How to make a steel insert framelock stick more?

Atakdog

Atakdog

Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
195
So I've had my ZT 0452cf for almost two years now and it has possibly been my most pocketed knife during that time period. However, the lock has progressively gotten worse and is slipping too easily.
Engages at about 60% but I can push it far enough for the detent to touch the other scale using one finger. As far as staying engaged I can feel the lock slipping just from hand pressure, and it very easily fails spinewacks. Not like hacking a 2x4 in half spinewacks, I'm just talking the weight of the knife alone allowed to drop from 4" off a table. Call it abuse if you want but none of my other framelocks do that.

I just don't trust it enough, so I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to make it have a slight stick like a ti+steel interface (or any other steel insert framelock thats actually designed well)?
 
The only thing that I would do is send it in to Customer Service. THAT is not what a ZT is supposed to do...
 
I'd second the idea to send it into ZT customer service. If you are adamant about rectifying the situation yourself, have someone carbidize either the blade tang or the face of the lock insert. The layer of carbon will add a little mass so it doesn't lock up so late, as well as traction. Don't carbidize both the lock insert and the blade tang.
 
If it's failing spine whacks, the lock geometry is off and no amount of stick will make it safe.
 
Have you checked to make sure the pivot is tight? This can cause a lot of the issues you are describing.
 
Take a q tip with alcohol and make sure the lock faces are clean, Make sure all the screws are tight. If thats doesn't solve it then send it in for warranty.
 
I will say it again. I had an 0801 that would move over to 100 percent the harder you gripped the handle. I sent it to their repair department. The head guy at the repair department sampled other new 0801's and they all exhibited this behavior. ZT then replaced my 0801 with another sample that was less prone to the slippage, and they called it good.

I believe their geometry is off, but rather than escalate to the engineers, I guess they viewed it as inherit to the design.
 
Alignment is very important in the behavior of framelocks and linerlocks.

A lack of tension and/or overtightening of any fastener on the knife - yes, including pocket clip screws, can cause changes in lockup as well as how much the lock binds against the tang. Slight inconsistencies in scale, liner or pivot fit upon reassembly of a knife can cause similar effects.

I would check the tension on all the fasteners on your knife and use purple or blue loctite as necessary to fix them at the appropriate tension.
 
Megalobyte said:
If it's failing spine whacks, the lock geometry is off and no amount of stick will make it safe.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that might be the problem. The ramp is pretty steep compared to my other knives and its flat, so there might be a limited amount I can do. I've heard this is a general ZT issue so I think it might be that they make their lock geometry that way so that every knife locks up at 50% and feels solid (to maintain that "ZT built like a tank" feel) despite bad tolerances around the pivot and lock.
 
And I have sent the knife in for warranty for different issues, and it was returned with the same lock problems. Due to what I said above, I don't think this is an issue ZT can fix.
 
this is why i avoid buying framelocks and linerlocks nowadays, ive had too many issues with slipping, backlocks all the way
 
I have two NIB ZT0801BRZ models, which are among my most prized possessions and no longer available. Both sit at about 40% when locked up. One knife is absolutely solid regardless of hand pressure. The other might move to 45 or 50% with a rock-HARD grip. There is no lock-stick on either.
 
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Sonnydaze said:
I have two NIB ZT0801BRZ models, which are among my most prized possessions and no longer available. Both sit at about 40% when locked up. One knife is absolutely solid regardless of hand pressure. The other might move to 45 or 50% with a rock-HARD grip. There is no lock-stick on either.
I do NOT do spine-whacks, as it doesn't represent realistic use in my opinion. I can find NO fault with either knife. IMO
Click to expand...

I agree. Spinewhacks to me are a good way to get a lock to start failing when it may not have otherwise.
 
It's not spinewacks, I can barely tap the thing and it closes. Also now its slippery enough that when I push it to 100% engagement it just springs back to around 60%. All the screws are tight and it's centered. I'm going to send it in to ZT. Even if it's bad geometry in the design it shouldn't be that bad.
 
When you're sending a knife to ZT and they say to pack it securely, and you can't find bubble rap but have a shit ton of 36-packs of Reeses:
 
Finally got the knife back from ZT. The lock no longer slips and only pushes over to about 70% now, So I'll take that. However, I sent it out with a polished 18dps edge and specifically asked them NOT to sharpen it... and it is returned to me with a toothy edge that's got to be 25-30dps. :mad:
 
Atakdog said:
Finally got the knife back from ZT. The lock no longer slips and only pushes over to about 70% now, So I'll take that. However, I sent it out with a polished 18dps edge and specifically asked them NOT to sharpen it... and it is returned to me with a toothy edge that's got to be 25-30dps. :mad:
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's the same blade?
May have been re-bladed for the fix.
 
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