How sharp is sharp enough?

The only person I actively compete with is myself. I like to constantly tweak my process to see if I can find an edge I like better.

I read a long time ago that it’s more important to have a durable apex than the sharpest possible apex. I sacrifice a small amount of sharpness to have a slightly more durable apex.

While some makers might say he if I can cut cardboard that’s good enough the reality is customers can notice especially when they pick up a blade with a really well done edge.

Some of the frequent feedback I get is how sharp my edges are.
 
I've taken up sharpening as a bit of a side hustle, and it's been pretty illuminating. Good way to hone the skills, pun intended.
 
Sharpness is a measure of the radius at the apex, ideally around .4 of a micron, when it gets to over 1 micron it starts to feel dull.

Keenness is measure of how polished an edge is.

You can’t get something sharper by using finer grit stones, only keener.

There are two types of cutting, slice cutting and push cutting.

Slice cutting requires a coarser finish and push cutting requires a finer finish.

The coarser the finish, the longer it will hold an edge. Microscopically, there’s just more edge to wear, micro serrations.

For most cutting tasks you don’t need any finer than 600 grit (American) or 1000 grit Japanese.

Most makers don’t do enough to remove the burr after sharpening. Stropping is essential.

Hoss
 
To answer the original question, for the local/regional shows I do, I’m familiar with pretty much all the other makers’ work so I make mine sharper than theirs. I spend a lot of time finishing my edges. Not that I’m an expert but people can certainly tell the difference. I’m a low output maker so I’m not too worried about how long I spend refining an edge. I don’t stop until I’m happy with it.

Like Hoss said, “stropping is essential.” My knifemaking buddies give me a good natured hard time for my stropping protocol but they don’t argue with the results.
 
DevinT said:
Sharpness is a measure of the radius at the apex, ideally around .4 of a micron, when it gets to over 1 micron it starts to feel dull.

Keenness is measure of how polished an edge is.

You can’t get something sharper by using finer grit stones, only keener.

There are two types of cutting, slice cutting and push cutting.

Slice cutting requires a coarser finish and push cutting requires a finer finish.

The coarser the finish, the longer it will hold an edge. Microscopically, there’s just more edge to wear, micro serrations.

For most cutting tasks you don’t need any finer than 600 grit (American) or 1000 grit Japanese.

Most makers don’t do enough to remove the burr after sharpening. Stropping is essential.

Hoss
Click to expand...

I'm pretty happy with my edges, I've been told numerous times that mine are Too Sharp.
But, for wanting to always improve....
I'll admit I don't feel successful with stropping.
Ok with wood, but leather has not been great.

What I do is use a Scott Gossman sharpening steel. I love this thing.
I wish it was bigger. I might ask him, or send out for treatment a Bigger piece of steel, for a bench top version? It a little bit more aggressive than regular stropping.

However....I have this piece of large balsa. I could try stropping again. What kind (brands) of rouge/abrasives do you use and can recommend? Thanks.IMG_20260125_123318416.jpgIMG_20260125_123255883.jpg
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I'm pretty happy with my edges, I've been told numerous times that mine are Too Sharp.
But, for wanting to always improve....
I'll admit I don't feel successful with stropping.
Ok with wood, but leather has not been great.

What I do is use a Scott Gossman sharpening steel. I love this thing.
I wish it was bigger. I might ask him, or send out for treatment a Bigger piece of steel, for a bench top version? It a little bit more aggressive than regular stropping.

However....I have this piece of large balsa. I could try stropping again. What kind (brands) of rouge/abrasives do you use and can recommend? Thanks.View attachment 3086901View attachment 3086902
Click to expand...
3 micron diamond spray on a paddle strop for most things.

Hoss
 
Any suggestions on where to learn to strop better? I don't really know what I'm doing, and have been using a leather belt on a 1x30 without really knowing what angle to hold the blade at. It would be nice to know what to work on and what I should be doing.
 
Here is 9 pages of discussion on the subject:
T

Thread 'Stropping: angle plus pressure'

A lot of people have noticed that stropping can make an edge duller as well as sharper. Some say you need a lot of pressure, some say you need no more than the weight of the knife. Actually, you need to get the right combination of angle and pressure.
I tried to capture this relationship visually:
The black string represents the surface of the leather strop. The wood represents the edge. It is cut to a 30-degree inclusive angle, a popular edge angle for knives with good steel. Ideally, you want the string parallel with the edge bevel.

First: Proper angle and very little pressure...
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Ricky-O said:
Any suggestions on where to learn to strop better? I don't really know what I'm doing, and have been using a leather belt on a 1x30 without really knowing what angle to hold the blade at. It would be nice to know what to work on and what I should be doing.
Click to expand...
Get yourself a pocket microscope, you can see the burr , some are very small. They reflect light.

Hoss
 
how I sometimes try things out to see if I'm getting there
 
Does a leather belt on a 2x72 have any advantages for stropping over a simple paddle strop?
 
I do feel what really makes a difference for a keen edge that the user will notice compared to other knives is a hand sharpening. I suspect makers knives that have burr issues were more likely sharpened on a grinder.

With hand sharpening, bench stones or guided systems, I have not seen burrs being an issue. I rarely and barely strop but have no burr issue when hand sharpening.
 
Seedy Lot said:
I do feel what really makes a difference for a keen edge that the user will notice compared to other knives is a hand sharpening. I suspect makers knives that have burr issues were more likely sharpened on a grinder.

With hand sharpening, bench stones or guided systems, I have not seen burrs being an issue. I rarely and barely strop but have no burr issue when hand sharpening.
Click to expand...
I am right there with you. As a small batch maker, I take my time on sharpening and enjoy the process. It's what got me into making knives. I always use bench stones with a guided system, and only inentionally raise a burr on the first stone. Every stone after the coarse grit is always edge leading, with a descending number of passes (ie 10 on the right then 10 on the left. 9 on the right 9 on the left....down to 1 pass per side for 20 times).

I might strop on occasion, but rarely do. There is no burr on the apex after all that, verified by microscope, and edge longevity.
 
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