How Should This Olive Wood Be Cut???

Phil Dwyer

Phil Dwyer

Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
3,494
Hi Folks -- Anyone have any ideas how to best cut olive wood to get some handle material? -- Thanks, Phil

attachment.php
 
I would cut the "fins" off and see what you have left, then maybe cut in half lengthwise depending on how it looks. Mark from Burl source could give you some ideas as well.
 
Cut the pieces about 1"+ thick, and wider and longer than you need.
It will look good cut almost any way (flat, rift or quartersawn)
If you cut it for end grain you will lose most of it to cracking while it dries.
Seal all the end grain thoroughly.
Set it aside for 5 years. Then cut a piece in half to check the inside.
The center 3rd will look darker (still wet)
Set it aside again and check it again in a couple years.

The good thing that happens while it sits is that it colors up into contrasting colors.
The bad thing is it takes forever to dry.
If you leave it in thick chunks, it never dries.
It is prone to cracking at the end grain.

When it is finally dry, it is beautiful and polishes up like glass.
I think it is worth the effort as long as you are not in a hurry.
 
Dang, I've been waiting for five years to come across some. I guess I can wait another. I got the piece from a sawyer friend. It looks like he's sealed the ends with anchorseal. I'll ask him how long it's been sitting already. Thanks for the tips, although I don't know quite how to go about cutting in any of those ways. How do you flat, rift or quarter saw a twisting, spiraling piece of wood that looks like a pile of guts?!
 
Make up a cradle from some scrap that will allow you a flat surface on the bottom and a straight edge for the fence, clamp or screw your block to it and make the first couple of cuts on the bandsaw. Once you have a flat surface or two on the block, the rest is fairly easy.
 
Cut in the same direction the grain has grown in as that's the way it will dry. In other words if you saw straight up on the spirol grain the resulting pieces will warp to that shape. One can fix warped wood from drying defects, but never from growth direction mistakes.
 
I use a chainsaw to cut lengh wise into 2-3" widths that can then be cut down on a bandsaw, Some tricks, use sandbags or something to hold it steady on the ground or on some boards, dont cut all the way through in the first pass, cut about 90% though this way the log stays stable as you make your slices, also, mark you cut with a string line or other straight edge for you to follow. Looking at the log I would roll it to the right and then start my cuts. Last buy a new chain, this cutting is pretty hard on chains and dangerous, make you job as easy a possible.
 
Phil,
This is what I would probably do.
Red are the 1st cuts to get manageable pieces.
Blue are to give an idea how I would orient the slabs.
Another option would be to go at a right angle to the blue lines.

You have to watch the wood as you make each cut and feel free to do something different whenever you want to change the look.

olive.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top