- Joined
- Jun 9, 2010
- Messages
- 700
I aaaalmost ordered a Bravo 1 about 15 minutes ago from that site... but I went with a Spyderco Civilian instead.
Enjoy your new toy.
Enjoy your new toy.
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How to care for a Bark River Bravo 1?
- Thread starter mountainman22
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2010
- Messages
- 13
Been doing some research. What's your experience with sentrysolution products and the TUF-Cloth?
My Bravo-1, like yourn, is A-2 steel. When needed, I wash sap and other crud off with lighter fluid, or WD40 if it's stubborn, then wash with HOT water and soap, then rinse with HOT water before drying with a dry dishtowel.
I don;t use any oil on mine. Two and a half years now and no problem. It is stored in its kydex sheath.
Desert ironwood is extra dense and hard. Like cocobolo and other rosewoods, it is a little oily, though not as much as the rosewoods. I would do what Big Mike said: a tad bit of wax every now and again, depending on how much you use it. Just get a nice wax like Johnsons or Minwax. There is no need for these high-dollar micro-crystalline waxes like Renaissance and others, but, they're your yen....er...I mean... dollars.
I don;t use any oil on mine. Two and a half years now and no problem. It is stored in its kydex sheath.
Desert ironwood is extra dense and hard. Like cocobolo and other rosewoods, it is a little oily, though not as much as the rosewoods. I would do what Big Mike said: a tad bit of wax every now and again, depending on how much you use it. Just get a nice wax like Johnsons or Minwax. There is no need for these high-dollar micro-crystalline waxes like Renaissance and others, but, they're your yen....er...I mean... dollars.
Here is what I use to sharpen convex-ground edges. Each piece of wood is about 3/4"x3"x11" with 7-8oz leather glued on each side. Then I tape wet/dry sandpaper to that. The two strops (green and white), are made the same way, sans sandpaper.
Side one:
Flipped over:
Side one:
Flipped over:
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2010
- Messages
- 13
Thanks for the help and guidance. I really appreciate it. I'm sure my bravo 1 will look good and perform great for a long time.
The Bravo-1 is a relatively large knife. The tang is long and the scales are thick. Of all my Barkies, the Bravo-1 fits my hand the best - in fact, it's probably the best fit ergonomically of all knives I own.
Put a nice paracord or leather lanyard on it and you can chop well with it. It's a hefty blade. If this is your first convex grind knife, it will take a little work to get used to sharpening it. For touching up, go no lower than probably 1500 grit. I use 2000 grit and then the green compound to keep mine sharp. Keep your pressure light, your angle low, and remember, as with all knives, that the belly is a double-compound angle. A little geometry is all it is. As you approach the belly, you turn the blade longitudinally and, at the same time, lift slightly to get your belly and tip sharpened correctly.
It takes practice. Nuthin's easy.....
Put a nice paracord or leather lanyard on it and you can chop well with it. It's a hefty blade. If this is your first convex grind knife, it will take a little work to get used to sharpening it. For touching up, go no lower than probably 1500 grit. I use 2000 grit and then the green compound to keep mine sharp. Keep your pressure light, your angle low, and remember, as with all knives, that the belly is a double-compound angle. A little geometry is all it is. As you approach the belly, you turn the blade longitudinally and, at the same time, lift slightly to get your belly and tip sharpened correctly.
It takes practice. Nuthin's easy.....