How to keep M4 from corroding or forming a patina?

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Oct 23, 2010
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My gayle Bradley should be in some time tomorrow, so I want to know how to keep the carbon steel from rusting or forming a patina.

I've heard of using regular old carnuba wax. Is this a pretty good idea? If not then help me out and give me some good suggestions. Thanks!
 
Mostly, just don't put it away dirty or wet. Keep it oiled (or what ever anti corrosion substance you like). Remember, if you will be using it for food prep, use a food safe oil, like mineral oil, or clove oil, or such.

Cutting some things will form an instant patina on high carbon steels, (usually a bluish tint) from cutting acidic fruit, or some meats.

I go the opposite way normally, and I really love the look of patina on these knives. I force it with mustard etc.
 
A Tuff cloth? If you want zero discoloration (no patina) you have to make some kind of barrier to keep stuff and oxygen off the steel. Oil, wax, or a synthetic will all work but some will last longer than others.
 
I was under the impression that M4 didn't take a patina well.

If it will take a patina to keep it from rusting that would be the best thing for me. Just cut some acidic foods and let it sit? Or wipe it off quickly?


Mostly, just don't put it away dirty or wet. Keep it oiled (or what ever anti corrosion substance you like). Remember, if you will be using it for food prep, use a food safe oil, like mineral oil, or clove oil, or such.

Cutting some things will form an instant patina on high carbon steels, (usually a bluish tint) from cutting acidic fruit, or some meats.

I go the opposite way normally, and I really love the look of patina on these knives. I force it with mustard etc.
 
To me M4 seems to have some resistance to forming a patina. Ive peeled apples and oranges and seen patina form almost instantly on Case carbon steel knives. But I've used my Gayle Bradley to peel apples and oranges both with no patina forming at all instantly. Of course I rinsed and dried it minutes after and have had no rust problems either.
 
I was under the impression that M4 didn't take a patina well.

If it will take a patina to keep it from rusting that would be the best thing for me. Just cut some acidic foods and let it sit? Or wipe it off quickly?

It doesn't take a colorful patina, but it does take one. The most I see on either of my M4 knives is a light blue.

My Ti/M4 Military, I let it come on gradually, using it to cut up fruit and such, wiping it when done. With my GB, I put the blade up to where the edge ends in vinegar for a few hours. Both methods have prevented red rust.


edit: here's a post of mine where i showed the patina on my M4 Military http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8965740#post8965740
edit2: and here's a pic of the GB's patina http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9049081#post9049081
 
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Renaissance wax. Museums and collectors use it for preservation of weapons, armory, jewelry, coins and such.
 
I use a silicone gun cleaning cloth bought for $2.99 at the box store sporting goods section. I wipe it down after making sure there is nothing acidic or salt containing on the steel.

If I need long term storage I clean the blade of everything, including fingerprints, then use the clear liquid silicone from A.G.Russell.

I grew up with carbon and alloy steels and keep them as rust free as I do my stainless blades. It works for me, and takes less time than it took me to type this post. Joe
 
I use a silicone gun cleaning cloth bought for $2.99 at the box store sporting goods section. I wipe it down after making sure there is nothing acidic or salt containing on the steel.

If I need long term storage I clean the blade of everything, including fingerprints, then use the clear liquid silicone from A.G.Russell.

I grew up with carbon and alloy steels and keep them as rust free as I do my stainless blades. It works for me, and takes less time than it took me to type this post. Joe

bolded the key part. a few people new to non stainless steels like to cry wolf on steels like this, because they'll cut up an apple, and then wipe it down with a tuf cloth. all that does is seal in the acid that wants to eat your blade. it's gotta be clean, then dry, then put your protective layer on, and even that last step is optional.

my M4 millie hardly ever gets oiled down, other than the pivot and jimping(i've notice moisture will attack the jimping first, sitting in the cracks). it really only takes a few more seconds to clean the steel properly, you just have to be aware of it.

I had the faintest beginnings of red rust spots forming on my blade after I cut up a pineapple, but after I rinsed and dried the blade, I didn't blow out the handle enough, so water must have condensed back onto the blade in my pocket. a very quick rub down with very fine sandpaper fixed it up with a few passes.
 
My gayle Bradley should be in some time tomorrow, so I want to know how to keep the carbon steel from rusting or forming a patina.

I've heard of using regular old carnuba wax. Is this a pretty good idea? If not then help me out and give me some good suggestions. Thanks!

I use Fluid Film on my Gayle Bradley and it is a perfect protectant. No patina and no rust. It is food safe as well.

fftestpanelslarge.jpg
 
M4 does not rust or patina that easy, care for your blade properly and you should have no issue.

I just keep my knives clean (no oil) and they are fine.
 
Patina=no rust.

I get my Patina from memories, each mark marks a moment in my life that I had used it.

This was from Christmas Eve dinner, a rack of lamb.

dsc07432e.jpg
 
I would not go to the extremes to prevent the patina forming on a carbone steel blade. It is perfectly natural. Just make sure that the blade is clean and dry before you close it - that should suffice.
 
personally i welcome patinas on my blades--discoloration is not quite the same as red rust. if you are really going to enjoy any knife just use it & clean it, the knife will take more years than you will live to oxydize into oblivion .
dennis
 
The $5 can of Johnson's Paste wax I bought back in 1989 is still half-full and it has kept a whole bunch of blue steel guns and carbon knives from rusting.
 
I would not let it bother you. In my experience, it patinas quickly. I cut a few grapes for my daughter, literally like three and it developed a patina. So then I just did a vinegar and mustard treatment and personally, I like it.


p495177003-6.jpg
 
If it does patina, it's really quite easy to remove one. Usually a rubbing compound used to polish jewellery will remove a patina very quickly.

Everyone else has given great advice as far as care goes from carbon steel/M4, it really isn't that worrisome of a metal and you shouldn't have any issues with rust.
 
I actually like the look of that also. It's almost like a black oxide coating, and in a way I guess it is. Did you take the knife apart to dip the blade?



I would not let it bother you. In my experience, it patinas quickly. I cut a few grapes for my daughter, literally like three and it developed a patina. So then I just did a vinegar and mustard treatment and personally, I like it.


p495177003-6.jpg
 
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