How to design a fighting knife?

[Hengelo_77]

Look at WW1 trench knives. They developed in the most extreem situation people used knives as weapons in recent times.
6 inch blades, longer knives were hard to move in confined spaces and heavy blades are slow.

 

[Way-Barney]

I think that Ergonomics is pretty important, but need to be closely related to the weight, design of the knife, skill and strength of the operator and expected circumstance of use. . In a professional environment, the proliferation of lightweight stab proof body armour makes long pointy things a second option in my view. The Fairbairn Sykes was designed in an era where body protection was not in common use. In a modern scenario, the targets are relatively small exposed areas of the body with vulnerabilities close to the surface, a knife only needs to be a few inches to reach those. If there is an assumption that artillery, hand grenades and bullets have failed, the design characteristics I would be considering are; Security of weapon in holder, ease of access, small enough to be used in close combat or restricted space, sharp enough and tough enough to damage target areas.

 

[rodriguezryan14]

I carry this small knife I made as a self defense tool/edc knife! It locks in hand well, it’s balanced well, and it definitely cuts and handles whatever I can throw at it. It’s in s7 at 58 rc. And this smaller kukri can be considered a type of fighting knife too. It’s A8 mod. And it has a nice saber convex grind. It also locks into your hand well! I’d say the balance of the knife, and your training with that knife is more important than anything!

 

[AVigil]

Stick em with the pointy end, now it is a "fighting knife"

 

[Jesse Latham]

This little defense knife sold with a concealed carry sheath. The only thing showing was a short lanyard with a bead to pull. Quick and easy deployment.

 

[Drop bear]

I like the idea of the defensive wharncliffe although I think they are generally a bit thin. So I would chunk it up a bit. And then put that big hultafors heavy duty plastic handle on it. With the two guards so that pulling and pushing are covered. I don't like exposed metal handles.

Mabye with an upgraded le duck sheath. That has the saftey lock, teck lock and can rotate.(but one that works)

It would be an ugly boy but would tick a few boxes.

 

[fitzo]

A couple of considerations:
1) Does the point align with the hold so the thrust is longitudinal? IE, is the tip along the axis if it's a sticker? Straight grip, pistol grip, finger grooves, etc? A lot of fancy gets in the way.
2) If this proposed fight gets bloody (DOH, a knife fight!) then will the bloody hand run up the blade when you stick it in the target? Will it pull out of the hand if pulled on when stuck between ribs?

Figure out how you want to kill then you'll be able to better design your proposed form.

 

[JoeBusic]

Fixed blade, quick draw, guard, ergo handle, blade shape based on use (attack, dagger; defense, classic). Next is to consider the technique. Filipinos like to cut so the blade looks more like a skinner. Japs like to slash so it's longer and straighter (not straight). Modern is whatever, as long as it cuts and slashes and stabs and doesn't kill you back (avoid daggers for self defense).

 

[12345678910]

Randall has some very pretty fighting knives

The American redesign of the Fairbairn Sykes - what's that called ? Same only thicker tips. V-42

Cold Steel SRK, tough, matte, good guard, grippy grip, cheap enough to lose and replace.

The Yarborough

Kabar

WW1 Trench knife

Also see the old medieval stuff where it was actually used.

Loveless Big Bear sub hilt fighter

 

[hugofeynman]

I carry this small knife I made as a self defense tool/edc knife! It locks in hand well, it’s balanced well, and it definitely cuts and handles whatever I can throw at it. It’s in s7 at 58 rc. And this smaller kukri can be considered a type of fighting knife too. It’s A8 mod. And it has a nice saber convex grind. It also locks into your hand well! I’d say the balance of the knife, and your training with that knife is more important than anything!

Hey, rodriguezryan14 ! What’s your opinion regarding S7 steel? Good enough edge retention? What’s the knife thickness?

 

[Lorien]

I was expecting far more smartassery in this thread. It has been very hard for me, and I hope ya'll appreciate my restraint.

 

[rodriguezryan14]

So far so good. I haven’t put it to the test much yet. We killed 3 elk this last weekend and I used an A8 mod skinner and a magnucut boning knife. I left the s7 home. I was very surprised and impressed with A8 though. It’s a totally new and different heat treat!! As far as the S7, it’s held up well just using it for edc tasks at work. But I have more testing to do! I’m actually liking it pretty well so far. I’ll give you a follow up when I used it more! This one tested at 58 rc. So it should hold up pretty well!! One thing I’ve been noticing is that wear resistance seems to be pretty over rated. We skinned and quartered three cow elk between yesterday and today. And it seemed my A8 blade did as well as the other two knives I sold my buddies. One was cpm4v hollow ground at 62, the other was z wear at 61 rc full flat ground! All around 20 thousands behind the edge with a 20 degree micro bevel. They all dulled at around the same time. But A8 was much easier to touch up with a ceramic!! The A8 tested around 57-58 rc! So technically it shouldn’t have held up anywhere near what the others did!!

Hey, rodriguezryan14 ! What’s your opinion regarding S7 steel? Good enough edge retention? What’s the knife thickness?