How Sharp Should We Have Our Khuks

ghorka

ghorka

Joined
Jul 7, 2002
Messages
140
hi everyone, now a serious question for all out there,i have managed to get my khuks pretty damn sharp,and i been thinking perhaps to sharp,now they are biteing me when i handle them.
i read some posts in here somewhere, i cant find em again, that perhaps we dont need to have our khuks this sharp.i know the expert sharpeners out there like yvsa and cliff and others can and do get there blades razor poppin sharp,this got me to thinking how dangerous this could be,even just from droppin your khuk, as witnessed by the thigh injury someone incurred. i realy would appreciate some sensable advice from long time users of khuks as to whether we need them so sharp or should we be able to do all the choppin an cutting we need to do with less fine sharpenin. now the thing is i know blunt blades are a hazard to,but i am not suggestin blunt just say like half of what i can as a novice get them, say like a reasonable axe. will this be sufficient do do the jobs, keeping in mind that this may prevent serious injuries. i would think a glancing blow by a khuk not razor sharp would do a lot less damage than one that is razor poppin.an if you happen to lose your grip an it slides down yer thigh it probably wont slice a great gash in it. well i think thats enuff questions, now lets get some usefull opinions. oh one last question for yvsa please, what is a moran edge, and are there any examples i can see anywhere thanks.
I MIGHT ADD I HAVE TRYED 2 KHUKS ONE AS SHARP AS I CAN GET IT, AN ONE NOT NEAR AS SHARP AND I CANT DETECT A MASSIVE AMOUNT OF DIFFERENCE IN CUTTING AND SPLITTING TIMBER??:( :) :confused: ;)
 
I am interested in others opinions on this too. I keep some sharper than others but for chopping wood, it does not seem to matter that much. I usually keep my lighter, quicker blades sharper than the heavier, thicker ones.
 
For me it seems there are two point to discuss. One is acuteness of edge, the other is width of edge.
IMO obtuse angle with well narrowed (smaller diameter) edge apex is ideal where a dummy like me can't achieve. Inconstantly angled sharpening rounds the apex, then I try to compensate for it by making edge angle more acute, eventually I have my knife with thin, brittle and still dull edge.
 
Lots of tools have cutting edges, khukuris aren't unique in that area.
In my humble opinion, any tool that requires sharpening should be sharpened according to it's intended use. If it's sharp enough to do it's job, it's sharp enough.

Sarge
 
A dull blade is dangerous. If you are getting cut you are not handling knives carefully. Yes, I know everyone gets cut.

I almost dropped a khuk today. Might have been the first cut, but wasn't.

munk
 
thanks guys i know a dull blade is dangerous i made mention of that in my thread,and no i didant handle the blade carefully enuffff,as i am not used to it being that sharp.
[sorta like askin how longs a piece of string] what i am asking is isant it better to have it not so sharp so that, if you drop it,it doesant amputate your toes,foot,or cuts a great swathe down your thigh??. so how sharp is sharp enuff.cos i kinda thought that if isharpen my khuks to reasonablly keen edge,that should cover just about all chopping wood trees,ect,killin things that need killin
[ie animal attacks ect] and then have the karda razor sharp for any cuttin and skinning ect. so what i am asking is opinions from you experienced guys who are usein your khuks in the field a lot.does what i am suggestin sound resonabley sound. cos i am sure there are a lot of new guys out there who are not sure.regards ghorka:)
 
I would say that what you are proposing is close to how I do things. Choppers don't need to shave. I guess Sarge put it best. The edge must fit the intended job.
 
Originally posted by ghorka
what i am asking is isant it better to have it not so sharp so that, if you drop it,it doesant amputate your toes,foot,or cuts a great swathe down your thigh??.
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Isn't that like saying "Use a baseball bat to cut down a tree because it's safer".

What I'm trying to do is learn to sharpen a blade so it can make hair jump off one's arm. Then theoretically I can make blades not as sharp. From there you can start cutting stuff and see what works best for what application. I dunno. When I go to shave hair off my arm I have to scrape away enough skin so that the hair falls out. My sharpening skill isn't very good yet. :)
 
Isn't that like saying "Use a baseball bat to cut down a tree because it's safer".

What I'm trying to do is learn to sharpen a blade so it can make hair jump off one's arm

thanks bruise
is that why they call you bruise?? cos thats what will happen to the poor tree your way [BASEBALL BAT] HE HE HE
i gree i to would like to be able to sharpen like cliff and yvsa,and will need to for the karda. but like i say why hair poppin sharp on the khukuri, i think this is perhaps overkill and very dangerous. can you imagine what damage you would do to your self if you accidently carry on through when cutting a branch ect, if useing a khuk that sharp. i shudder to think.:eek: :eek: :confused:
 
Veeeery sharp. If one of my khuks will not cut a post-it note or piece of paper, its time to run it on the Chakmak. If that doesn't do it, its time for the ceramic rod.

When I cut coins, if the inside of the coin is not polished by the khuk edge as it slices throgh, Then the khuk needs steeled or sharpened.

For the record, I have never taken a sharpening stone on any of my khuks, just never needed more than the chakma(k) to bring them back up to shaving sharp.

Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
Veeeery sharp. If one of my khuks will not cut a post-it note or piece of paper, its time to run it on the Chakmak. If that doesn't do it, its time for the ceramic rod.

When I cut coins, if the inside of the coin is not polished by the khuk edge as it slices throgh, Then the khuk needs steeled or sharpened.

now this is what i dont understand, when do we anticipate being harrassed by post it notes ,or coins leaping out of the woods,i thought the idea was to cut tree branches an wood, not paper he he:)
SO FAR EXCELLENT INFO FROM BOB WHITE, SILVRFALCON,AN WRONGFRIEND. COME ON GUYS:)
 
The more I think on it the more I agree with the application fits the sharpness idea. I keep my chisels and plane blades super sharp, but my axe much less so. It is by no means dull but it won't shave either. Knife lovers tend to have a whole different defintion of sharp than the average person. Maybe we look more at sharpness as a range or matter of degree. The average person looks at it more like sharp or dull. I think what is dull to me is sharp to many. There is definately some perspective issues to address.
 
ghorka many of your questions are already answered in print if you would just look around a bit.:rolleyes:

From the Tutorials/FAQ's at the top of any page.

http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqsharp-differently.shtml
The Moran (Convex) Edge

Named after Bill Moran and featured on many of Blackjack's knives, the Moran edge (aka convex edge) is, well, convex. Usually, an edge is a straight bevel over the last millimeter or two of the knife. With a convex edge, the edge continuously curves towards the very point. The advantage is that there's more metal behind the edge, so you end up with a very sharp but strong edge, which needs to be felt to be believed. Knifemakers typically create this edge with a slack belt, which leads us to the disadvantage: if you don't have a slack belt grinder and the know-how, you'll need to return your knife to the maker for sharpening periodically.**
**(Edit: This remark is no longer true. I understand that Joe is updating the FAQ's and this statement will probably be stricken.)

If you buy an unfinished tanto blade from Bob Engnath, you'll see that edge consists of 3 distinct straight grinds, each more acute than the one before. When hand-finishing the tanto, the junctures between the grind angles disappear, and you end up with a convex edge.

Some people simulate a convex edge by double- or triple-grinding the edge. That is, after they've ground the edge, they change the bevel angle and grind a bit more. This is easy to do with Lansky-type rigs and the Razor Edge type clamps. It results in a superb edge. But it is not quite the same thing as a convex edge.

Some people use the term "rolled edge" to mean a convex edge. As such, a "rolled edge" is a good thing. But most people use the term "rolled edge" to mean a wire edge -- that is, an edge that is not an edge at all, but a burr that's been turned down. A wire edge will be razor sharp, but will break off and leave your knife dull the first time you use it. When used this way, "rolled edge" is a bad thing. So when you hear the words "rolled edge", you'll need to listen carefully to the context. If the speaker is using the term approvingly, a convex edge is meant; if the speaker is using the term disapprovingly, a wire edge is meant.
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Bill said it all, "As sharp as you want them."
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Not all of mine are razor sharp, some I have never sharpened because I haven't been able to get outside to test them.
But there are many that have razor sharp edges and is what I prefer as did the older generations.
There is a world of difference between a razor sharp edge and a razor edge.
The razor edge is what a razor has and it's too thin and fragile to chop with.
A razor sharp and well polished edge will generally last much longer and is easier to maintain in the field with a small diamond hone and the chakma.
Get Munk to send you the e-mail I sent him on sharpening if he hasn't lost it again. I deleted all of my sent messages a few days ago so it's gone and I'm not typeing it all out again.
 
Ghorkha: I thought you were asking a question 'bout edge sharpness recomendations, a question to all forumites, right?
No idea we were talking about "being harrassed." Sorry. If I was being harassed, I would not need a khuk at all, as I am well versed in dealing with harassment in a peaceable fashion.
I do cut wood withy my khuks, I just take the cutting tests a bit further. I mean, we all know a khuk will cut wood, but what about metals, leather rawhide, the stuff on the edge....

Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
first thanks for takin the time to explain that so well yvsa, i have read a fair bit on different posts, its just that there are so many itl probably take me years to read em all, but they sure are intrestin.2nd ferrous wheel thanks for your input, i do appreciate ,as i am sure many others do what you do to test your khuks,i would not have the couarage to do things like that, as any damage that resulted,i feel i would not be able to adeqatly fix.as for the quip on things jumpin out, i was merely being humerous, sorry:D couldant resist.
ok so so far i am thinking keep one as yvsa said very sharp [inbetween razor and hair poppin]and keep another just with the keen edge,use both an see what i like best.hmmmm
sounds so easy when yvsa and cliff explain how to get em hair poppin sharp ???? I FEEL A HEADACHE COMIN ON.:( :) :D
 
WELL THAAAAANK YOOO FERROUS
after reading what ferrous said i sat down and had a cup of coffee,i grabbed my two khuks an decided the edge on the ankhola was keen but not overly sharp, so i thought i would try the chakma,i have tried this before with very poor or little result. so of we go rub a de rub 3 mins later same result ???? not much different if anything blunter!!!!!!! damn. i was just about to give up on the chakma when a light bulb went on upstairs????.i remembered a post i read about chakma hardness??.i picked up the other hi took out the chakma and proceeded to stroke the first one again, this time i could actualy feel somethin hapennin after strokein each side about 15-20 times each,BINGO SHARP AS hell ,I DECIDED I WOULD SEE IF IT WOULD SHAVE MY ARM AND YEP SHE SURE DOES.
well i then took both chakmas an got my trusty little file an ran it over them both ,the first one i had used was marked quite easily, the second one the file sorta skated across unless i put hard pressure, even then not much impression.SO YOU CAN GET RAZOR SHARP KHUKS WHITH THE CHAKMA. if it is hardened properly.
i reckon this is so important that i would like to see bill make a very big point of it with the kamis, cos lets face it whats the point of having a chakma that dont do what its supposed to.
i think this just goes to show the importance of the posts and threads on this forum, they encouraged me to try again. THANKS ALL AND MOST OF ALL THANKS BILL,AND THE HI KAMIS WHO MAKE SUCH A GREAT PRODUCT.

:) :) :) I NOW HAVE ONE VERY SHARP KHUK AN ONE KEEN EDGE.ON WITH THE CHOPPIN.:D
 
In my humble opinion, any tool that requires sharpening should be sharpened according to it's intended use.
Click to expand...

It cannot be said simpler than this. Go out and play with it. If you have the wrong edge the knife will let you know when the edge starts to wave and chip. I like my big knives not-too-sharp (not quite shaving sharp) just to give the edge a longer life. This usually isn't a problem since I always have a pocket knife or SAK around to handle everything that needs a sharper edge.

n2s
 
Good show, Ghorka! I also have some chakmas of differing hardness, the smaller one I have is higher temper thatn the other.

Of the chakmas you have, which one is the hardest one? My operating theory is that the smaller or thinner the chakma is, the easier it is to temper. My thicker AK chakma is hard on the edges only, the flats are sorta soft.

Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
THE NICE HARD ONE IS BY KUMAR and is very large and thick and hard on flat as this is what i used, the edges even more so.
the soft one surprisingly by bura.
as i stated before this, to me a newbiethis fatal flaw in the chakma supplied with the khuk,can be, and is very offputting, as i was following the posts by more experienced khuk users and sharpeners, an gettin nowhere with the chakma and had given up in disgust,at the results. it was only by sheer goodfortune, and of course reading a post here,that i tried again. so all you newbies, an some oldies take note the chakma works a treat, but only if its hardened properly in the first place, .regards to all ghorka:D :) :) :) :)
ALSO A NOTE THE KARDA BY KUMA WAS VERY HARD ALSO, and so was harder to sharpen but once sharp great.
AGAIN THE KARDA BY BURA SOFT,very easy to sharpen.
 
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