How To Protect Uncoated Steel?

[toker]

Knives in the dishwasher?

 

[ScoMa]

Put me down as another vote for mineral oil.

 

[scdub]

For regular use mineral oil.

In between regular oiling, I’ve found that tung oil works very well, as it dries hard and excludes oxygen more effectively than most other oils. I mix it with a little orange oil spirits and paint it on.

Similar idea to the clear spray paint but probably better to ingest. It leaves a clear but yellowish and visible coat though FYI so probably doesn’t look as nice as the clear paint. It also takes a couple of days to dry so you’ll need a spot to lay your knives around.

I did a big batch of knives and Ulticlips few months back, and I plan to do this every few years as needed:

 

[resinguy]

Years ago I learned about Ballistol on these boards. Works for me.

 

[AntDog]

Tuf-Cloth, but if you’re going to use your blades for food often, straight mineral oil would be better.

That’s exactly what I use. Blades that will see food get mineral oil, blades that won’t get tuf-cloth or tuf-glide.

But, all of my non stainless knives have patina. Can’t really keep from it if you use em.

 

[lmcq784]

Knives in the dishwasher?

I know… made me cringe. A lot.
But as we all say, different stroke for different blokes! I’m not gonna judge on others’ practices and preferences, but I sure won’t allow “nice knives” in dishwashers in my household!!

 

[elof_alv]

For a knife that will sit in a sheath, clear spray paint. It works surprisingly well in protecting carbon steel, but you still have to check to see if there is under surface corrosion. For outside cutting tools, black spray paint. Use tool, rinse dirt off, wipe dry. Then black spray paint over last paint layer. Works great.

Storage in a leather sheath will not protect a carbon steel blade from corrosion, and I guarantee, will instead, rust the heck out of the blade. An oily blade in a plastic sheath actually does well.

If you want the carbon steel to be instantly useable and pretty, an oily surface is about it. Won't last long, and oil without oxygen blocker additives is not a n effective nor long term rust preventative. I have sprayed blades with various oils, and coated with Cosomoline grease, and wrapped the blade in wax paper or Saran Wrap. I uncorked a sword that was coated in cosomoline and wrapped in wax paper, a decade later, and the grease was still pliable and the surface un rusted.

I impregnate my leather sheaths (the ones I make) with beeswax based conditioner and I don't get any rust on them, and I live few miles from the ocean coast and humidity never goes below 65%... right now it's probably at 200% since, yet gain!, we've been getting an inch of rainfall per hour this afternoon...

 

[luethge]

Go with Elmax. It’s the easiest most sure way. Otherwise they’ll stain / rust etc.

That Yard Keeper looks perfect . Still got a long life ahead of it.

 

[elof_alv]

Are you looking to keep your knives nice and new looking ?

Or are you worried about consuming rust ?

Jeff Randall wrote an article in Blade magazine or Tactical Knives many many years ago about the food prep knives in South America
All of them had rust on them.
wet environment and using them as the tools they are they were not kept as rust free as you would think.
I wish I could find the article

I did find this though on the toxicity of rust (there is none)

https://azrust.com/rust-consumption/

As far as keeping INFI from Rusting, I have had some naked info in kydex sheaths for over a decade and no problems.
My NICK that has been through the dishwasher a few times still looks great

Show off!!!

If NICK's were a regular offering on the company store your tasks as a mod would be taking as much time as you take to sip your FIRST coffee in the moning!!!

 

[Alone]

...View attachment 1829302...

Sorry for the slight hijack, but that Cattaraugus "Q"...Be still my heart.

 

[scdub]

Sorry for the slight hijack, but that Cattaraugus "Q"...Be still my heart.

Family heirloom.

It was given to my Dad by a marine that served in WW2, he gave it to me as a teenager, and I recently restored it and passed it along to my son.
Before:
After:

 

[Andy the Aussie]

I impregnate my leather sheaths (the ones I make) with beeswax based conditioner and I don't get any rust on them, and I live few miles from the ocean coast and humidity never goes below 65%... right now it's probably at 200% since, yet gain!, we've been getting an inch of rainfall per hour this afternoon...

.....don't forget the gale force winds....... !!!! Literally rain blowing in the front door (under a verandah) sideways at 5pm... !

 

[Alone]

Family heirloom.

It was given to my Dad by a marine that served in WW2, he gave it to me as a teenager, and I recently restored it and passed it along to my son.
Before:View attachment 1832201
After:
View attachment 1832203

Wow(!), beautiful. Great story, too.


I have one that I purchased awhile back. I've been giving it some love, slowly-but-surely and here-and-there.

Maybe when I'm done, I'll tag you in one of the pic threads...get your opinion on it.

 

[JackHammer]

Been using this biobased product on all my knives and recently started using it on my semi-auto handguns too. Works great!

 

[chessiedog]

if you’re going to use your blades for food often, straight mineral oil.

I agree with this post.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

I'm going to try coating my knives in butter

 

[duramax]

Looking for food safe recommendations for protecting naked Busse Kin blades from patina & corrosion. I’ve heard of bees wax as a solution but I thought I’d hear from the brain trust here before I do anything.

I’ve been having good luck with Odie’s oil. Works great on sr101 and INFI and very well on micarta.

 

[Father & Son Traditional Sharpening]

I’ve been having good luck with Odie’s oil. Works great on sr101 and INFI and very well on micarta.

I was going to mention this, how often does it need to be reapplied?

My #1 recommendation would be Eezox, which is claimed to be food safe (Eezox Knife Care Product) when it is applied and dried properly. Never wipes off and will stay on the blade indefinitely, very seldom does it need reapplication.

 

[duramax]

I was going to mention this, how often does it need to be reapplied?

My #1 recommendation would be Eezox, which is claimed to be food safe (Eezox Knife Care Product) when it is applied and dried properly. Never wipes off and will stay on the blade indefinitely, very seldom does it need reapplication.

It really seems to last awhile. Now I’m a maintenance nut case lol. So I clean my knives regularly with my users. But I’d say a good three months at least on steel and longer on micarta. For sheath making I coat my knives with this. And it holds up really well with wet molding. To the point where with those knives , I haven’t reapplied it for say six months. I’ve tried it on leather and seems to work , but I’m not sold on it for leather use. On the plus side a jar will last you almost forever !! I’ve refinished two tables and eight chairs. Use it on the knives and have a lot left to go.