How Sharp?

[BePrepared]

Direct from Busse, how sharp are their knives?

I am TERRIBLE at sharpening, so i'd prefer to have shaving sharp edges direct from the maker.

Is that what i can expect?

 

[bobbystoney]

It fluctuates but the general feeling is that it is getting better than it was a few years ago.

Also, if you get it done by Beef, chances are, it's going to be pretty dang sharp.

 

[BePrepared]

if i were to request special attention to sharpness, is that likely to produce a better result?

So far everything i've seen leads me to believe that they are highly responsive to that type of thing, and i've heard it mentioned that asking to have it come "razor" sharp is possible...

I'm getting a satin MUK that will be used as a skinner, so sharpth is VERY important on that one

 

[Feezle]

My TGLB wasnt very sharp. Not sure how much of it had to do with edge geometry though.

 

[PeterPHWS]

The new steps of signing off who did the edge certainly have produced some happy Hogs from the feedback on here :thumbup:

Beef seems to have "nailed it" for regular hair poppin results that guys have commented on ... but the others still have these "skillz" ...

In many ways the blades at the time of the Skinny Ash lead to the development of my own sharpening skills ... although the really old blades were some of my sharpest ... my Basic 9's must have been done by Jerry ... and despite his claims of being challenged on sharpening ... he definately overcame the challenge on those ... and my DFLE was done by Dan and that edge was so sharp it made me want to see how long it would last without redoing it ... it lasted a year ... and knocked on the head any doubts I had from reports of SR77 being a bit lacking in edge retention. This made me wonder if we were changing the angles on the blades in error ... that basically the more robust angles made the most of the steel ... that was a good step up on the learning ladder for me ... :thumbup:

Getting a new knife though that is just middle level on the edge is not the same compared to the thrill of realising you have one that is hair poppin sharp ... :thumbup:

So good luck on getting one like that ...

 

[AZTimT]

if i were to request special attention to sharpness, is that likely to produce a better result?

It can't hurt. The blades sharpened by Garth and Beef have been the sharpest hair popping factory edges for me.

 

[Al-Sheikh]

(Almost) all knives I got directly from the shop during the last years have been sharp enough for my taste. Some older models as well as the KZII needed special attention. Every knive needs to be re-sharpened from time to time, so maybe you should sharpen your sharpening skills no matter how the knives come to you from the shop. Get a leather strop and some compound for the convex edges and a Spyderco Sharpmaker, EdgePro or Wicked Edge for the v-edges. These methods are fool proof. I can tell because it works for me

 

[BePrepared]

I can put a shaving edge on a convexed knife just fine, but i invariably make the finish look BAD in the process. I use a "Work Sharp" to resharpen, and there's no way to use it on hollow ground or wide blades without scarring up the finish

 

[ChristoDart]

Beef!

 

[Lycosa]

All my Busse's were GTG. My PS is my sharpest Busse so far.

 

[madfordiving]

In general Busse kin blades not only need sharpening but they need reprofiling. That for me doesn't take anything from
the knife quality itself but I sugest you find a sharpening service near you region preferably with belt grinder so they can do convex.
If you want to experiment and you have a power drill a vice and the pad that takes velcro sanpaper you can do it your self, refrence the YT vid Gavcoo sharpening you'll get the bacic idea
I did my self my SY DF and loved it, it holds a better edge and cuts alot better.
Suprizing better edge retention occured I believe because the burned stell was removed from the edge that is why I sugest resharpening in any case

 

[RedbeAR15]

I can put a shaving edge on a convexed knife just fine, but i invariably make the finish look BAD in the process. I use a "Work Sharp" to resharpen, and there's no way to use it on hollow ground or wide blades without scarring up the finish

Get a strop my man. Get a strop. A little practice and you will be teaching all your friends

 

[RedbeAR15]

In general Busse kin blades not only need sharpening but they need reprofiling

I disagree wholeheartedly. Keep your knife sharp by stropping after each use and you will never have to reprofile unless you neglect what has been said or you hit a rock or nail

Traditional sharpening is not what it takes with a Busse

 

[resinguy]

I disagree wholeheartedly. Keep your knife sharp by stropping after each use and you will never have to reprofile unless you neglect what has been said or you hit a rock or nail

Traditional sharpening is not what it takes with a Busse

To each, his own. It's all well and good that you have been happy with your Busse knives as received, while others may well have different preferences. I have reprofiled (thinned) many of my Bussekin blades: CGFBM, Ruck, Waki, NMFBM, FBM LE, HRLM, GW, others no doubt, and returned the TTKZ to Garth for similar improvement.

 

[bo36]

My Magnum Bear Cub arrived sharpish, but not what I'd call sharp. I then took it on a creek clean up and cut loose about 8 foot of heavy duty tarp and that pretty much made it duller than Okie reparte (born and raised). I lovingly worked it on the DMT and some Ozark rods and it will now shave a cat's tail to o'possum specs if need be. Just a side note....I was a bit disappointed in how it dulled out but I gotta say, I'm loving this little fixed blade pocket knife, now that I've confidence in my sharpening abilities with Busse/INFI it's become a favorite.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Some of my factory edges have been shaving sharp, some not.

I rarely leave any facotory edge, from any company stock.

My KZ II took some serious work at the tip. From the belly back was shaving sharp, if a bit obtuse. However, in a knife like that I expect a more obtuse factory edge.

BAD? Tiny wire edge on my first, which was perfect (meant I could strop it for a minute, and it was super sharp).

CGASH? Pretty darned sharp.

SS? Might just be the sharpest factory edge from Busse I have received. (oops, I forgot the Muck and CABS, both laser sharp from the factory).

The only Infi that I have received too dull to cut paper, was not a factory edge. It had been convexed, and was in great need of some tlc on the strop.

Sharpest though, was a FBMLE, customized by Bill Siegle. That sucker had an edge on it! Nasty sharp edge.

 

[BePrepared]

I wish Ban was still doing sharpening. I'd send my AK to him to get it all stupid sharp and whatnot

 

[3one5]

I reprofiled my 711 becouse when I got it it felt sharp but I coundn't even cut a pice of paper with how fat the convexed edge was. I did some chopen to see how that was and was not happy. I then reprofiled it to 25 degs each side with my smith set up (like the lanksy). Now it shaves hair and chop great. I maintain it with a strop so after a wile it has started to become convexed. Just what works for me and I probly only have $40 invested into sharpening. Sometimes the guys at work ask me to sharpen there knives after they see how sharp mine are. I bring in my stuff and show them how then let them do it. It's being one with the blade I know love the edge I can put on and all knife guys should. Isit it part of it.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

(all angle measurements given are 'per side')


by reprofile I think madfordiving meant thin the edge, not realign or repair it. The edges are shaving at the very cutting edge, but they have a lot of extra metal behind them that may not be ideal for performance.

Two examples I can give are the KZII and the BOSS jack, both had heavy convex edges. I could shave with both, but the second you try to cut a peice of cardboard or sink it into wood you find the knife slamming to a stop before biting in very deep. Thats because the edges were at above .045" thickness. 1/16" behind the edge the KZII was .073" thick - (1/16" thick 1/16" in from the edge). So, thinning it down with a 24 degree primary and an 18 degree relief you get this:

Did it need to be reprofiled to work? no. Did it need it to work a lot better? yes.

The BOSS jack I don't have measurements on, but it had an overly thick edge and what could be regarded as an overly heavy convex grind. I like the fat convex main grind because it adds weight to a very compact knife, it has higher chopping ability than any other knife I've handled of it's size. Again, a 24 degree primary with an 18 degree relief. I brought both edges down to .035" thickness right behind the primary. Theres no reason for these to be any thicker than that, even if I plan on beating on them. The CABS below it was perfect straight from the shop. It came with a 19-21 degree bevel and was .020" thick behind the cutting edge.

 

[kimberfan]

mouse pad + sand paper to 2k grit and you cant go wrong.