How to stop stacked handle from coming apart while shaping?

[Leon Husock]

Whenever I glue up a multi-piece handle, especially if it has any metal bolsters or spacers, and try to shape it on the grinder, the epoxy fails from the heat. Is there a way around this? Or do I just need to grind in very short bursts and then cool it off in water?

 

[Carterwhopkins]

Use fresh/good quality sand paper and go slow...it takes patience and sometimes knowing when to walk away. Not knowing your handle materials, water may not be a good choice. I often put my warm/hot handles on the cast iron table of my disc sander, it acts as a heat sink, or hold in in front of the A/C. If you are able to position part of the handle on a work rest for the tool, it will help support the handle. I use a 12" disc for much of my handle work, the table supports the handle and lessens the shearing action...if you are contouring handles on a 2x72 with a slack belt, you really just need to support the handle with your hands as best you can.

 

[Will52100]

Sharp belts and go slow, take your time. I also grind bar handed and when I feel things getting warm I stop and let it cool down. When doing a stacked leather handle it's easy enough to burn the leather if using worn belts and high speed.

 

[john april]

go slow and dip the handle.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I drill a hole through all the pieces and assemble them on a brass rod. After the epoxy cures, I punch out the rod and replace it with a threaded rod, washers, and nuts. This will clamp the stacked pieces together for shaping. When done remove the threaded rod and assemble on the tang.

 

[Heli00]

I drill a hole through all the pieces and assemble them on a brass rod. After the epoxy cures, I punch out the rod and replace it with a threaded rod, washers, and nuts. This will clamp the stacked pieces together for shaping. When done remove the threaded rod and assemble on the tang.

I guess this would work for full tang scales, but what about hidden tangs where you can't drill all the way through the block ?

Or am I not understanding this properly?

Thanks,
Constantin

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

On a hidden tang stacked handle, drill out the pieces that will hold the tang with 5/16"holes. Make a clamp jig from a wood clamp with a piece of 1/4" round stock sticking through one jaw. Drill the jaw so the rod is a slip fit. Wax the rod heavily by dipping in parafin or beeeswax so the epoxy won't bond to it. Wax the ends of the clamp, too. Slide the epoxied pieces with holes on the rod and then start stacking the undrilled ones on. Tighten the clamp to hold it all snug.

Another method for a hidden tang is a faux through tang. Make the handle like I said with the hole all the way through. Shape it as desired while on the mandrel. Remove the handle assembly from the threaded rod.
Cut a 2" to 3" piece of 1/4" mild steel rod.
Drill a piece of steel plate with a 1/4" hole and put the rod through the hole. Clamp the rod in the vice so only about 1/8" sticks past the plate.
Peen the rod end to the desired shape. Tap the rod out of the plate and clean up the end. Check how the peened rod fits the 1/4"hole through the butt cap. Cut the rod length as needed so the rod will go in the handle up to where the tang stops. Glue the rod in the butt cap when assembling the handle on the tang.

 

[Heli00]

On a hidden tang stacked handle, drill out the pieces that will hold the tang with 5/16"holes. Make a clamp jig from a wood clamp with a piece of 1/4" round stock sticking through one jaw. Drill the jaw so the rod is a slip fit. Wax the rod heavily by dipping in parafin or beeeswax so the epoxy won't bond to it. Wax the ends of the clamp, too. Slide the epoxied pieces with holes on the rod and then start stacking the undrilled ones on. Tighten the clamp to hold it all snug.

Another method for a hidden tang is a faux through tang. Make the handle like I said with the hole all the way through. Shape it as desired while on the mandrel. Remove the handle assembly from the threaded rod.
Cut a 2" to 3" piece of 1/4" mild steel rod.
Drill a piece of steel plate with a 1/4" hole and put the rod through the hole. Clamp the rod in the vice so only about 1/8" sticks past the plate.
Peen the rod end to the desired shape. Tap the rod out of the plate and clean up the end. Check how the peened rod fits the 1/4"hole through the butt cap. Cut the rod length as needed so the rod will go in the handle up to where the tang stops. Glue the rod in the butt cap when assembling the handle on the tang.

Great, thanks Stacy!