How to fix "Mirror Polished" D2?

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by afishhunter, Jun 1, 2020.

  1. afishhunter

    afishhunter Basic Member Basic Member

    Oct 21, 2014
    How does one go about fixing a mirror polished D2 blade so it ain't a daRn fingerprint and smudge magnet?
    Steel Wool? Green (or other color) Scotch Brite? 220 or 320 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper?

  2. wade7575


    Apr 3, 2013
    I have never done it before but I have seen a bunch of knife making video's by a lot of different people on youtube and most say they stop at 600 grit and just use sand paper.
  3. The 220-400 grit wet/dry SiC sandpaper will emulate a nice satin factory finish, and will do it pretty quickly. That's where I'd start.

    D2 responds easily to SiC sandpaper. Taping a sheet or 1/2-sheet on a hard surface like glass, stone or hardwood, and making edge-trailing linear passes along the length of the sandpaper will leave a uniform, linear scratch pattern on the steel. Keep the blade perpendicular to the direction of the sanding passes, for straight, spine-to-edge grind lines. If a little more 'give' is desired in the backing under the sandpaper, to allow it to form to the contours of the blade grind, one or two sheets of plain paper underneath the sandpaper can give it that conformity. All the better, if the blade is somewhat a convex grind, or if you wish to make it so. The little bit of cushion under the sandpaper will also help compensate for blade grinds that might be a little wavy or irregular, which would otherwise be glaringly revealed in an uneven or patchy sanding pattern if done on a completely flat, hard backing.
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2020
  4. bgentry


    Aug 3, 2009
    Keep in mind that applying a more coarse finish to a mirror polish is not easily reversed. It likely took several different grades of very fine abrasive to get that mirror polish. If you don't like it and won't want it back, then proceed.

    I would be inclined to use Scotchbrite as it is good at conforming to the curves and lines of blades so it hits "all the spots". Sandpaper won't be as easy to do that with, particularly if you are using a belt sander. Getting all of your scratch lines in the same direction is key for making it look consistent. You can do this by hand, but you have to be pretty disciplined about your movements to do so. Don't give in to temptation and start doing circles! They will look terrible. You really want all of your lines going from spine to edge, or from heel to tip. I prefer spine to edge as that's what most factory finishes look like.

    If it were me doing this job, I'd start with a VF Scotchbrite belt on my 1x42 sander. I think it produces a nice looking satin type finish.

    000Robert likes this.
  5. Mr.Wizard


    Feb 28, 2015
    Start with P600 paper, no coarser. Assume the blade is not perfectly flat and use a sanding bar with some give to it, like a layer or rubber or leather. Drag the paper carefully in only one direction the entire length of the blade, never lifting it off. Here are some video tutorials on hand finishing that can be helpful.


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