How to instructions for making a knife

Status
Not open for further replies.
Rick Marchand said:
Thank you for putting the time into this, Stacy....

You mention grain growth being the enemy but only at it happening when "... the steel gets too much above the target point."... can you expand on what kind of "too much" we are talking... 100F, 50F, 25F? There are also alloys that can control grain growth like vanadium (Aldo's 1084FG is a good example)... should steels like these be sought after by open forge heat treaters?
Click to expand...

hi rick.

i don't think there is an exalt number for it. each alloy has its own inflection point on grain size vs temperature graph.

however, we can still determine one specific alloy's overheat temperature. simplely cut whatever steel you want to test in several pieces, harden it at different temperature, then observe the grain size. the data should give you a curve of grain size vs temperature graph. it should be able to show you the general location of the inflection point.

and yeah, adding up to 0.2%V does refine the grain, those vc and v4c3 are very hard to solute, even at higher temperature. so compare to plain carbon steel like 1095, the w2 (contains 0.2%v ) intend to be a little bit of forge forgiving. same like o-1, w and v both refines the grain.
 
Last edited:
and i almost forgot this. there is a range of tempering brittlness for most of carbon steel. within the range of tempering brittleness, the derivative of the toughness vs temperature graph shows negative. usually between 200~350°C and 450~650°C， in these ranges, the toughness shows in 2 deep valleys on the graph.

elements like V Mn Si Cr Ni C has the petential of causing brittlness at 200~350C. for example W2 tool steel shows significant brittleness during this range.

elements like W Mo Ti Al can some how reduce or eleminate the effect of brittleness during this range. example, o-1 tool steel.

i can't say excaltly the number for each steel. bladesmith might also have to find it themselves for specific steel. get multiple samples of a alloy all hardened at same temperature, then tempering at different temperature from 180°C to 400°C。find the brittleness range, avoid it during the tempering.
 
I have attached buffolo horn handles to a blank using Hot Stuff red label and pins. Is the Hot Stuff good for this or should I have used Epoxy? If so what is the difference between the two? The Hot Suff is a super glue but is 5000psi which I was told is not the "normal" super glue from WalMart.
 
The PSI rating on super glue is mainly a marketing hype.
The use of cyanoacrylic glues ( super glue/hot stuff) for attaching handle scales to a metal tang is not as good as using a quality slow cure epoxy. There are several reasons for this, including moisture degradation, life of the bond, and brittleness of the resin. a 24 hour curing epoxy is the best to use. Accraglass is a brand that is used by many of the best knifemakers.

You didn't fill out your profile yet, but I'm guessing you are from Italy or lower Europe?
 
Last edited:
I appreciate your response. I'm new to Blade Forums and I'm from the US not Europe. I was wondering if you would suggest that I take the scales off and redue with epoxy?
 
No, I would leave them as they are. The resin you used will be fine.

I presumed Italy or Lower Europe because you referred to the scales as Buffolo,which is what they are called there.

Filling out your profile will be a big help to those who respond to you and be a help for you, as nearby makers can invite you over.
 
No, I would leave them as they are. The resin you used will be fine.

I presumed Italy or Lower Europe because you referred to the scales as Buffolo,which is what they are called there.

Filling out your profile will be a big help to those who respond to you and be a help for you, as nearby makers can invite you over.
__________________
Stacy E.Apelt




Does upgrading my profile with a pic cost extra? Anyway you have been a big help. Are you from the states? I would love to manage this profile better but this must cost extra? How long have you been with this Forum? I live in Oklahoma and have been interested in knives since my deployment to Iraq. I got ahold of an awesome blade and it is a one of a kind! Then I just turned into a knife nut. There is a dealer locally who has his own knife store and he sells these knives cheaper than anywhere I have ever seen. These knives are not cheap and are made from the best materials on earth. I have concluded this dude is filthy rich and isn't looking for a profit. I thought about buying up lots of blades and selling them on eBay. I'm rambling.. Bye
 
Filling out your profile only requires you clicking the "User CP" and clicking "Edit Profile". Fill in all the blanks and hit submit.

As far as posting photos, that is a benefit of being a paid member. It is not much for a basic membership. You can't get the kind of info available here for that price anywhere.
 
I was wondering if I can use Polyeurethane gloss on the buffolo handle for shine? I was also curious if anyone knows what D1 steel is. I purchased a knife from a custom knife maker and he said the sreel he used is D1
 
This thread is a sticky, and not usually used for question and answer.
It would be best for you to post a new thread with specific questions.

On the subject of polyurethane on handles,any coating on a handle will dull and rub off soon, and can really feel funny,too. Sand and buff buffalo horn and it will be quite shiny.
It needs no finish, but you can flood it with thin CA ,sand it down, and repeat several times to seal any micro-cracks and harden it a bit. The final sanding and buffing will be as on non-treated horn. With a CA seal treatment, you are not covering the handle material, but allowing it to penetrate the material, and sanding the CA off the surface back to a fine finish.
 
Stacy, this was an Excellent read, a wealth of knowledge for sure. It makes me want to give it another try on making a knife. My first attempts were fruitless to say the least went head on into it without being better informed and hit some walls. I will definately give it another go thanks to you getting my interest back into it and having somemore knowledge. So for that i give you a BIG Thank You.
I would also like to wish you luck on the completion of your book...
Let us fellow forumites, knifenutz know when it is out, because i would like a copy for sure.
Thanks again.
Ray
 
Very interesting and great job of editing a lot of information into a manageable post for a neophyte. thank you.
 
Thank you Stacy! What grit and shape files would you recommend for A hardwood handle like Bocote? I'm working on a Bowie with a bolster and a pommel already installed in the blank so I need a file or something to take of wood without chipping it to a precise curve to fit between the two pieces of steel bolster and pommel. :thumbup:This thread has been immensely helpful already!
 
That was a very nice article that simplified a complex subject without dumbing it down too much. Well done.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top