How to get a Beautiful Mirror Edge

I know this is probably an entirely new debate but is the edge pro better than the wicked edge? Lol
 
ShepardCC said:
Ceramics diamonds and strops are all that's currently available for the wicked edge
Click to expand...


Not true at all. Theres Choseras , Shaptons (Pro) , Nubatmas , Atoma Diamond Plates , Kanagaroo and Nanocloth...

Www.jendeindustries.com

I can even track down some Japanese Naturals for the WEPS...

But I'm just another EP guy so what do i know....
 
Sadden's right - Just shipped out two orders for Shapton Pro's going from 220 to 15,000 grit for the Wicked Edge plus nanocloth and 'roo on an additional paddle :) And yes I have aotos and several other natural stones for the WEPS, etc, etc. If you can get it on the EP, you can get it on the Wicked Edge - or the KME for that matter :)

---
Ken
 
I use it on a denim strop, works really well that way.
 
I have been chasing the "liquid mercury" edge for a long time.

The fundamental secret is your very first stone.

Here you need to make damn sure that the bevel has been perfectly set/profiled in all aspects.

Also your final couple of strokes on your first stone must get progressively lighter & lighter until just the weight of the stone arm is working.

The above is very important - because as you move up with the finer grits, you loose "grinding" performance with each finer stone you use.

After your first stone, all subsequent stones are just "polishing" out the scratch pattern, NOT performing any real profiling/grinding, therefor many strokes at extreme light pressure is the way forward.

It is purely a time/patience based exercise.

The first most common mistake was trying to grind out spots on the blade with finer stones, because my first stone was not perfectly finished.

Second most common error relates to stone flatness (especially when spritzing with poly diamond) - the stone wears very much faster and the resultant stone dishing presents a problem for the next "flat" stone in relation to consistent 100% full bevel contact - do not get carried away on one side of the blade every time you start a fresh stone - do like 2 passes & flip the blade (repeat) - this way you ensure more even contact between stone & bevel before the stone dishes on just one blade side.

I sometimes lap my stones twice during a "mirror" session for one knife.

Third common mistake - maintain & repeat EXACT blade position on the blade table - not doing this results in different contact areas on the blade which puts you back to common mistake one.

Fourth common mistake is tolerance levels/play/precision in the actual equipment - eliminate it if at all possible - use the drill stop collar/angle cube & angle degree upgrade arm.

Lastly, take your time - put your heart in it - CONCENTRATE ON EACH stroke!

I am still practicing to achieve that ultimate, perfect mirror bevel - it is a slow process though......

















































































Enjoy.

Rookie.
 
Well I'd like to disagree with Mad Rookie on a number of points ......

but I can't LOL EVERYTHING he says in this posting you can take to the bank and the proof is in the edges! An excellent body of work. Achieving edges at this level of consistency requires that every stroke count from the initial bevel setting precision on up to final grits.

Hard to add to this posting. These are REFERENCE edges and reflect (literally) several advances in refining the precision of the EdgePro to a higher level of performance than the original design with advances made by Mad Rookie. While I used angle cubes long before this on my Gizmo sharpener, popularizing the Angle cube on the EP along with stop collars and improved pivot joints was Mad Rookie's efforts and we are all better for it.

---
Ken
 
That's crazy polished! Great work MR!

Also I see you removed the thumbstuds on your Shoki?
 
Yes, I prefer it without thumb studs as they get in the way when slicing jerky.

@ Ken - I might just add that those mirrors are due to using your products - without them I seriously doubt achieving it!

Most of my knife steels are too hard to benefit from anything other than diamond & CBN.

Thank you.

:)
 
Thanks to this thread, you guys are making me want to grab an Edge Pro. My OCD is getting the best of me! Haha. I want mirrored edges now!!!
 
Late to the party, but here's another vote for Mother's. It works, it's inexpensive, and the regular 10 oz. tub from the local department store will likely last the rest of your life.
 
MadRookie said:
I have been chasing the "liquid mercury" edge for a long time.

The fundamental secret is your very first stone.

Here you need to make damn sure that the bevel has been perfectly set/profiled in all aspects.

Also your final couple of strokes on your first stone must get progressively lighter & lighter until just the weight of the stone arm is working.

The above is very important - because as you move up with the finer grits, you loose "grinding" performance with each finer stone you use.

After your first stone, all subsequent stones are just "polishing" out the scratch pattern, NOT performing any real profiling/grinding, therefor many strokes at extreme light pressure is the way forward.

It is purely a time/patience based exercise.

The first most common mistake was trying to grind out spots on the blade with finer stones, because my first stone was not perfectly finished.

Second most common error relates to stone flatness (especially when spritzing with poly diamond) - the stone wears very much faster and the resultant stone dishing presents a problem for the next "flat" stone in relation to consistent 100% full bevel contact - do not get carried away on one side of the blade every time you start a fresh stone - do like 2 passes & flip the blade (repeat) - this way you ensure more even contact between stone & bevel before the stone dishes on just one blade side.

I sometimes lap my stones twice during a "mirror" session for one knife.

Third common mistake - maintain & repeat EXACT blade position on the blade table - not doing this results in different contact areas on the blade which puts you back to common mistake one.

Fourth common mistake is tolerance levels/play/precision in the actual equipment - eliminate it if at all possible - use the drill stop collar/angle cube & angle degree upgrade arm.

Lastly, take your time - put your heart in it - CONCENTRATE ON EACH stroke!

I am still practicing to achieve that ultimate, perfect mirror bevel - it is a slow process though......

Enjoy.

Rookie.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the Tips!
 
Getting a great/flawless mirror edge is also dependent on the steel used; some take a far better shine than others.

Here are a few suggestions that I've found worked for me.

* Use ONLY as aggressive a stone as you need. In other words, try your 400 grit stones as the starting point instead of the 100's. If the 400's aren't taking enough off, then drop to the 200's. Remember: the coarser the stone, the deeper the scratches. It takes MUCH more time to remove a scratch than it does to avoid making one.

* Like MadRookie stated, using progressively LESS pressure as you work the edge with a stone really adds to the final finish. Once you set the bevel, you are just trying to remove the scratches from the previous grit. You can still leave some pretty good sized scratches with the higher grits if you use too much pressure. Let the stones do the work!

* Work the edge until ALL the scratches from the previous grit are gone. There is no magic/minimum number of strokes. You are not finished until the previous grit scratches are gone.

* Get some glass platens with diamond lapping films, or polishing tapes. These are MUCH quicker and easier to use than strops, and work up the mirror finish much faster. You can go from the 1,000 grit stones to the 6 micron, but 9 might be a little easier. The glass platens are double sided, so you can use the 6 on one side, and the 3 on the other. I have the 1500/Diamond platen paddles, so those allow me to go from 200-1500, then switch to the 6 micron on the back of the 1500's. I then use a 2nd glass platen set with 3 micron and 1 micron.

* For a really wicked finish, I also suggest using a metal polish. I personally prefer Mother's mag over Flitz. Flitz seems to be a little more abrasive and is more of a liquid. Mothers is more of a paste, and can be spread out a bit more evenly IMO. I use the polish on Balsa strops so you don't need to change the angle to compensate for the amount of give in the strop. You don't need much polish, either, as a little goes a long way. The real key to this step is LIGHT PRESSURE. You are not rubbing the polish into the edge. You are using it like a loaded strop, so do so with the same minimal pressure.

* Finally be patient. As stated above this is NOT a quick process. Take your time, and the results will come!
 
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