How to sharpen my Pohl One Recurved blade - bohler steel knive?

M

messerschnitt

Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Messages
6
Hi,

I'm new to the forum and want to say hi i'm peter, from the netherlands and kick in the door with this folowing question:

recently i got my pohl one folder knife. g10 plain edge
(link on bottom)
it came dull out of the box so i want to sharpen it up.

i allready have some file japanese stones and can sharpen a kitchen cheff knife pretty nice by hand
but i don't know how to handle sharpening this specific type of blade.

i don't own a sharpening system but was thinking of buing a lansky stone system for this knife
however it seems to have a verry steep angle and nasty recurve.

my question at last is,

how would u sharpen it?

lansky guided system or alike
sharpmaker alike system with rods
or another way (i want to know how)

thanks for your time,

greets,peter


link: https://www.google.nl/search?q=pohl...sm=93&espv=210&q="pohl+one"+one+hand&tbm=isch
 
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For recurve blades, I use my KME sharpener with the JewelStik three-sided diamond rod made just for the system. Before that I used various grits of wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a thick (1" or 25mm) ceramic rod. You could use a piece of wooden dowel or any other hard cylindrical object, though, to wrap your sandpaper around. :thumbup:
 
As stated above the KME with the JewelStik would work great, or you could use the Spyderco Sharpmaker and simply use the corners of the triangle shaped rods...this has always worked very well for all of my recurved blades.
Best of luck!
 
G. Scott H. said:
For recurve blades, I use my KME sharpener with the JewelStik three-sided diamond rod made just for the system. Before that I used various grits of wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a thick (1" or 25mm) ceramic rod. You could use a piece of wooden dowel or any other hard cylindrical object, though, to wrap your sandpaper around. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

That was my first thought as well. Sandpaper wrapped around a cylinder would be an easy and inexpensive way to do it. The knife in the OP apparently uses N695 steel by Bohler-Uddeholm, which appears very much like 440C in composition (high carbon, higher than usual chromium, no vanadium or tungsten; therefore no ultra-hard carbides). If so, silicon carbide wet/dry paper would handle it easily.

Any of the other rod-type tools, like the Sharpmaker, etc. can be used for touch-ups and light maintenance, if desired. If I were doing it, I'd likely just stick with the sandpaper on a cylinder, with edge-trailing 'stropping' strokes. Could use the same cylinder with a piece of regular paper wrapped around it for stropping, with SiC, AlOx or green compounds. Any one, or all of these in sequence, should work well for this steel.


David
 
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Peter, I made a strop of leather cemented around a length of 1 inch (25mm) diameter PVC. I have a slightly recurved ZT that I want to keep the razor edge on. My strop, of course, is only to keep an already sharp edge sharp. It also works on non-recurved as well if you have no other strop. I have a Sharpmaker and as said above, the corner of the rod should work well for you if you should choose that system. I tried to upload a pic of my strop but my membership won't allow that...sorry.
 
Stand Straight said:
Peter, I made a strop of leather cemented around a length of 1 inch (25mm) diameter PVC. I have a slightly recurved ZT that I want to keep the razor edge on. My strop, of course, is only to keep an already sharp edge sharp. It also works on non-recurved as well if you have no other strop. I have a Sharpmaker and as said above, the corner of the rod should work well for you if you should choose that system. I tried to upload a pic of my strop but my membership won't allow that...sorry.
Click to expand...

You can use a photo-hosting site like photobucket to link & display your pics in your posts. Don't have to be a paying member to do it. Just upload your pics to the hosting site, copy the 'IMG' url from each pic's page (most will prominently display the URL in convenient form for copying), and paste the copied url into your post here, using the BF editor. The greater advantage in using a hosting site is, you are no longer limited as to the size/number of pics you post here (within reason, at least).


David
 
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Thank David!
Here Peter. Just an idea of what can be done. The leather looks rough but it's sanded and quite smooth. PVC was the first thing I grabbed. Wood dowels are good too.
 
:) thanks again. more tools to make so i read.
i got my lansky stone kit in and did 2 knives, not that bad. this weekend i'm gonna make the tubular strop and tubular sandpaper rods.
then i will give it a go on the pohl one. photo bucket account set up. ready to post.
 
Hi all, the tools I made and used. Using lansky got it reasonably sharp now.
Still thinking about the spyderco. Maby it's the angle,still not low enough .
Need to take off much metal then. Is reprofiling a good idea on a sharp maker?





Ps. Made a video also,
http://youtu.be/kbSYswv3r4k

Regards, peter
 
Hello everyone Reading this,

Sorry to bump this old post of mine but I still struggle to get it sharp.

I now have a set of flat sharpening stones and a lansky stone system,
Also already made some pvc tubes with sandpaper and also used a kitchen ceramic / diamond steel
And am very careful when I touch it up but never get a razor edge.

On a side note, I think of reprofiling it to a 15 degree angle because maybe the factory edge is to steep for it to get realy sharp? Or the steel is to hard for the tools?

Where to begin... Anyone have this knife or sharpened a similar recurve?
It is a pretty steep recurve I think.

I love to hear your thoughts on my questions.

Greets from The Netherlands.

Ms,
 
messerschnitt said:
Hello everyone Reading this,

Sorry to bump this old post of mine but I still struggle to get it sharp.

I now have a set of flat sharpening stones and a lansky stone system,
Also already made some pvc tubes with sandpaper and also used a kitchen ceramic / diamond steel
And am very careful when I touch it up but never get a razor edge.

On a side note, I think of reprofiling it to a 15 degree angle because maybe the factory edge is to steep for it to get realy sharp? Or the steel is to hard for the tools?

Where to begin... Anyone have this knife or sharpened a similar recurve?
It is a pretty steep recurve I think.

I love to hear your thoughts on my questions.

Greets from The Netherlands.

Ms,
Click to expand...

I'd start with the assumption in bold type above, and go from there. Thinning the edge grind to 30° inclusive (15° per side) or lower will always improve how a particular blade cuts. Most modern/tactical folders of this style (with thick/heavy blades) come with equally thick factory edge grinds, and never (or seldom) cut as well as they could or should. The hard part is going to be the thick blade itself; usually, a lot of steel needs to come off, to thin the edge grind. That'll take a while, but if you're patient about it, the results will be worth the time spent.


David
 
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