How to store a fixed blade in your car trunk?

It may never or may take several years for it to actually crack or damage the wood if that's your handle material preference. And I'm not sure what a set of scales would cost to replace from Lion Steel but shouldn't be crazy expensive.

And if you want to try with the wood ... I would recommend taking the wooden scales off and getting a small can of wood sealant ... similiar to what would be used on a wooden deck and seal the scales ... you may ask a knife maker here if they have something they would recommend ... or a building contractor you trust.

I am like you I prefer wood or Micarta myself so I can relate. And I'm sure there are several craftsmen on here that could make you a set of micarta scales if you wanted.

Just a thought that may be worth looking into if you prefer to leave the wood scales on.
 
How else should I store it?
You have got a few good replys ,If you are mostly concerned with the handle I might coat it in blo, then store it in a plastic ziplock. Still checking on it once a month or so.
As far as I'm concerned the lionsteel is far to nice a knife to be locked up in the trunk, I would want to use it.
 
This is just a misinformed opinion. I have several synthetic and metal handle axes, hawks, and hatchets that have worked fine for decades, just as well if not better than my wood handled ones. That is my opinion gained through personal experience.

When stating an opinion it is important not to present it as fact, especially if you are using put downs by calling someone else's opinion crap or that what they suggest sucks. That's just not respectful discourse.

Lord_Balkan Lord_Balkan Other than what I already suggested above I would seriously consider replacing that M4 blade with leather sheath to something stainless with a synthetic sheath, especially because it sounds like this blade is for longtime storage with infrequent to no use.
I thought I was presenting this as an opinion because I didn't say things like " they're known to be inferior " give examples why they suck, but maybe I should've been more clear.
I entered my post in a hurry, but if he's not familiar with axes / hatchets...ect he could go out and buy something with a fiberglass handle not knowing that he might have a problem with the feel during use.
 
Ohhh reeaally?

Fiskars makes one hell of a splitting axe for a great price.


How are vintage hatchets better?
Is there any proof to go along with that opinion or is this some sort of "hipster" thing?
I'm not a hipster so I wouldn't know, but there are facts that make them better.
Fiskars axes are made of plastic and steel that's a little too soft, their bits are too thick, and the handles which have broken on people can't be replaced.
Vintage hatchets generally have much better steel, have much better bit profiles, they have convex cheeks which help them stick less and split better, and they have or take wood hafts that can be shaped to fit your hand better which you can't do with hollow plastic.

Fiskars axes work and there's a reason they sell , but axe people know their are far far better options available.

This thread is about keeping a knife maintained, so I shouldn't have even mentioned it and am going to leave this thread alone so it can stay on topic.
 
If the wood handles are the primary concern, what about replacing them with something like Iron Wood or another very dense wood.
It's the expansion, and contraction you have to worry about so a new set of dense/stabilized handles should fit the bill.

I use epoxy thinned with toluene to soak my wood pieces (marine environments).
When thinned to a water like consistency, and allowed to soak for several hours the wood will actually take, and hold fine machine threads.

I've been experimenting with scales, and having great results with this process.
 
If anyone hasn't mentioned it yet, I'd try Obenaufs Heavy Duty LP on every part of the knife including the leather sheath.

The 4oz container is plenty unless you have a lot of knives to treat.
 
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