how to remove surface rust

Z

ZippyDan

Joined
Sep 30, 2005
Messages
61
my benchmade monochrome has tiny little spots of orange which i assume are rust :D how do i remove it

and how do i prevent it from happening again. its basically my edc and i clean it with tufcloth like twice a year. maybe i need to do so more often
 
I got a SOG twitch II in the mail last week, and I took that up to my cottage this weekend. I had been using a monochrome as my EDC until I got the SOG, and when I went to grab it this morning I saw the same thing you describe, small amounts of orange rust. I VERY gently rubbed the blade with a scouring pad and then applied a little bit of stainless steel cleaner. This seemed to remove the rust, but I know that it wasnt the best thing to do for the knife. Anyway I would also love to know what to do if this happens again, and ideally how to prevent it from happening.
 
First try Simichrome, Flitz, or Maas.
(Follow the instructions on the tube.)

If that doesn't remove the rust, try using one of them with 0000 ("Final Finish") steel wool.

There are different approaches to this; others no doubt will post them...
 
The best pure oxide/rust remover I've used is 'Tarnite', seemingly available only via internet order from Ace Hardware in 9-ounce tins.

Tarnite's active ingredient is oxalic acid, which chemically digests metallic oxides. It also contains a very fine abrasive polish, but the abrasive action is very low - not really suitable for removing heavy pitting left behind by heavy rusting.

Hope this helps!
 
if i do an ebay search for 0000 steel wool, i get many results, but none that say final finish. if i do a search for final finish, i get many results, but none that say 0000 steel wool. what exactly am i looking for
 
I get the same thing on my Monochrome and I use MetalGlo polish, it works very well.
 
I would not recommend Naval Jelly. Some compounds can actually remove carbon from the steel. Most rust removers clearly state "do not use on springs." Springs have high carbon content. Blades have high carbon content.
Bill
 
Just throwing my 2 cents in on the care and prevention of rust I've read several post concerning this topic and many products are suggested but the one thing I have found to work the best is to heat the blade to remove the moistier form the metal and before anyone says anything about ruining the temper of a blade there is no reason to ever heat a blade even remotely close to a temp that would ever change the temper of a blade. Just enough to drive off the moisture and then appling the product of your choose. I personally use 3in1 on my utility blades and mineral oil or crisco(lard) on my blades used for any food or game prep and wipe it dry. Having a warm dry piece of metal will allow what ever treatment you decide to use to get directly to the metal and not trap the moisture under it. Then there is the issue of storage moisture in the air verses metal temp can equal condensation even if its so slite you can't see it and that will lead to rust. After cleaning your blade (assuming most people use soap and water) dry it then heat with a flame (avoid using candles or matches or anything that can soot the blade) a blow drier on high heat or put on a window sill in direct sun. Then apply your blade treatment. This process works good for waterproofing sheaths and boots. Hope this will help.
 
I've used Flitz on minor surface rust with good results. use with a soft cloth. I've also used it with a polishing wheel on a Dremel for more serious rust. Got to go with Packratt144 on the prevention part.
 
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