How sharp is sharp?

[Bors]

Yes as I sad my needs require full sharpness. Because I do not see any reason not to complete sharpening and sharpen it routinely I found a lot of use for it. If you learn how to achieve this sharpness not once by accident but stable and without special effort so you can have it any time you want - you will find a lot of use for this as well.

Just learn how to sharpen - it is easy and you will see a lot of new use for your knife.

Only problem is - average steel will not hold it for long. You need good steel for this as well - ZDP189, SR101, Dozier D2. What is you blade steel?

Thanks, Vassili.

I can sharpen knives to this level but even good steels dull, roll or chip easy when they encounter hard things. This type of edge is great for some fine chores but for me it's not very useful unless we are talking about woodworking tools and such. I's also good for impressing people and cutting free floating silk scarves and such. Not trying to argue.

 

[nozh2002]

Vassili, can you recommend a good sharpening set up? I saw some of your youtube videos but not sure of your set up? DMT extra course, course, then fine diamond? And a strop? I can't seem to get my blades (esp the point) sharpened properly freehand...my bevels are uneven.

You see my lessons - it is all there.

I may add that what is important I think here:

1. Stand, does not really matter what angle, but it just lift stone up and gives you more freedom to hold knife. If stone is on the table - it is much less convenient - not enough space.

2. CrO paste need to be semi liquid, like butter or thick oil. I guess at this sharpness level it is more about not damaging edge while you are sharpening.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. here the first video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TscN9h-1xQ

 

[nozh2002]

I can sharpen knives to this level but even good steels dull, roll or chip easy when they encounter hard things. This type of edge is great for some fine chores but for me it's not very useful unless we are talking about woodworking tools and such. I's also good for impressing people and cutting free floating silk scarves and such. Not trying to argue.

Once again - learn how to sharpen it with stable results and you will fine use for it, as I did. Once I am doing this - I do not see reason why to stop in the middle, and as I sad before I do not see too much difference in effort to me is is same to sharpen it to hair whittling sharp - any way I have to remove burr and this takes same effort do I use CrO or coarser stone from previous steps.

If you have any question how to learn it - I'll be happy to help. And see my previous post.

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[tsiloics]

Depends partly on the knife, for me.

For a basic pocket knife or small fixed blade, probably up to #320 on a stone and then on to green rouge on a strop = aggressive shaving. That's good enough for me. Then I maintain on the strop, maybe fall back to a ceramic rod after a while, then back to the stone when the blade stops popping back.

I play around with sharper blades sometimes, but basically just want to be able to maintain good shaving sharpness on the strop for my EDC-type knives.

Some of my larger blades are convexed, but never really got into that for everything.

 

[DeckardB26354]

That's true, there's a point where it's sharp enough and any more is really just obsessive. But, I guess we're all a little bit nuts when it comes to knives.

I was not overly impressed with how sharp my Benchmade was out of the box. It was probably good enough. But how can you be satisified with pretty sharp, when you know there are at least a couple more levels above that? Wicked sharp being the pinnacle!

Since I have been using sharpening stones for over 30 years, it is relatively easy for me to get a good edge. You have to first look at the edge and guesstimate the angle. Take a couple strokes on each side and see (It was easy to tell because the grindlines were very visible from the factory) whether you're too steep or shallow.

Once you get it it correct, just go 5 or so strokes on each side at a time and keep checking the edge by running your finger over it. I prefer to start with a diamond grit fine, to extra fine, and finally a translucent Arkansas stone.

As one pointed out, the sharper an edge is the more you have to touch it up, but that's no deterrent for me. A couple strops against some steel will usually be enough to align the edge again.

440C isn't as durable as D2, S30V, or 154CM, but to me the price premium you pay for these steels isn't justifiable. (it may be someday) As long as it isn't 440A, which is too soft, most of the commonly used steels will do the job adequately.