How to fix blunted tip?
- Thread starter rom
- Start date
I have a question. How to fix back to normal the blunted (rounded) tip of the drop point blade by using spyderco or apex sharpeners? Thank you.** Don't do this untill some more experienced forum-ites chime in. I am an AMATURE! **
Here is how I fixed a blade with a similar problem:
\
In figure 1, you have a rounded tip. In my case, it was a chipped tip.
In figure 2, I have scribed an arc along the blade that issolates the deformed part of the blade. The arc should have a large enough radius to "blend" the new edge with the rest of the blade.
To achive figure three, I used a 6" coarse DMT bench stone with the blade perpindicular to the stone. Initially, I worked the blade side to side across the length of the stone. As it started to near the final desired shape, I moved down to a fine diamond DMT stone and worked the blade for and aft with a slight rocking motion.
Once the blade looks like figure three, move to the edge pro and put your edge profile back on. I did not attempt to restore any of the edge free hand. I used the entire range of Apex stone.
End result is figure 4!
Once again, don't do this until there is some more opinion offered. I might be instructing you on how to TRASH your blade!
Here is how I fixed a blade with a similar problem:
In figure 1, you have a rounded tip. In my case, it was a chipped tip.
In figure 2, I have scribed an arc along the blade that issolates the deformed part of the blade. The arc should have a large enough radius to "blend" the new edge with the rest of the blade.
To achive figure three, I used a 6" coarse DMT bench stone with the blade perpindicular to the stone. Initially, I worked the blade side to side across the length of the stone. As it started to near the final desired shape, I moved down to a fine diamond DMT stone and worked the blade for and aft with a slight rocking motion.
Once the blade looks like figure three, move to the edge pro and put your edge profile back on. I did not attempt to restore any of the edge free hand. I used the entire range of Apex stone.
End result is figure 4!
Once again, don't do this until there is some more opinion offered. I might be instructing you on how to TRASH your blade!
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2004
- Messages
- 1,467
Well, that's how I've been doing it for years, except that that near to the tip I draw a straight line and also shave some metal off the spine. I do it freehand. Don't remove TOO much steel creating the point. Unless your tip's snapped off or something (as opposed to hitting a rock or getting dropped in the street), you'll just be dulling the edge at the front rather than removing it.
Will P. said:
Ya, I ment to offer an opinion on that.
I avoided removing any metal off the spine of mine because the blade was a bit on the thick side. This ment that the spine was quite prominent and I lacked the skill to return any freshly exposed spine metal to the original finish of the rest of the blade. The blade I worked also had a clip point, so there was the convex curve to consider.
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,944
I do it by taking metal of the spine also. I take it down from the spine of the blade unless the blade is one of those with a false edge then it can be tricky. Bringing it back to a point from the spine will make it so you don't have to fool with the edge geometry at all.
If you take long sweeps with just a regular belt sander down the spine it will eventually uniformly come back to a point. Just keep the blade cool and take you time. Also, use a very fine belt and then buff or polish the top of the spine with that or a Cratex wheel by 3M will also do nicely. You can do this on a grinding wheel but it produces more heat than a long belt will and the scratches are courser also but both ways work to bring it back to a point.
If you take long sweeps with just a regular belt sander down the spine it will eventually uniformly come back to a point. Just keep the blade cool and take you time. Also, use a very fine belt and then buff or polish the top of the spine with that or a Cratex wheel by 3M will also do nicely. You can do this on a grinding wheel but it produces more heat than a long belt will and the scratches are courser also but both ways work to bring it back to a point.
Did not want to wait until tonight. Just did it and it worked great! I used 180 grit stone from Apex, laid it flat on a table and and worked 1" of the spine area under the tip. Took me like 5 minutes. Gotta be carefull thought holding the stone with two fingers. Excellent, the point of the tip is sharp as new again. Thank you!!!