- Joined
- Oct 6, 2009
- Messages
- 10,338
this
"oh ooohhhhh"
man that pic is priceless
glad everything worked out for you :thumbup:
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
how to restore a bent tip on an umnumzaan?
- Thread starter zyhano
- Start date
man that pic is priceless
glad everything worked out for you :thumbup:
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,495
this
"oh ooohhhhh"
That makes me smile. Print it, frame it, hang it on the wall. Hopefully, it'll make you smile (maybe laugh?) too, every time you look at it.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,593
yup, it did, read on below.man that pic is priceless
glad everything worked out for you :thumbup:
Yeah, it's hilarious. The contrast :thumbup:
Good thing that in the end good always prevails over evil
tubbies: 1
umnumzaan: 2
So, all's well that ends well.
The dmt C/F diafold did the job in about 30 minutes, just slow sharpening yesterday evening, of removing the chips by grinding off a piece of the edge. Just some well placed actions and observation of what was happening. The sharpening itself maybe took about 5 minutes in total.
I was really amazed by the action of the diamonds, this was the first s30v I did with the dmt diamonds and it cut really fast! compared to my waterstones and even the diamond rods of the sharpmaker it was soo much faster. I actually started looking for dmt benchstones online after that experience. Because of the time and the light (dark) I did not go to the XF/XXF diafold but instead did some stropping while watching some youtube stuff, putting the dmt XF/XXF off to today, and after a lot of passes the tip shaved hair again, although reluctantly.
So today, I took an early leave from work and just started some sharpening work in the garden, started on Fine, progressed to XFine and finished of on XXFine. Sharp...
THe swedge was damaged too, so I decided to first put a steel to bend back some of the large (relatively speaking) pieces of rolled over swedge edge. This worked decently and the steeling actually put a lot of it back in place, but I could still feel some pieces of metal sticking out on the swedge. So I put that on the XF until they were removed and then on the XXF to polish. At this moment, the swedge actually cuts, although I'd never recommend doing that, as the force goes directly on the framelock. I still have to polish it up as it looks pretty scratched up, tiny XXF polished scratches, but you can see differences in the reflection of light.
Then I started stropping again and at the moment the edge is sharp from heel to toe. Cuts paper without stopping/hanging on burs from heel to toe and shaves hair from heel to toe.
So, my conclusions so far:
- dmt diamond sharpeners will be the only way to go for me on s30V, they cut so much faster. I'm totally sold on diamonds (dang, I'm talking like my gf)
- The malleability of the umnumzaan's s30V seemed pretty decent, probably because of the relatively low Rockwell hardness of 58/59. It didn't break on bending the tip back. In hindsight, maybe a higher RC would have broken the tip on impact already and the lower RC made it able to bend on the epoxy/fiberglass motherboard in the first place.
- I lost some steel of the tip because I had to grind it off with the coarse diafold, which went very well and pretty fast. I didn't totally create a new pointy tip as it had before, but it will function fine the way it is, and for piercing ability I have gained some extra points because of the sharper swedge and a very sharp edge on the tip.
- The easy chipping characteristics of s30V seem to be confirmed yet another time. As stated, I had chips around the tip area. All in all, the damage was substantial. Not expected on my part. Naivity? I don't know, I feel the knife should have handled it.
- teletubbies are even more irritating than I already new, but in the end, they do die!
- And for all the CRK fans, the framelock of the umnumzaan did not fail (of course, I did not try it on a polish refrigerator)
thanks for the tips and pointers. Does anybody have a good suggestion on how to polish the swedge?
here are the pics of my refurbished umnumzaan.
the tools of the trade
tip shape.
Attachments
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,283
you can polish the swedge with a small piece of wood and wrap some wet and dry sand paper around it...just go down the grits till you get desired finish, when you get to 1500 i use that until its back to paper, you'll have a mirror polish at that level.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,593
thanks Robert :thumbup: I tried some metalpolish and while it polished well, I can't get the uniformity. It's obvious the sandpaper will work. thanks again, will do exactly that.
Last edited:
razorburn
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2007
- Messages
- 2,435
this
"oh ooohhhhh"
I reckon you don't take kindly to no tubbies but I glad it all worked out fine in the end.
Glad everything worked out with the knife, my only question is why would you use a....$300-$400 knife to destroy a ....$30 toy? If it were me I would've went at it with a leatherman multi-tool or a MUCH cheaper knife. I'm sure it was as simple as less sleep + annoying kids + closest knife to you = Destruction. Good story though.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,593
Yessss, destruction :thumbup: It was that simple
and I wanted to use the knife anyway, that's what I have it for right 
as for your original question: because I can and because it should destroy it. It took me an umnumzaan and a kukhri (and a victorinox multitool to open it up with a screwdriver to check what was inside that killed the tip of the umnumzaan).
peppercorn
Regular Dude
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2009
- Messages
- 2,912
It looks and sounds like it came out great. I can see the tip profile, which will be arguably stronger now.
Can you post more photos showing detail?
As for the swedge, I would paper it on a flat surface, perpedicular to the long axis of the blade, probably up to 600 grit. Tape the paper down and move just the knife.
Can you post more photos showing detail?
As for the swedge, I would paper it on a flat surface, perpedicular to the long axis of the blade, probably up to 600 grit. Tape the paper down and move just the knife.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 1,593
That went very well thank you! having a hard surface as support for the sandpaper really made it possible to keep the sharp lines of the swedge/blade intact. I started with 400, 600 then 1000. Polished it with more metalpolish and it's perfect right now.if it was me i'd have just lined it up with the 12ga
how'd you go with the sand paper on the swedge?
I actually did it while holding both in my hands, so I could keep a better eye on the angles so I wouldn't ruin the grind where the swedge meets the side of the blade.
About the tip, I guess I only lost 1mm of it and the extreme tip is a little less pointy. Webcam pics don't do it any good, but here ya go
check out the polish on the spine
thanks again for all the great tips guys
Attachments
peppercorn
Regular Dude
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2009
- Messages
- 2,912
^^ +1, what he said:thumbup::thumbup:
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2005
- Messages
- 10,038
Good work zyhano. I'd rather have a blade that bends instead of breaks :thumbup:
ALL electronics, and such get the same treatment at my house too! I set my camera on rapid 3 frame stutter and have my wife say "GO" when she hits the shutter and I pull the trigger. I have some amazing shots of electronic carnage with my 12 ga. One of the shots always catches the explosion of the hated object!
ALL electronics, and such get the same treatment at my house too! I set my camera on rapid 3 frame stutter and have my wife say "GO" when she hits the shutter and I pull the trigger. I have some amazing shots of electronic carnage with my 12 ga. One of the shots always catches the explosion of the hated object!