. I even spelled axe wrong in my earlier post. Thanks

 

[Carolina River Rat]

Hmmmm...I think that it depends on what you're using it for. I keep my khuks and axes sharp, but not shaving sharp, because I don't ever plan on shaving with one. If I'm ever in a situation where a khuk/axe is all I have to shave with, then a beard is likely the least of my worries. My smaller knives I generally keep close to razor sharp. With the heavy chopping that an axe is likely to go through, a slightly thicker edge is likely to hold up longer and be less likely to chip or otherwise deform. But, I have been wrong before. Once.

 

[Snake Dr.]

I have the Gerber/Fiskars 15" Camp Hatchet, And I've had It for many year's and It hold's what I like to call a "Coon Skinning Edge" and It hold's up well In cutting all type's of Wood, And It dont take much to keep It that way after each use, I really like the Finnish made Fiskars line of Axe's & Hatchet's "I dont know what kind of Steel they use but It sure nuff hold's that edge" and there Composite Handle's are Indestuctible,

 

[Varulv]

, I really like the Finnish made Fiskars line of Axe's & Hatchet's "I dont know what kind of Steel they use but It sure nuff hold's that edge" and there Composite Handle's are Indestuctible,

I experienced the exact opposite with mine 14*'' fiskars
the edge have chipped badly at the first use on green soft wood,
the handle had broke on the first winter & the temperarture was only at something like -5 celcius.

Another problem was the orange part of the handle that was slippery during use but the all black version should be better.

maybe i've got a lime but i dont trust this kind of axe,hatchet anymore.

 

[SpookyPistolero]

For me it's simply that a sharp axe is a safe axe. Dull = glancing blows. With a hatchet/hand axe this is doubly important, since you're working with things that much closer to you.

 

[Snake Dr.]

I experienced the exact opposite with mine 14*'' fiskars
the edge have chipped badly at the first use on green soft wood,
the handle had broke on the first winter & the temperarture was only at something like -5 celcius.

Another problem was the orange part of the handle that was slippery during use but the all black version should be better.

maybe i've got a lime but i dont trust this kind of axe,hatchet anymore.

Sorry to hear of the problem's you had with your Fiskars Axe, The Model I have Is the all Black Gerber/Fiskars,

 

[Any Cal.]

I don't care for edged tools without a decent edge. If it is supposed to be sharp, then put a nice edge on it. If the edge is dull, you will tire more doing the same task, making it more dangerous. It also leaves more opportunity for glances, as mentioned earlier.

I don't believe that a duller edge somehow makes a tool safer. If someone cannot be safe with the tool, don't let them use it. An unsafe user is unsafe regardless of the condition of the edge. A safe user needs the edge to be in top condition to help them stay safe.

 

[TLM]

I experienced the exact opposite with mine 14*'' fiskars
the edge have chipped badly at the first use on green soft wood,
the handle had broke on the first winter & the temperarture was only at something like -5 celcius.

Here there has been very few complaints about the axes, for either the head or handle. The head is a very simple forging and the HT for it is also quite simple so getting it wrong is difficult but of course not impossible. The handle is glass reinforced polyamide directly molded on the head, again a fairly simple process difficult to get wrong. The material is not affected by temperature in any way (believe me, it has been tested in practice here). The handle can be broken, the way to do it is to get it stuck onto a stump and then bend or kick it sideways, that is the standard way the scouts here achieve it.

I have still to break one and I do have four I guess. But lemons appear.

TLM