How to: Hidden Lanyard Loop (Pic Heavy)

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Dec 8, 2014
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814
I have had requests from several people to do a thread on how I do the hidden lanyard loops, so here it is!

I had customers asking for lanyard loops, but I have never really cared for the tube style loops… so I wanted to find a different way to do it. I remembered seeing one of S.A. Custom Knives blades with a hidden lanyard loop, and sent him an email. He was kind enough to explain the basic process to me, and this thread shows the process I have developed from that. Shane may have a better way to do it, so please feel free to chime in!


The basic principle of it is that there is a pin in the butt of the knife that the scales sandwich in place. You can then thread a lanyard around the pin and get something looking like this…


15p69vp.jpg



6eexeb.jpg



Ok, so first off, drilling holes. I drill my normal pin holes… but keep in mind you will need room for an extra pin, so you may have to move your rear pin forward. My hidden pin is ⅛” Carbon Fiber, so next I drill the hole for that in the butt of the knife (see picture). This hole is used as a guide and will eventually be cut out.


14v5wlf.jpg




The reason I do that is because now I can take my scales, put the pins though them, set the knife on top of it, and I know exactly where the corresponding hole in the handle needs to be. I have tried just marking the hole and then drilling it, and things never fit together properly and this results in frustration and swearing. So this is what I find to be the easy way to do it. Make note, this hole is drilled about a 1/16” deep into the handle… DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HANDLE… which I have accidentally done before because I was not paying attention to what I was doing. It's a surefire way to ruin handle material :). You want it deep enough to hold the pin, but not so deep that you are going to sand down to it and expose it while shaping the handle, which I have also done. Then do the same to your other scale.


24m8bhy.jpg



Now that your holes are drilled, you can complete cutting the slot for the lanyard. On the larger knives pictured, the slot I made was a bit larger than I should have made it. I thought I was going to use a larger cord, but didn’t, so it ended up looking a bit wider than I would have liked it to. I use a dremel/ chainsaw file to fine tune the slot. You do not want any sharp edges where the lanyard could snag. I did not take a picture when I had it completely smoothed out, but all corners are rounded and sharp edges gone.


vfgzg5.jpg



5x0i2q.jpg



Now when you put the pieces together, you should have something looking like this.


ml083o.jpg


2rmmwj4.jpg




Shaping the butt…


uprpd.jpg




Now threading the cord around the pin can be kind of tricky. I typically loop heavy duty fishing line through the slot and around the pin, tie the line to the lanyard cord, and use the line to drag the cord through. That is one thing I haven't quite figured out yet, is threading it! But that is the most user friendly method I have found so far. All said and done, it looks something like this…


ogc4z4.jpg



nmztx4.jpg



4qinq1.jpg



I hope that helps, please feel free to ask any questions or to chime in with your method of doing it!


-Nichole Lindstrand
 
I have had requests from several people to do a thread on how I do the hidden lanyard loops, so here it is!

I had customers asking for lanyard loops, but I have never really cared for the tube style loops… so I wanted to find a different way to do it. I remembered seeing one of S.A. Custom Knives blades with a hidden lanyard loop, and sent him an email. He was kind enough to explain the basic process to me, and this thread shows the process I have developed from that. Shane may have a better way to do it, so please feel free to chime in!


The basic principle of it is that there is a pin in the butt of the knife that the scales sandwich in place. You can then thread a lanyard around the pin and get something looking like this…


15p69vp.jpg



6eexeb.jpg



Ok, so first off, drilling holes. I drill my normal pin holes… but keep in mind you will need room for an extra pin, so you may have to move your rear pin forward. My hidden pin is ⅛” Carbon Fiber, so next I drill the hole for that in the butt of the knife (see picture). This hole is used as a guide and will eventually be cut out.


14v5wlf.jpg




The reason I do that is because now I can take my scales, put the pins though them, set the knife on top of it, and I know exactly where the corresponding hole in the handle needs to be. I have tried just marking the hole and then drilling it, and things never fit together properly and this results in frustration and swearing. So this is what I find to be the easy way to do it. Make note, this hole is drilled about a 1/16” deep into the handle… DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HANDLE… which I have accidentally done before because I was not paying attention to what I was doing. It's a surefire way to ruin handle material :). You want it deep enough to hold the pin, but not so deep that you are going to sand down to it and expose it while shaping the handle, which I have also done. Then do the same to your other scale.


24m8bhy.jpg



Now that your holes are drilled, you can complete cutting the slot for the lanyard. On the larger knives pictured, the slot I made was a bit larger than I should have made it. I thought I was going to use a larger cord, but didn’t, so it ended up looking a bit wider than I would have liked it to. I use a dremel/ chainsaw file to fine tune the slot. You do not want any sharp edges where the lanyard could snag. I did not take a picture when I had it completely smoothed out, but all corners are rounded and sharp edges gone.


vfgzg5.jpg



5x0i2q.jpg



Now when you put the pieces together, you should have something looking like this.


ml083o.jpg


2rmmwj4.jpg




Shaping the butt…


uprpd.jpg




Now threading the cord around the pin can be kind of tricky. I typically loop heavy duty fishing line through the slot and around the pin, tie the line to the lanyard cord, and use the line to drag the cord through. That is one thing I haven't quite figured out yet, is threading it! But that is the most user friendly method I have found so far. All said and done, it looks something like this…


ogc4z4.jpg



nmztx4.jpg



4qinq1.jpg



I hope that helps, please feel free to ask any questions or to chime in with your method of doing it!


-Nichole Lindstrand

Look for UNI knot ...................;)
 
Nice tutorial Nic. Congratulations on the magazine write up. I forgot which one it was, maybe Knives Illustrated. You're doing fine work these days.
 
Nice tutorial Nic. Congratulations on the magazine write up. I forgot which one it was, maybe Knives Illustrated. You're doing fine work these days.
Thank you Marc, you have really helped me to learn and grow as a maker!
It was Blade Magazine :).
 
Nice tutorial, thanks! Do you have any tricks for keeping epoxy out of the recessed area? Just use a Q-tip?
 
I have had requests from several people to do a thread on how I do the hidden lanyard loops, so here it is!

I had customers asking for lanyard loops, but I have never really cared for the tube style loops… so I wanted to find a different way to do it. I remembered seeing one of S.A. Custom Knives blades with a hidden lanyard loop, and sent him an email. He was kind enough to explain the basic process to me, and this thread shows the process I have developed from that. Shane may have a better way to do it, so please feel free to chime in!


The basic principle of it is that there is a pin in the butt of the knife that the scales sandwich in place. You can then thread a lanyard around the pin and get something looking like this…


15p69vp.jpg



6eexeb.jpg



Ok, so first off, drilling holes. I drill my normal pin holes… but keep in mind you will need room for an extra pin, so you may have to move your rear pin forward. My hidden pin is ⅛” Carbon Fiber, so next I drill the hole for that in the butt of the knife (see picture). This hole is used as a guide and will eventually be cut out.


14v5wlf.jpg




The reason I do that is because now I can take my scales, put the pins though them, set the knife on top of it, and I know exactly where the corresponding hole in the handle needs to be. I have tried just marking the hole and then drilling it, and things never fit together properly and this results in frustration and swearing. So this is what I find to be the easy way to do it. Make note, this hole is drilled about a 1/16” deep into the handle… DO NOT DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE HANDLE… which I have accidentally done before because I was not paying attention to what I was doing. It's a surefire way to ruin handle material :). You want it deep enough to hold the pin, but not so deep that you are going to sand down to it and expose it while shaping the handle, which I have also done. Then do the same to your other scale.


24m8bhy.jpg



Now that your holes are drilled, you can complete cutting the slot for the lanyard. On the larger knives pictured, the slot I made was a bit larger than I should have made it. I thought I was going to use a larger cord, but didn’t, so it ended up looking a bit wider than I would have liked it to. I use a dremel/ chainsaw file to fine tune the slot. You do not want any sharp edges where the lanyard could snag. I did not take a picture when I had it completely smoothed out, but all corners are rounded and sharp edges gone.


vfgzg5.jpg



5x0i2q.jpg



Now when you put the pieces together, you should have something looking like this.


ml083o.jpg


2rmmwj4.jpg




Shaping the butt…


uprpd.jpg




Now threading the cord around the pin can be kind of tricky. I typically loop heavy duty fishing line through the slot and around the pin, tie the line to the lanyard cord, and use the line to drag the cord through. That is one thing I haven't quite figured out yet, is threading it! But that is the most user friendly method I have found so far. All said and done, it looks something like this…


ogc4z4.jpg



nmztx4.jpg



4qinq1.jpg



I hope that helps, please feel free to ask any questions or to chime in with your method of doing it!


-Nichole Lindstrand
How hard would it be to make a "U" shaped void for the line/rope to follow as you try to thread it?
 
You could do it with a round file or half round file depending on how much room you have on the handle width.
 
I just measured a half round file. It is 3/4" wide with a 1 1/8" radius to the half round part of the file (the back of the file is flat). Cut your notches to fit the radius of the file like you did with the square bottom lanyard. File down with the half round file as far as you like to get a nice radius on the lanyard opening.
If your handle gets too skinny in width to fit a 3/4" wide notch in the back, use a 3/8"or larger full round file and make it the width you need. I hope this helped.
 
If you drill the lanyard hole, before you cut out the blank ( with the hole half on the blank, and half off) with a large drill bit, you will wind up with a nice radius curve instead of a square box.
IMG_20171219_103902879.jpg
 
That's the first thing I thought of when I saw the cuts made into the back to file out.
Steel is expensive , what if that was Damasteel ;) And you need inch thick drill :eek: Angle grinder and several stroke with half round file will do same job ..............without waste of steel.
Sz8nfFW.jpg
 
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