How to avoid this?

I'm new to this forum and love it *but I'll throw my 2 cents worth in. I've been a tool maker for the aluminum can industry for a few years. I've done a lot of super finishing on dies.
The acid in your finger print can etch your polished blades always wash your hands.
I've seen carbide dies scrapped from fingerprints. Oranges, fried chicken etc. will etch your blades. My best result to keep them from etching after polishing is wipe it clean with acetone and oil it down with baby oil. WD 40 will evaporate. This is a good way to store your knives after baby oil store in freezer bag.
 
John White said:
Peter,

You've gotten some good tips. After taping both handle end and blade off, I'll clean the intersection off with WD-40 and a soft cloth (well laundered flannel) covered square toothpick cut at a chisel angle.

When you then pull the tape, there's still a tiny line of glue to clean up. Try using the cloth covered scraper or the square toothpick cut at a chisel angle and lots of WD-40, but pull the clean-up length-wise down the blade.

Any tiny scratches are actually about the size of your blade finish. The WD-40 will float the glue. Acetone evaporates too fast, and won't "float."

John
Click to expand...
That bolded bit needs to be repeated........lengthwise will blend right in with your hand sanded finish.
Darcy:)
 
I believe a scraper made from micarta, in the size needed with work best with the WD40 and one of those soft blue towels. Frank
 
Great thread, I suffer from this problem sometimes as well. I always thought it was some kind of haze left over from epoxy that didn't get properly wiped away, but maybe it is super fine scratching. Either way, I hate it when it happens. Going to try some of the methods discussed here.
 
I am a newbie so I tend to learn many lessons the hard way and I'll share one here. Never put you roll of tape anywhere that it can pick up grit on the edges. I taped up one of my first blades, glued and finished the scales, and when I pulled the tape the blade was scratched everywhere the edge of the tape came in contact with the blade.

I have since started to wrap with paper towel before applying the tape (also bought a new roll of tape and store it where it can't pick up grit), but I still had trouble at the tape to blade junction when cleaning the excess epoxy that squeezes out from under the scales. Just that little sticky area on the edge of the tape wants to pick up grit from everywhere. Then like has been already said if you clean "against the grain" of the blade finish you run the chance of fine scratches like those shown. I am slowly getting better at it, but there is still much to learn as far as eliminating the problem.

Jeff
 
Good high purity Acetone and medical gauze has always worked good for me to remove excess epoxy after it drying.
 
Well, I don't remember where I saw this, but what I do is fit the handles to the blade with the pins, one at a time. When the handle is fitted where I want it, I put vaseline, diaper creme, etc., on the tang and the front of the scales. The vaseline or diaper creme won't etch the blade while the epoxy sets. Once it sets, I can remove any excess from the front with my fingers, then a little acetone will clean up the vaseline/creme/whatever. Super clean. The drawback I've found is that I have to make sure I don't smudge the resist when I remove the scale to apply the epoxy.
 
I only have 14 knifes done but I think the problem needs to be addressed while the epoxy is still liquid/soft. I apply the epoxy just short of the front of the handles as it will squeeze out and then once the handles are in the vices, I use alcohol and q tips to remove the excess epoxy then a 45 degree brass bar. If any is remaining after drying, the brass bar gets it easily.
 
I use the wood craft stick scraper method, and clean with those little square make up remover pads. I clean with mineral spirits then clean with 90% rubbing alcahol.

I did hear of a maker that did a dry fit with his scales in place, he then painted the area with fingernail polish. let dry then glued scales on. Once the scales were set and epoxy cured, he removed the fingernail polish with acetone. Very similar on how you would use it as a resist on etching damascus. I have never tried it as Im happy with my method, just felt it was worth mentioning.

God Bless
Mike
 
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