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How to Buy a Suit?

Joined
Sep 15, 1999
Messages
3,319
I'd much rather be asking about knives, tents, tools or things titanium--but I'm not. I'm asking about suits. I don't own one, and it's probably time that I do. I only want one. So it has to work for both winter and summer. I'm also thinking I should get a versatile color such as dark gray. If I'm going to do this, I want to get something decent. Can I get a decent suit for $500? Any thoughts or advice on how and where to buy a suit?

Scott
 
There's lots of ways to do it. You can go to Nordstroms or Robinsons May and get a decent suit, but get raped on the price. You can find a decent tailor and have one custom made, but be prepared to cry when you find out how much it will cost. You could go to Sears if you really want a suit but don't care what it looks like.

My advice? Go to the Men's Warehouse near you. For all the corny ads with George Zimmer in them, this place is the right place. You can get a nice name brand suit for a reasonable price and you'll likely find their customer service to be most helpful. I have a beautiful Ralph Lauren 100% wool grey pinstripe suit that I bought there for around $299.00! Original retail was over $600.00. I used to have a nice Oscar DeLaRenta suit that I bought there for around the same price that was a much nicer suit than the Perry Ellis suit I paid over $600.00 for at Nordstroms. Unfortunately the Perry Ellis and DeLaRenta were eaten by moths!!! So make sure that you protect your new suit with plenty of cedar around it to keep the moths away.

Keep in mind that unless you're really lucky and it fits perfectly off the rack (rare) that you will need alterations done. This is another place where Men's Warehouse rocks. They do on site alterations to really get the fit right. They charge for the alterations and in my experience it will run you around $75.00 in addition to the purchase price of the suit, but that's true of any other suit you would buy as well. They will also re-do the alterations later at no charge should your dimensions (waistline) change. They also offer free lifetime pressing at any Men's Warehouse which is handy. You'll also find that they will offer good recommendations on things like matching shirts and ties.

I buy nearly all my business atire from them these days. Good prices and great service. Highly recommended.

John
 
Just asking, are you going anywhere for holiday in Asia or near there?
My neighbour from the UK visited me while i was back home in Malaysia and i brought him to a tailor. Very experienced tailor. Classically trained and knows men's clothes. Superb cloth and cutting. It's so nice that my neighbour doesn't want to wear it to just any occasion. He said he'll only wear it for really special occasions. Best thing about it is it's a fraction of the price of store bought suits with cheap cloth.

A tailor made suit is really something different. A good tailor can make a fat slob look smart. The fitting is important, some people have uneven shoulders and this is one of the disadvantages of buying ready made. You can't alter that properly.

Anyway, i don't think i've been much help but if i were to get another suit it will still be navy blue. But make sure it's really really dark...almost black.
 
I second Mens Wearhouse. I'm a big guy, and found several suits in the 200 -300 range. Once, in a pinch, and very poor, around age 19, I found a nice suit at the Goodwill. Saw some good suits at Burlington Coat Factory.
 
I will put in a third vote for Men's Wearhouse. Actually I just got back from buying a second suit form them for upcoming job interviews. I think that they make a pretty good compromise between good service and price. I bought my first suit from them four years ago when I graduated from HS, and it still fits and looks great. Well, ok maybe I need to tke it back and have it adjusted just a bit, but hey it's free now!

They do have a nice selection, but honestly the best thing about them is that they have good help available. I am pretty clueless as to what shirts and ties go together with a suit. They have people there who know how to make you look good, and make alterations to your suit so it fits right.
 
Eric hits on a good point. The second suit. If you're wearing a suit to a job interview, you'll likely have more than one interview if the job's important enough to need a suit at the interview. Having a second suit allows you to show up at the second interview with a different suit on. This sends a message that you don't just have an "interview" suit, but have at least two, maybe more and that dressing nicely to present the proper image isn't a "special occasion" to you.

Suits are all about politics and presence. When you wear one, you're sending a message. Most of the time when I'm working, I wear a button down oxford style shirt open collared. If the day will entail higher level meetings and travel with an executive, but not top level meetings, an upgrade to a sport coat and tie is in order. When it's meetings with a potential new vendor or national sales meeting, it's suit time for me.

I think if you want one for the occasional funeral or formal occasion, one suit will do. If you're looking at needing various levels of dress for business, you need a minimum of two suits and two sports coats with a variety of ties, slacks and shows. With this combo I can easily do a week long trade show and cover every situation.

John
 
I don't like Men's Warehouse. I did not find quality suits that fit me there.

If you are of truly average size, then it is great, and I endorse them wholeheartedly.

I am 5'6", 165 lbs, broad shoulders, and 16.5" neck/32" sleeves. The suits that they had in my size were a joke.

I am a HUGE believer in Nordstrom's/Nordstrom's Rack. I bought an exceptional Joseph Abboud navy chalk stripe about 3 years ago at the Rack for $425.00. Simply a bargain at the price. I have been working with the same salesperson at Nordstrom's for over 8 years, and to say that he gives excellent service and advice would be an understatement. Most of the salespeople in Men's Warehouse, when I go in there, are new, or I have not seen before, but they seem to have a large turnover. It is a real comfort to work with someone who knows your likes/dislikes and feels comfortable enough to make suggestions.

I am also very partial to the Nordstrom store in Seattle. That is another part of it. I can get great service here in SoCal, go up to San Francisco, or Seattle, and get a pretty comparable level of service.

As far as a one and only suit goes. 100% Wool gabardine, or twill Fabric, possibly medium weight flannel. The first two travel better. Navy, Dark Grey or Olive drab depending on weight and height. Two or three button, single or no vent. This will allow you to get other slacks that go with the jacket.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
While I generally find Nordstroms to be overpriced, but have a high level of service, I do like the Nordstrom's Rack stores. When I replaced my two moth eaten suits last year (say goodbye to over a grand!) I bought the above noted Ralph Lauren from Men's Warehouse. I also bought a John J. Nordstrom Signature suit in Super 110 wool. I think it is the finest suit I've owned to date.

I got it altered at Men's Warehouse:)

John
 
Scott Ridgeway said:
Steven,

What does the color have to do with weight and height?

Scott

As far as weight goes, darker colors tend to be "slimming" colors. If you're a bit on the heavy side, I imagine a darker suit would...suit you better...<groan>.

I'm kind of wondering about an OD suit though - I don't think I've ever seen one, and I'm curious as to how it looks on anyone other than a military officer...:)

Matthew
 
I'm kind of wondering about an OD suit though

Depending on the shade, a lighter olive , khaki, or tan are popular colors for summer weight suits, and I've seen some slimmer guys do well with olive-y looking suits during other months.

Lots of good advice here. Depending on where you live you might also have access to Jos. A. Banks, which is a chain of discount stores with a good range, kind of like Men's Wearhouse. Heck, once you get your size down, try eBay for Brooks Brothers and other high end stuff! You can't go wrong with a basic blue or grey pinstripe, a white button down collar short, and a subdued red tie for starters. A few more shirts(blue, and maybe a thin candy stripe in red and blue) and a blue tie and you can go just about everywhere.

At a lower price point there's always JC Penney, too: they have two house brands, TownCraft and Stafford(the "better" of the two), that offer mix and match suit jackets and pants, which is good if you are truly hard to fit, and a decent line of dress shirts. Penney's has a sale apparently every 32 minutes, so you can really stretch your dollar if you get them at the right time.

There's an important point made here, and one which I ignored for many years: quality costs more because it's often worth it. A better quality suit, made with better materials, just fits better, looks better on you, and usually will wear longer than a Haband $99 deal. Sales people who know their stuff can often make a huge difference, as can a good tailor, but you'll usually only find this sort of expertise in the better stores. It is worth the investment to get at least one really good suit, short, and tie. Same with a good blue blazer and overcoat if you're in the kind of place that has wet and cold weather.

When I started working in the "real" world in 1982, suits and or dress shirts and ties were pretty much universal for certain kinds of work. First we started seeing dress down Fridays, then dress down summers, then IT and support staff going casual full time. Nowadays, outside of Wall Street types and law firms(and of course others), collared shirts and chinos are pretty much standard almost wherever I go, so factor that into your clothing budget down the road.

Also, do yourself a favor and get a *good* pair of shoes, something comfortable but appropriate for a suit. Money spent on shoes is usually worth it as classic, high quality shoes can last 20 years with resoling and regular care and never really go out of style(I'm thinking cap toe oxfords, brogues, lace up shoes). Not a bad investment!
 
Okay, here's what my Grand Father taught me: business cut (not current fashion), dark gray or dark blue, Italian cloth, cuffs that have to be finished/adjusted, don't unpick the coat pockets (leaving them sewn up keeps the shape), single breasted (never double), and buy some shoes at the same time.
 
I'll chime in with the others on Men's Wearhouse. I've also had good luck at Nordstrom, but wait until they have a sale because their normal prices are a bit high.

Another place to look is some of the outlet stores, such as Brooks Brothers. I was able to get pants and suit jackets separately with BB, which is a huge plus for me because my waist and chest measurements are over 10" in difference (typical suits account for about 6", such as 36" waist/42" jacket). Joseph A . Banks also sells suits this way, but they can be pricey if they are not on sale.

Go for a midweight 100% wool suit, higher threadcount the better, 3 button jacket. If you are only going to get one suit, get it in navy - goes well for everything - interviews, weddings, funerals.

Good luck!
 
Another vote for Men's Warehouse. In my prime, they fit me for a suit with a 50tall to 36 pants, and tailored everything to look nice, all on a poor man's budget. Alas now, the waist has expanded a little bit. They will take care of you, almost in an old-school kind of way.
 
Some great advice here about buying a decent suit. I'd just like to add one more thing about WEARING it that my wife taught me the day I met her (she was a fashion designer at the time):

NEVER wear a shirt color that is darker than the suit color. You'll look like a used car salesman from the Eighties or a hit man for the mob.
 
I will offer possibly a different view on this subject. Being someone that lives in a suit 5 days a week, I will say a few things about them and the success that I have found in a particular brand and also 2 different stores to get them from.

I live outside Nashville, so te store names may be different, but the brand and the "lines" of their suits will be similar across the US.

If you TRULY want it to last, spend some money on a suit. Just like you do with your knives, guns,lights, etc...money spent on these things are an investment.

I have bought three different suit types/brands/quality and I can say (with NO doubt) that my nicest suit was the one that I paid the most for. I have been wearing these particular suits for 3 years, off and on (I have 6 to choose from - so it's not the same suit everyday) 5 days a week.

Hartt, Shafner and Marxk (sp?) is aline that I can highly reccomend. Particularly their "Gold Trumpeter" line. The (full price) run around $800 but when you follow the sales, you can get them for around $500. They have 3 lines; standard, professional and gold trumpeter. Any of them will be great suits, classic lines and fabrics and not trnedy-type suits (you know the ones that have 5 or 6 buttons) that will not really be in style in 2 years. That way, when you spend $400-600 on a suit that will last you 5-7 years, they will still be in style.

My other pet peave is when people spend good money on a decent suit and have a terrible shirt and tie OR awful shoes. Now, all that being said, I don't feel that the clothes you wear determine the type of person you are on the INSIDE - however, our society DOES judge a lot of people from how they dress. Plus, why spend a couple hundred dollars on something and ignore the good accessories that can REALLY make a suit look good.

Just my $.02 worth. Oh yeah, in Nashville, I buy my suits at Parisians and Dillards. You may have one or both of those. Nordstroms is similar, as Bon Marcie and Bon Ton. Hope that helps and good luck in your suit quest.

BTW - depending on your age, grey can sometimes look extreme. A classic black suit is tough to beat, appropriate for weddings, funerals and job interviews. Plus, a black suit can virtually match ANYTHING that "she" might be wearing and can have almost any color go with it as far as shirt and tie.

David
 
Here's what I've learned after 20 years of buying/wearing suits at all price points:

Wool fibers--The best suits use long wool fibers, up to 12" or even 14" in length. This gives the finish of the fabric a nice, smooth look. These longer fibers are stronger and will wear much longer before giving out. Cheaper suits use fibers in the 3-4" range. Longer fibers are also able to be spun more tightly, giving a better looking finish and longer wear. If you look for the difference you can tell a lot about a suit by the fibers and twist of the yarns. You spend more for the better fabric, but it resists sagging, bagging out and wearing, so in the long run helps to pay for itself. There is also a difference between the "100% Pure Wool" seal the the "100% New (virgin) Wool" that you should keep in mind.

You can find out a lot about the construction of the suit by examining the shoulders of the suit. Do they roll naturally? How well do they contour and move with your body? Do the sleeves attach smoothly or does the fit look forced or lumpy? How well do the shoulders fit in front, though the back. and at the arms? Shoulders that move with you, roll naturally and feel smoother usually have more hand tailoring in the internal construction. They will fit better, feel better and most importantly keep their shape better over time.

All the fashion houses like Ralph Lauren and Armani have suits at many different price points. The difference is in the quality of the wool fibers and finish of the fabric, and in the construction. Sometimes you can get lucky and get a really good suit for a steal, but usually the suits at discount or outlet stores are NOT the same as those sold in better stores.

I'll second or third the Nordstrom suits, especially if you can find them at the Rack or at one if the semi-annual sales. I have a formal black suit from Brooks Brothers that is nice, but I like the several Nordstrom suits better. You may not like a particular fashion trend in suits, but Nordstrom will not put poor-quality suits in their inventory. I've tried Mens Wearhouse, Dillards, and Joseph A. Banks, but return to Nordstrom because their suits last, and look better even when old.
 
FYI, I just got a call from Men's Warehouse and their annual Summer Sale starts 6/4. Me mentioned I'd get an extra 10% for being a previous customer, so perhaps you can leverage that into a slightly sweeter deal.

John
 
I'm also in the market for a new suit.
I don't often wear suits. Mostly I live in 5.11 stuff.

I find that my suit trousers (dictionary: pants) wear out fast at the crotch when my legs rub together as I walk - in fact the more expensive suits I've had have worn out faster. 5.11 'pants' wear out a bit slower than anything else I've tried.

I'm looking for a suit I that I can be reasonably active in - that can handle being hot and sweaty etc. I walk quite a bit so it is important my clothing can keep up.

Any suggestions on the fabric(s) I should ask for or avoid?

Cheers

Al
 
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