how to get 10 degree grind using a KMG?

blgoode

blgoode

Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
7,212
Okay - maybe I am a visual person or just need to walk away from the project a few days.

I am needing to get about a 10 degree grind using an angled rest and the lowest I can set my KMG to is 20 degrees.

Does anyone have pictures showing how to get say 10 degrees using a rest and a KMG grinder?


Thanks in advance!!!
 
not sure how your having a problem as i set my rest to platen at 8 for folder lock faces
do you have a angle gauge?
since the rest is constant all you should have to move is the platen/wheel holder with the 2 large bolts

if you have a small wheel maybe you could set up a platen and jig combo where the slack part is like nick wheeler has for grinding integrals
if your using a blade holder or jig im not sure how you would need to go about this
not sure if this helps or not
 
Would the set up in my picture work? Throuble is as I raise the angle the height keeps going up and I miss my platen all together.
 

Attachments

  • angle.jpg
    angle.jpg
    11.7 KB · Views: 222
trouble is my grinder only goes back to 20 degrees.....

my needed angle is about 10 degrees

MAybe this picture will help.
 

Attachments

  • angle2.jpg
    angle2.jpg
    10 KB · Views: 126
ok got you now
put the blade edge up or down and adjust the platen at 10 and go at it that way

if you need a jig for it make a little angle iron blade rest thing
i would want to go edge down but thats just me ( ive cut a few belts grinding near 0 edge kitchen knives)
 
Brian,

How about just tipping your platen the other way; to run over the work-rest? I occasionally run mine that way when working on knife fittings. It works fine that way. I use a digital level to set the angle that I want. I got the level through a woodworker’s supply company. It was made for setting the angle on a table saw blade. It has a magnet on the base and has a button to zero it. I stick it to my work-rest and zero it, then stick it to my platen and adjust to the angle that I want. You could then hold your blade against a piece of angle iron, setting on your work-rest.
 
Vicegrip the blade to a piece of angle iron on the toolrest. That means your blade will be at 90 degrees. Then just adjust the platen 10 degrees and grind away.
 
will running the angle OVER the rest twords me be super hazardous and agressive??
 
There's definitely some pucker involved!!!

I'd rather have a jig myself, but hell, I suggested the very same thing on another forum.

If you have some 1-1/2" angle iron, you can raise the back end with 1/4" stock and get real close to 10 degrees.

Do you have a mill?
 
i would much rather grind the blade edge down and check after each pass

maybe get the hard grinding out the way and then start at like 220 grit by hand as your really just honing the bevel all the way to the edge like a wedge straight razor
you jsut have to clean up the grind on stones
 
Different grinder, but I tip my platen back 10 degrees from vertical and hold the knife vertical with the edge down. If you need more exacting measure, I'd give David's suggestion a try the angle iron with a level work rest and 10 degree back platen (if grinding edge down...10 degree forward if grinding edge up). I would be a bit leary about grinding edge up with the platen angled toward me. If you want that setup, go real lightly. I'd hate to see the edge as it forms catch the seam and rip the thing from your hands.

--nathan
 
thanks for the help fellas!!:D I am now looking forward to getting back on track...once I get some angle iron :)
 
WHen i first got my KMG, i tried jigging a few blades. What I did was this:

-Drill hole and thread a bolt into the angle iron.
-Place blade with spine resting against threaded bolt to keep it from pulling down(make sure bolt doesnt protrude past spine)
-Use a vicegrip and hold the blade to the angle iron.

I used to HOG blades out with the platen angled towards me. I mean, grinding with a 60 grit belt and getting the blades fully red hot, and I never had one catch, ever.

...thats not saying the first time you try, it won't happen, but for what its worth.....
 
here is what I got done. SHE CUTS!!!!! Hope the angle isnt too thin. We'll see
 

Attachments

  • side.jpg
    side.jpg
    24.1 KB · Views: 156
  • tip.jpg
    tip.jpg
    32 KB · Views: 85
  • tip2.jpg
    tip2.jpg
    20.3 KB · Views: 114
is it flat?



that's the hardest part....10 degrees is almost too narrow for me on the toolrest....hard to keep it from "rolling" into the belt. takes a zen level of patience. :o


I've done 'em freehand....no fun! :(


The problem with the KMG as-is.....you can't get the blade right up to the belt. I had to customize the toolrest on the Dozier grind to get it right up to the belt.

Tough stuff...but worth it if you can figure it out.

Best of luck, Brian. Don't let it drive you mad....does it to me! :D

:thumbup:

Dan
 
flat as can be:thumbup: check out tip2.jpg - its shows one side bevel good :)
I am EXCITED!
I figure if its too narrow, and chips, when I hand hone it back down it will be like 12 degrees so the next oen I am aiming for the lucky 13!:D:thumbup:
 
can't tell by that pic...better test is to rub it up and down a stone (lapp it).

It's one thing to get a scandi...another to get it flat. Not saying you didn't....just letting you know that your customers will be laying it down on a stone the first time they need to sharpen one...and they'll know immediately if it's flat...and then you'll know too. :D


25 Degrees Inclusive is plenty thin for scandi

I have a larger knife I did with a scandi grind...was able to take it down to 20 Degrees Inclusive...plenty of steel behind the edge to sustain it.

Also...it's a bear to grind these any steeper anyway....:foot:


...so I've stuck with 12.5 degrees per side (25 Inclusive). Works great...and I've seen a few other makes do the same.

Dan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top