How Tight on your Sheaths

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,177
This may be a hard post to answer but I have made sheaths that need a little wet forming to relax the leather so the sheath isnt too tight.
I have made some that I wish were a little tighter BUT...
the knife doesnt fall out.

What is a good standard to go by?

All I have made are pouch sheaths to this point but I will try other styles once I get a little more comfortable with the general fit I am asking about here.
Here is my first crossdraw attempt. Loop will fit a 1 3/4" belt.

Also - if the sheath looks like it needs to be about 1/16" tighter is it better to cut a new welt or sand the sheath smaller?

Hope theres not too much asked but I have misse you ladies :D
 
IG, You city boys........ How can something that is constantly on full auto be tight? As for sheaths, snug but not to the point you need to grab it with the free hand in order to remove the knife unless you spend alot of time standing on your head.......
 
I am mainly worried as to how loose the sheath will become over say a year of use......

I can turn them all upside down and shake and the knife stays put. Guess I am doing pretty good....
 
yeah not to tight
I wet mold tight as I can.
then dry completely fitting it as it drys 1 or two time, it shrinks up a bit and then adding the welt loosens it up some, you adjust the thickness of it to help you.
,, if you can and have the chance always add a finger guard lock in the welt.
the big thing I think is if the knife isn't loose in the sheath it wears (loosens) less anyway.
 
thanks guys......I need all the help I can get :D
 
yeah Dan...whats a finger guard lock????? ;)
 
Nice looking sheath,

I think what Dan is talking about is a little bit of a notch or catch in the welt for finger groves, gaurds, ext. to catch on when the knife is fully seated in the sheath, at least that's what I do. It doesn't take much though.

I like a sheath that is tight enough that the knife doen't rattle or move when you shake it, that means fairly tight. I also do a hot wax dip so the leather is a little stiffer than just oiling it and seams to last for a long time without streching.
 
Terry_Dodson said:
Dan how do you "add a finger guard lock in the welt" ?
Click to expand...

Terry here you go :)
sheath21.JPG

for the full boat
www.knivesby.com/dan-sheath-tutor-1.html

chuck B at WRT makes an adjustable welt also
see here
http://www.knivesby.com/adj-welt.html
 
ahhh, i think i see now. you just poke the hole with a hole punch to make a more rounded hole thatn cutting it with the nife right?
 
Terry_Dodson said:
ahhh, i think i see now. you just poke the hole with a hole punch to make a more rounded hole thatn cutting it with the nife right?
Click to expand...
I do on some of them :)
 
Pretty cool tutorial Dan, and a first class sheath, it gives me an idea or two I want to try out. Have you ever used a sharpened finishing nail to drill the holes? I like the results better than when I was drilling.
 
wait a minit, how'd you do the braiding on the top strap? did you cut and then glue it back together? :confused:
 
Will52100 said:
wait a minit, how'd you do the braiding on the top strap? did you cut and then glue it back together? :confused:
Click to expand...

No just two slits in the leather Will. look at the thread I just posted on it..
 
Here is a pic of an IWB carry just finished for a customer.
8-10oz just a tad on the heavy side for a molded sheath but nice and snug. Easy draw but with that weight leather it will stay put for years.
You can get a better look using 7-8oz leather and using a finish that stiffens the leather. There is a fine line between stiff and a cracked sheath...practice on some scrap.
One tip...On the back side of the sheath after sewing Etc wet the center and press in a finger width groove down the center. Acts as a tightner...Use good quality tooling leather.
 
I'm no expert, but I've made more sheaths than knives so far :)

I like veg tanned leather, and I always wrap the knife in plastic wrap after wetting down the leather. I get 8-9oz leather, and no seconds. Although I've not made a sheath in over 5 years, I use one weekly that I made 10 years ago. It is always tight, and I would throw it away if it wasn't. I buy some knives, too, and the sheath is very important. I think somebody that loves leather better than steel should maybe specialize in this field, don't you? It's a whole different ball game......

I know about the imports, and the $100 jobs don't cut it. So, is there a sheath maker on the forum?

Mike
 
Warrant said:
I'm no expert, but I've made more sheaths than knives so far :)

I like veg tanned leather, and I always wrap the knife in plastic wrap after wetting down the leather. I get 8-9oz leather, and no seconds. Although I've not made a sheath in over 5 years, I use one weekly that I made 10 years ago. It is always tight, and I would throw it away if it wasn't. I buy some knives, too, and the sheath is very important. I think somebody that loves leather better than steel should maybe specialize in this field, don't you? It's a whole different ball game......

I know about the imports, and the $100 jobs don't cut it. So, is there a sheath maker on the forum?

Mike
Click to expand...

there is a lot of them here Mike..
I agree vegie tanned leather is the way to go. I use 10-12 oz, it's harder to use but I don't have to worry about it after..
I don't bill myself as a sheath maker but it seems that I'm having way more knives sent to me for sheaths to be made for than knives I'm making this last year or so,
 
I think somebody that loves leather better than steel should maybe specialize in this field, don't you? It's a whole different ball game......
Click to expand...

I don't think any of us who make sheaths for a living necessarily love leather better.....but there are a few of us around who specialize in leatherwork anyway and a few like Dan who pretty well are strictly sheath makers.
Some of us are:
Sandy Morrissey, Dave Lifter, Mike Bartol, Gary Graley, Duane Puckett, Chris Kravitz, myself, and a few others are makers of leather sheaths. As to specializing in just sheaths - well as one who does and has done leather work for a living for many a year - sole source of income - making just sheaths would leave you starving, just not enough business in sheaths alone to make a real living at it, so those of us who it for a full time living also make other things: holsters belts, bags, etc.

BTW - My very good friend, Sandy Morrisey, who at 83 years young, is still plugging away has made over 10,000 sheaths in 58 years. Myself I've been doing it for 43 and don't even come close at around a 1/3 of that.

As to keeping it snug - the way I do it is by skiving the welt until the bloody thing fits snug yet will draw easily (this usually takes me around two hours to do it right - proper fit is something I pride myself on).
Much of course is really dependent on the style of knife and the style of sheath and the final "hardening".
The common pouch style sheath that wraps around the handle as well as covering the blade, is the easiest and best system for long term retention, but even it must be fit both to the blade and the grip properly.
A sheath that covers the blade only is a whole nother ball game and even though you can turn one of mine upside down and the knife will not fall out unless vigorously shaken, I still highly recommend a secondary retention system.
Double edged blades with no ricasso are the ultimate challenge but can be done, but it sure can turn you're hair gray! :mad:
 
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