How to Blacken those obvious pocket clips that are sliver in color?

how 'bout muriatic acid or ferric chloride. those will darken stainless like vinegar darkens carbon right?
 
I had a knife sheath that was very "loud", due to it's location on the pack and being kydex. My easy solution was to super glue a similar type/color of fabric to the outside of the sheath. This could work for your knife clip if you pick a discreet fabric and color.
 
31xJnkt8lxL.jpg
 
Here, I just did another one so it could be seen on a polished stainless surface instead of bead blasted---pulled out an old favorite Spyderco.
The stuff has the consistency of Vaseline, so it's very easy to control and isn't spilling on stuff while you're working. The picture you see of the clip and screws covered in the stuff was taken immediately after I finished applying and then went and washed the acid off my hands--it turned dark grey while I was rubbing it on with a Q-tip and black during the 45 seconds I was getting the camera. Once I'd taken the shots, I washed the stuff in baking soda/water and water to neutralize the acid, washed again in plain water (keep an eye on those tiny screws) and then coated with mineral oil. In the morning, the reaction will have stabilized and the mineral oil can be cleaned off.

Do NOT use this stuff as though it were phosphoric acid and leave it on the steel for hours at a time. It is HIGHLY corrosive and is setting to work immediately. Five minutes after application, you need to be in the process of neutralizing it.

Surface prep was again a rub-down with 0000 steel wool and wash with mineral spirits. There are a couple of lighter spots on it---if you want consistent black you need to heat the pieces up to about 150 to 175 degrees before application, and doing clips you'll have to move fast because it'll lose that heat fast. I've been happy enough with my "charcoal" color results to not put the effort into heating them. It DOES work, though. :) The last picture of the colored clip back on the knife has a weird artifact in it, where it looks like there's a bright spot between the two screws. No idea why it photographed that way--that spot isn't there in real life.



If you like, I can actually pull out the light box when I get home from work tomorrow and show you what the final finish looks like. If you've seen all you need to see then I'll save the effort. :D
 
Last edited:
3M Stair Step tape, in black. I've used this product for several years now and it works fantastic. The adhesive they use is some strong stuff and no matter how many pulls, I have not had this stuff to roll up and come off. I have around 25 clipped folders and every one of the clips are covered with this. Another step I have started taking is to use some flat black auto touch up paint I have and give the tape a light coat once it is on the clip. For some reason the tape has a little shine and the flat black dampens it down nicely.
 
Tape is great unless you carry the way I do---IWB. If so, it'll tear the hell out of your belts.
 
Nope, stair step tape would not be ideal for IWB carry! As far as black clips on jeans go, I've found that while still a contrast it is much more subdued than the shiny clips.

Another thing I do, guess I have a phobia, is to shorten my clips to about 1 or 1.5 inches in length. At the same time I turn them into foldover clips that place the entire knife into my pocket, leaving only that 1 to 1.5 inch of clip the only visible part. Of those 25 folders with clips I mentioned, 18 of them have the foldover clip, whether it came with one, was retrofitted with a commercial/STR clip, or the original clip was turned into a foldover.
 
Fastest, cheapest, easiest, way that will last and is simple to remove or replace: Plasti-Dip. Use the spray to control thickness with light coats. /thread.
 
t1mpani said:
Here, I just did another one so it could be seen on a polished stainless surface instead of bead blasted---pulled out an old favorite Spyderco.
The stuff has the consistency of Vaseline, so it's very easy to control and isn't spilling on stuff while you're working. The picture you see of the clip and screws covered in the stuff was taken immediately after I finished applying and then went and washed the acid off my hands--it turned dark grey while I was rubbing it on with a Q-tip and black during the 45 seconds I was getting the camera. Once I'd taken the shots, I washed the stuff in baking soda/water and water to neutralize the acid, washed again in plain water (keep an eye on those tiny screws) and then coated with mineral oil. In the morning, the reaction will have stabilized and the mineral oil can be cleaned off.

Do NOT use this stuff as though it were phosphoric acid and leave it on the steel for hours at a time. It is HIGHLY corrosive and is setting to work immediately. Five minutes after application, you need to be in the process of neutralizing it.

Surface prep was again a rub-down with 0000 steel wool and wash with mineral spirits. There are a couple of lighter spots on it---if you want consistent black you need to heat the pieces up to about 150 to 175 degrees before application, and doing clips you'll have to move fast because it'll lose that heat fast. I've been happy enough with my "charcoal" color results to not put the effort into heating them. It DOES work, though. :)



If you like, I can actually pull out the light box when I get home from work tomorrow and show you what the final finish looks like. If you've seen all you need to see then I'll save the effort. :D
Click to expand...

This mehiod take the prize for me from t1mpani's :thumbup::D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top