How to keep clean grinds clean

R

Randy3000

Joined
Jun 3, 2017
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I had a heck of a time getting a good pic, but if you look at the spine of the blade close to the tang you can see the swedge is more pronounced there than it is farther down the blade. This was pretty and even once i finished at the grinder. I went to 100 grit on the grinder and then hand sand at 100 grit and heat treat. I then sand all the way up to 1000 grit. This uneven grind line happened during the hand sanding, probably trying to get that one stubborn scratch out.
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Also, the lines aren't as crisp as i would like. I guess i need to sand to a higher grit on the machine? If i do, I'll still have to hand sand, so i will encounter the same problem? What grit should i sand to on the machine?
 
On a small blade like that I would probably use some EDM stones, then once I got to the final grit stone, use sand paper with pull strokes to get your final finish/ scratch pattern.

And yes, take it up to a higher grit, I'd probably go to 400. It's too easy to round things when having to remove that much material to get the scratches out and with that "large" (low) of a grit sandpaper. Then use a spray adhesive on the back of your sand paper before cutting into strips and stick it to your hard backed sanding block/stick.

Trying to fold the paper around your block will make it harder to keep the paper wrapped tightly enough to stay flat enough for such a small surface, so it would be easier to use the spay adhesive.

Also, make sure to sand at a different angle on the flats than you do on the bevel, something around 30 degrees can also help to keep from rounding over the transitions/ grind lines and keep them crisp.

Just my 2 cents.

~Paul
My YT Channel
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... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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I use adhesive spray on the back of the paper and then stick it to my sanding blocks. It becomes almost like a stone and keeps the lines crisp.
 
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it looks like you rocked your sanding block while hand sanding. if it does not stay flat on your bevel, you will round the angle between the flat and the bevel. if you hold your block or pinch your paper right over the blade its easier to feel when its flat. if you use a 4" wide block and hold it at the ends its harder to tell when you are not flat on the bevel. this may help your crispness.
 
Thanks guys. I have only ever done full flat grinds, but am trying to expand a bit so this is a new problem for me. The surface area of the swedge is quite small and it's hard to know when it is flat.
 
Try using magic marker or layout dye on a small surface like that and make a smooth light pass to see if you are level or tilting then dye again to see if made the correct adjustment. Hand sanding those small areas are a challenge to keep even.
 
I take the blades to 400 on grinder. The first step for the finishing is done with a 400 grit tool and die makers stone. From there I switch to sand paper held in a custom machined aluminum sanding block.
 
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