How to get my Boss Jack sharp?

You may also be using too much pressure.

If you press too hard you are actually making the edge dull instead of sharp. When stropping less is more!
 
I will keep these tips in mind for when I get it back. I hope to be able to maintain the edge with just the green and black compounds.
 
Of course, the Boss Jack comes in two grinds - CG (convex) and LE (sabre) - and the grind will determine your method. Sounds like folks are assuming convex (stropping).

I'm pretty sharpening challenged, and that's one of the reasons why I like convex grinds. I've had some success on convex with a leather paddle strop and the black and green compounds, but I really like the Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener, used without the angle-setting guard like a mini slack belt grinder. I haven't yet tried it on a Boss Jack, but it does an awesome job on my Bark River Aurora. It's the only way I've been able to actually improve on a factory edge. Gotta be careful with the tip, though.
 
All good suggestions from my book

Panamint,welcome to the forum!
(Im gonna wanna message you about badwater :) )
 
Panamint said:
Of course, the Boss Jack comes in two grinds - CG (convex) and LE (sabre) - and the grind will determine your method. Sounds like folks are assuming convex (stropping).
Click to expand...

My sabre-ground LE's have convex edges.
 
Skrapmetal said:
My sabre-ground LE's have convex edges.
Click to expand...

Perhaps I assumed too much, based on the website, which says "flat sabre". Is just the edge - as in what would otherwise be a secondary bevel - convexed? Guess that's always a possibility (could even change it yourself).

Obviously, I need to buy more Busses!
 
Panamint said:
Perhaps I assumed too much, based on the website, which says "flat sabre". Is just the edge - as in what would otherwise be a secondary bevel - convexed? Guess that's always a possibility (could even change it yourself).

Obviously, I need to buy more Busses!
Click to expand...

That's exactly what it is. The grind is flat, but the edge bevel itself is convex.
 
I sharpened mine on the Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener. It got sharp, but it took a while. My guess would be that that means you could get it sharp with the sandpaper method, but it would take even longer.
 
I got it back today but its still hardly sharp enough to cut paper. The edge is just so thick. I guess it can split wood but it will never do fine work.
 
It should still be able to cut paper - I have a 5/16 thick recon scout that I converted to a convex edge that can shave hair and push cut paper.
 
Are you taking it out of the sheath before using it???

Thats pretty crazy that it STILL cant cut paper even after Busse worked on it... who sharpened it???
 
I don't think the blade thickness by itself precludes getting the edge sharp. I am not a skilled sharpener at all, and mine will shave my arms easily.
 
dont know but the bevel is even thicker than before. The edge looks good but its just too thick for fine work.

As to who sharpened it I wouldnt know.
 
I have had the problem as well and had to move the bevel up a bit to closer to 20 degrees on each side maybe a bit thiner. You could always send it to Richard and have it convexed and get it back really sharp.

cricket
 
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