How to clean up an old EDC traditional -- your personal preferences/routine

Thanks for the explanation, Alan. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
I appreciated your before/after photos.

- GT
 
What a great thread. Picked up a 2013 Moore Maker Gunstock (6200GS) in Sambar Stag at our local feed store today. Still in the box, but the main blade had a little rust just above the edge, looks like someone's fingerprints. Had been there for 5 years, likely without ever being wiped or oiled. Flitz removed most of it, but there's still some surface staining. Doesn't look like it's gone through the finish, I can't feel any pitting. My normal SOP on a bicycle resto would be to use ultra-fine steel wool. Can I use that on a polished 1095 blade or will it scratch? Really nice little knife, this is one of the ones made by Queen. Can't wait to drop it in my pocket. Thanks.
 
My goal going into a rehab is to remove all repeat ALL rust and leave patina. I use very fine Emory paper - starting at 400 grit & work it up. Remove all nicks and dings from the bolsters and buff it up to like new. Lansky it up razor sharp & its fit for the pocket.
 
joeradza said:
The white vinegar reacts with the rust and makes it easier to remove with nothing more than elbow grease. Here's a before and after just using the rough side of a sponge.View attachment 1143257 View attachment 1143259
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Just don't leave it too long.
With rusty axes and hammers...ect a lot of people will use a vinegar soak and it removes all the patina and leaves the steel an ugly dull grey, that's just what happens in the the time it takes to remove that amount of rust .
With a knife that's just got a little rust I can understand it if not left too long.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Just don't leave it too long.
With rusty axes and hammers...ect a lot of people will use a vinegar soak and it removes all the patina and leaves the steel an ugly dull grey, that's just what happens in the the time it takes to remove that amount of rust .
With a knife that's just got a little rust I can understand it if not left too long.
Click to expand...
Good point. I usually start with about 5-7 minutes. That's usually enough to remove the rust I showed in my pics. I'm far from an expert or even what I would call knowledgeable. I try to emulate the Hippocratic oath "do no harm."
 
cjtamu said:
What a great thread. Picked up a 2013 Moore Maker Gunstock (6200GS) in Sambar Stag at our local feed store today. Still in the box, but the main blade had a little rust just above the edge, looks like someone's fingerprints. Had been there for 5 years, likely without ever being wiped or oiled. Flitz removed most of it, but there's still some surface staining. Doesn't look like it's gone through the finish, I can't feel any pitting. My normal SOP on a bicycle resto would be to use ultra-fine steel wool. Can I use that on a polished 1095 blade or will it scratch? Really nice little knife, this is one of the ones made by Queen. Can't wait to drop it in my pocket. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I use Flitz polish and time. Polish a few times a week, if it is surface only, it should go away.
 
Thank you, sir. Have used Flitz on it a couple of times already. There's actually the tiniest spot of rust (size of a pinprick) on the spey blade that didn't come off, can feel some slight pitting. Going to pick up some Evaporust today and see if that will come off, and maybe try on the rust patine as well.
 
cjtamu said:
Thank you, sir. Have used Flitz on it a couple of times already. There's actually the tiniest spot of rust (size of a pinprick) on the spey blade that didn't come off, can feel some slight pitting. Going to pick up some Evaporust today and see if that will come off, and maybe try on the rust patine as well.
Click to expand...
The thing to keep in mind, is that there is no such thing as removing a pit. You can only remove surrounding metal down to the level of the bottom of the pit. That's how abrasives "remove" scratches.
 
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