How to Finish Micarta?

N

Nic.

Joined
Dec 8, 2014
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Hey all! I made some nice burlap micarta, I'm really happy with how it turned out... But then I realized I have no idea how to finish it. Do I put teak oil or boiled linseed oil on it like wood or what?
Thanks in advance!
 
I used WD-40 on my homebrew micarta. You will have to keep it oiled somehow, because there will be fibers from the burlap or paper that you use that will be exposed. If it is not oiled you will get a dull kinda dry look. I am not sure about the finish if it sanded to say a 1200 grit, you may end up with a slicker look and undoubtably the exposed fibers will not be as noticeable.
 
I don't know about home brew burlap Micarta, but oiling commercial canvas phenolic definitely changes it's look. Makes it much darker.
I generally like the look of it dry and freshly cut if it's tan or green, but that look is impossible to keep because the oils from hands will darken it.
I have found that running "dirty" Micarta scales in an ultrasonic cleaner with some floor cleaner can lighten it up again (I presume by removing some of the oil from the pores).
 
Jemblade said:
I used WD-40 on my homebrew micarta. You will have to keep it oiled somehow, because there will be fibers from the burlap or paper that you use that will be exposed. If it is not oiled you will get a dull kinda dry look. I am not sure about the finish if it sanded to say a 1200 grit, you may end up with a slicker look and undoubtably the exposed fibers will not be as noticeable.
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Ok, thanks! What about putting paste wax on after oiling it?
 
JCaswell said:
I don't know about home brew burlap Micarta, but oiling commercial canvas phenolic definitely changes it's look. Makes it much darker.
I generally like the look of it dry and freshly cut if it's tan or green, but that look is impossible to keep because the oils from hands will darken it.
I have found that running "dirty" Micarta scales in an ultrasonic cleaner with some floor cleaner can lighten it up again (I presume by removing some of the oil from the pores).
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks. I appreciate the info!
 
My experience with canvas and linen micarta is that it requires nothing. It's impervious to almost everything and that's the beauty of it. As stated, it will get dirty and absorb oils, but only the exposed fibers. I've taken canvas micarta which was horribly soiled with oil and grime, and nothing more than hot water and dish soap made it look brand new. I even got Loctite on micarta and cleaned it totally off with alcohol on a Q-tip. I've heard of people using Vaseline to darken it with good results, but it would likely clean off with soap. I'm with JCaswell, I prefer new, dry micarta.
 
when I make my burlapcarta, the fibers are very course and rough. At first I didn't know what to do. I fought it for a couple days. Then I remembered super glue finish. I got thin stuff off eBay and gave it a go. Works like a charm! I promise it's the way to go. Do 2+ coats and it'll be dandy
 
Thanks guys! I'll try it a few of the different ways ya'll proposed. The super glue finish sounds interesting.
 
I tried several different approaches and that's the only one that is maintenance free and works like a charm.
 
I sand to 600g and then buff. It looks great, feels great and lasts. I don't know why you would want to coat micarta with anything except under special circumstances.

Chris
 
He's not talking about factory micarta, he is talking about mycarta. When not made in a factory, all threads Are not impregnated with resin so they feel pokey on your Mits. So I super glue finish.
But to clarify when using real micarta, I never use a coating. Just sand up to 600-1000 and call it good.
 
I am just the opposite. I don't like "fresh" Micarta because if I buy green or black handle material, i want it to be green or black, not gray or gray-green. . I sand it down and then hit it with a slow buffing wheel with gray compound.
 
In my experience industrial phenolic/micarta varies a lot in terms of color. Some is darker, some has a red tint to it, and some is almost orange. I got a big lot of some a while back from a friend and there's probably 4-5 different shades in it.

As others have mentioned here, oil can be used to darken. Also, IMO micarta looks better when sanded into the high grits but "feels" better when finished with the low grits.
 
Ok, thanks to all of you. Mine is plain ol' brown burlap. I don't want any "fuzzies", I want it to feel like a piece of wood, not grippy cloth. How about polyurethane?
 
Nic. said:
Ok, thanks to all of you. Mine is plain ol' brown burlap. I don't want any "fuzzies", I want it to feel like a piece of wood, not grippy cloth. How about polyurethane?
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I think what's gonna work best for you is to do a grit progression up to 1000 or so. That's gonna refine the surface and leave it smooth. After you finish with the higher grit you could hit it with a buffer/green chromium to really smooth things out. Before going to the buffer I highly suggest searching "buffer safety" on here or the web, and read up. The buffer is probably one of the most dangerous tool knifemakers use.
 
I have heard that one way to make canvas micarta really grippy is the finish it up and then lightly bead blast it. I was told that the blasting eats away the resin between the threads slightly faster so you get a more textured surface. What I wonder is if you could do that and them give it a light spray of acrylic clear coat or artist's fixative to darken it up again without filling in the "holes?" Buffing make it looked but also makes it flat and slick.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I think what's gonna work best for you is to do a grit progression up to 1000 or so. That's gonna refine the surface and leave it smooth. After you finish with the higher grit you could hit it with a buffer/green chromium to really smooth things out. Before going to the buffer I highly suggest searching "buffer safety" on here or the web, and read up. The buffer is probably one of the most dangerous tool knifemakers use.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. No kidding, I had a buffer throw a knife at me and hit the wall of the shop 10 feet away! Sketchy stuff sometimes...
 
jdm61 said:
I have heard that one way to make canvas micarta really grippy is the finish it up and then lightly bead blast it. I was told that the blasting eats away the resin between the threads slightly faster so you get a more textured surface. What I wonder is if you could do that and them give it a light spray of acrylic clear coat or artist's fixative to darken it up again without filling in the "holes?" Buffing make it looked but also makes it flat and slick.
Click to expand...

ok, that makes sense. Thank you!
 
I sand to 320 at the finest. Some I will leave at 120 and some will go to 220. I do this by hand like I was finishing wood. No oil or wax. If it gets dirty and needs freshened up wash it in the kitchen sink with some dish detergent and it will look like the day you finished it.

IMG_3014.jpg


This was some homemade burlap mycarta finished to 320. The fibers are very short and fine but when they get wet they still swell and stand at attention to aid in grip.
 
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