How to sharpen recurves?

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

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Jul 20, 2012
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Title says it all. May purchase a recurve knife in the future, but before I do such a thing, I need to know how to sharpen it.

- Bladenoobie1
 
If the edge is already in pretty good shape and a simple, occasional touch-up is the only need, a ceramic rod works well for these. If more work is needed, some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a rod, dowel or other cylindrical object (pipe, broomstick, jar, etc) would be my first choice. Use edge-trailing strokes with the sandpaper, as in stropping.

I've linked the photo of the knife from the OP's referenced link here:
DSC_0617.jpg
 
That doesn't appear to be any more recurved than my Benchmade 710, and I sharpen that on an EdgePro. In fact, unless the blade has a serious recurve, like a karambit or a kris, the EdgePro does a very nice job. For those I use wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a 1" dowel.


Stitchawl
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
Why can't you use leading strokes?
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It's more likely to dig into and/or cut the paper, if done edge-leading. With experience, and if the paper is firmly glued or otherwise 'stuck' to a firm surface, edge-leading can be used with very light pressure. But if just learning the technique, when angle and pressure control are less precise, edge-leading will more than likely result in a duller edge on sandpaper, and will also cut/tear it.


David
 
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I have a huge selection of recurves, reverse S blades, and Hawkbills along with some very unusual stuff like my dearly beloved Spyderco Captain. For the most part I've used the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker with a lot of success on many of the recurves, reverse S and Hawkbills.

For some of the more challenging jobs I've used Spyderco's 701 Profile set. I mainly use the Profile set on my Spyderco Captain model and the 2 Matriarch models I have also.

So far those have worked for me but I'm always looking to new tools to make life easier. I've heard that DMT once had a arch-like tool that worked in their ALIGNER system that a lot of guys had good luck with.

I've also heard that many of those diamond impregnated steels are great to use on curved and recurved blades.
 
What do you guys thing about paper wheels when it comes to recurves?

I actually do have a sharpmaker, I think its great for microbevels--anything other than that, I prefer to use something else. The corners have small chips in them so I'm not so sure how well it will work with recurves. Generally I use the flats only.
 
Seems like I'm missing something.

I don't see where the OP designated a particular knife. That's why I asked what he was looking at.

The blade OWE showed could easily be sharpened on an EP, or just about any guided machine.

I don't ever recommend paper wheels. Too many better alternatives. I know there are a few who would disagree, but even a $40 belt machine is much more versatile.

Ceramic rods would work as well, but would be best for maintenance, and not so hot for profiling.

JMHO
 
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(...)I don't see where the OP designated a particular knife. That's why I asked what he was looking at. (...)
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The OP originally linked to a dealer site (since edited out), which had a pic of the knife in question. That's the pic I linked from, in my post.


David
 
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stitchawl said:
That doesn't appear to be any more recurved than my Benchmade 710, and I sharpen that on an EdgePro. In fact, unless the blade has a serious recurve, like a karambit or a kris, the EdgePro does a very nice job. For those I use wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a 1" dowel.


Stitchawl
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That is a great and accurate answer in many ways. The ZT0300 series, Blurs, Benchmade 710s are much more of a recurve than the Norseman. Buy yourself a Sharpmaker, watch the DVD, follow the instructions to the letter, and practice on old kitchen knives first. Sharpening efficient is not hard to do, however, you need lots of patience and lots of practice. You will not get a perfect edge your first, second or even third try.
 
So could I get a suitable rig with just sand paper wrapped around a cardboard tube? or pringles can?
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
So could I get a suitable rig with just sand paper wrapped around a cardboard tube? or pringles can?
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Give it a try. Practice on some other knives first, to get a feel for it. Even straight-edged blades can be sharpened this way, if you don't already have a recurve. There's very little to lose in experimenting with this method (it's dirt cheap, for materials), and a lot to be gained, if some quality time is invested. I'd recommend using a cylinder that's pretty firm/hard, so there's no chance of it collapsing or folding/bending. Much easier to keep the edges fine & true, when using a firmer backing.

Regarding the sandpaper, if you're wanting to maintain a polished edge (or nearly so), 1000/2000 grit and higher will be best for that. If more work is needed to restore the edge, going back down to 400-800 grit should work. Make sure it's the 'wet/dry' type (black or grey silicon carbide, and some are aluminum oxide abrasive).


David
 
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I do have a sharpmaker and I find it good just for touching up edges. I usually just strop my knives after use to keep them in good shape.

I'll practice with sandpaper on some cheaper knives and see the results I get. I have been looking at the edge pro, but I probably won't grab one in at least a long time.
 
I have a few large choppers with recurve blades. To get them in the ballpark, i use my 1"x30" belt sander. Then a few swipes on my butchers steel & jumbo ceramic stick does the trick.
 
"crimp down one side so you have somewhat of a square corner so you can sharpen the plunge line area of the blade"

What do you mean by this in the post you made?
 
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