How to recognize reground blades?

chickentrax

chickentrax

Joined
Aug 5, 2005
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I'm not all that familiar with Buck 110 blade profiles, and I picked up a couple cheap Bucks for parts/buildups, but I'm not sure how good/bad the blades are...



The top one looks pretty good to me; I may not do anything to it except clean it up and maybe do some fine sanding to the blade...but do the blades on the bottom two look like they are worth saving??? Are they close to original profile, or have they been ground down a *lot*??? :confused:

(Top is a no-dot; other two are 2-dots; all slab-sided)

If they're junk, no problem. I can use the frames. :)

Comments welcomed! ;)
 
Trax,

Don't know that I'll be much help...I will say that the top one looks like a keeper to me. That said I have three, two dot 110s, one is a two pin the others are three pin. One I know is mint, one is suppose to be real close to mint...the other has been sharpened, how much?????don't know.:(

Now here's the kicker...all three are different:eek: ...remember a thread about the clip/chamfer a while ago, IIRC Joe or Larry said something about that time frame and how difficult it is to tell about the blades and grinds. It looks like the grinds on these three are different also.

Don't know what else I can tell you that would help. Preston

Edit to add photos:

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Thought that photos might help. P
 
I think the middle one looks pretty good, if the tip isn't exposed when closed it should be fine. Just clean it up a little.

The bottom one is kinda funky looking. I'd toss the blade and use the handle for a reblade project.
 
yea - send the bottom in for balde exchange or use it for to experment to find a way to drill a hole in it or cut saw teeath in it... you know it can be done right?
 
334dave said:
...experment to find a way to drill a hole in it or cut saw teeath in it... you know it can be done right?
Click to expand...

I know a HSS cutter won't touch it... :grumpy: at $35 per cutter... :mad:
 
...Hmmm...Ya know I once had to drill a hole in a piece of relatively thin stainless that was hardened to about 60RC or better...The problem was that I was not supposed to fully anneal the piece. This piece of material, IIRC, was almost the size of a typical blade used in a typical Buck. The way I did this was to "spot anneal" it. I put a drill that was just slightly bigger than the hole I wanted to drill and chucked it backwards so the cutting edge of the drill was up in the chuck. I vised the stainless and ran the flat face of the drill shank against the stainless at high speed. It heated just that area tremendously...it actually went thru the color changes all the way to blue. I let it cool and drilled the hole very slowly and with lubricant in the softened area. You do need a stationary drill press to get that area hot enough though. It did work for that...I wonder if it would work on a piece of 420HC or 440C without moving the annealled area out too far...:cool: :eek: :rolleyes:...by the way...have ya considered a masonry bit?...Start out small and work up to larger. If it's new they cut case hardened stuff pretty easily up to .125 or a bit deeper...
 
DarrylS said:
...Hmmm...Ya know I once had to drill a hole in a piece of relatively thin stainless that was hardened to about 60RC or better...
Click to expand...

I don't have any need to drill holes...saw teeth might be interesting, but I'm pretty sure I could do them with a carbide end mill...or a cupped grinding wheel...on 420HC blades...getting the angle is easy; the tooth spacing might be a problem...I'd need a flat ground blade; the hollow ground Buck blade wouldn't work... :rolleyes:

Next year... ;)
 
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