How to store finished blades?

J

J.Babody

Joined
Nov 11, 2013
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113
I was just watching nicks video on touch up sanding and an idea popped into my head, but didn't want to hijack his thread. How do you fellas typically store your finished blades that don't have a home yet? I've never had multiple finished blades around until recently, and I'm trying to find the best way to keep them from getting marked up as I travel with them and what not. As it sits I just oil them and wrap them in a paper towel and it's not really working to keep things organized.

I did buy a cheap aluminum/plastic case from harbor freight this past weekend, but I'm having trouble trying to find the best way to keep the knives to stay put, stay separate, and be easy to identify. Also, I would like to fit as many blades into the smallest amount of space I can. I was considering stacking layers of peel and pluck foam and seperating each layer into individual sections , but wasn't sure if that would affect the blades. I know open cell foam holds moisture and can cause rust, but didn't know if some silica packs could eliminate that problem. I know I'm over thinking this problem, so maybe you guys can help me get through this brain fart!

Justin
 
Obviously from your post, you are asking about the storage of knives with carbon steel blades. Most people lightly oil them and store them in a climate controlled environment. Look into a case similar to what is shown below for ease of transport or organization.

MER30429M.jpg


Luckily, my knives all have stainless steel blades, and I just store them indoors . . . and in their leather sheaths.

Mike L.
 
Yes I'm referring to carbon blades, looking to start with some stainless soon now that i have an oven. I just worry about cases like those because I feel as if the blades can easily dislodge or move around and get banged up. I don't want to have to use nicks advice just from storing them :p. Although I have seen the pouch style cases that roll up and seem more secure, it seems far less professional IMO. I want to try to stick to a briefcase type arrangement for multiple reasons but want the blades stored VERY securely. Even with the blade in the sheath, where does it go? Just a drawer somewhere, a safe, or some type of container? I doubt you just leave a bunch of sheathed knives laying around the house! Or maybe I'm the only one that can hang onto a knife so long :o...

Mainly, I suppose I'm wondering if the peel and pluck foam would scratch the blades or cause surface rust. If so, I'm thinking I'll have to make my own trays and line them with something else. The case I bought already has a layer of the foam, and I could make 2 more that could pull out. Obviously that's the easiest method and I could store quite a few blades that way, just don't want the effort to go to waste. I would hate to proudly open the case to show someone a bunch of marred blades.

Justin
 
Tie a tag to each knife to identify it.

A foam cut-out would work for your rigid case, but if isn't not very flexible for future shapes.

I have a handgun/range bag which has a large quantity of pockets inside which will accommodate at least 15 typical handgun magazines. I've used it for transporting multiple knives and their sheaths.

I'd suggest a cloth/felt lined magazine storage bag/pouch/roll. You may need to wrap the blade in a very lightly oiled cloth while it is stored in the case or storage roll.

I'll bug out and and let others give their more experienced replies regarding the storage of carbon steel blades.

Mike
 
You could have put this in that other thread, would have fit well IMHO. :)

As per your main question--- it's pretty much impossible to beat Bill's Custom Cases.

As far as my poor storage issues....


That was my fault on those blades. I thought I was going to be able to get back to work on them a lot sooner than I was able to, so I didn't prep them for sitting idle as long as they did.

First thing is to make sure the steel is clean... a quick wash with dish detergent and warm water works better than anything. Then a dry thoroughly, then give the blade a nice coating of a high quality protetctant. I have found that here in SW Washington, the best product is Ballistol. (and no, my blade that got some little spots on it, did not have any Ballistol on it ;)).


If it's a really finely finished blade (like a clay hardened blade that is going to be bedded or sit in a drawer for a long time) I coat the damn thing with bearing grease. It's a PITA to put on and take off, but you could park the knife at the beach with no worry of rusting on you.

I've never had much luck with the various waxes. Like RenWax, lots of folks swear by it, so maybe I just did something wrong, but I've had blades coated in it...rust.
 
NickWheeler said:
You could have put this in that other thread, would have fit well IMHO. :)

As per your main question--- it's pretty much impossible to beat Bill's Custom Cases.

As far as my poor storage issues....


That was my fault on those blades. I thought I was going to be able to get back to work on them a lot sooner than I was able to, so I didn't prep them for sitting idle as long as they did.

First thing is to make sure the steel is clean... a quick wash with dish detergent and warm water works better than anything. Then a dry thoroughly, then give the blade a nice coating of a high quality protetctant. I have found that here in SW Washington, the best product is Ballistol. (and no, my blade that got some little spots on it, did not have any Ballistol on it ;)).


If it's a really finely finished blade (like a clay hardened blade that is going to be bedded or sit in a drawer for a long time) I coat the damn thing with bearing grease. It's a PITA to put on and take off, but you could park the knife at the beach with no worry of rusting on you.

I've never had much luck with the various waxes. Like RenWax, lots of folks swear by it, so maybe I just did something wrong, but I've had blades coated in it...rust.
Click to expand...


Those cases look very nice, I'll have to give that fellow a call soon. Seems like I could find a lot of uses for having them around anyway. I always forget about zippered pouches, and could easily just throw them into the hard case so they don't get misplaced.

I have used ballistol for my guns, I'm surprised I never put two and two together. As I said, I usually don't have them laying around except during construction, and in that case I just throw some motor oil that I use with my drill press on it until I get to it again (damn day job). The few I have finished right now got a light coat of remoil and a paper towel wrap lol! It's mildly embarrassing when I unwrap a paper towel to show people a knife I am very proud of :o

The bearing grease made me laugh because we have a guy at work that will HEAVILY coat any bare metal that's going outside in grease, even if he's just going to continue the job in 12 more hours. Spends more time cleaning the grease than he does working on the project :p I understand why you use it, but me and grease always leads to a big mess. It's one the most dreaded parts of my job.

I bought my HT oven from a local maker and we spent some time talking shop. We were discussing wet formed sheaths and he uses ren-wax to coat the blade for the process and also for storage. I'm sure it works for him, he had some beautiful knives, but I have a feeling I would screw that up as well. Haven't tried it so I can't really say, but I always have oils by the bounty and it works!

Justin
 
Anyone ever use VCI paper? It is supposed to be corrosion inhibiting. I found a 1ft. X 600 ft. roll for about 38 bucks online. If it works, that is short money to prevent those pesky rust spots that pop up...especially since I live a short distance from the ocean.
 
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Having fought the rust for the first two years, and gave up, an idea popped into my head just now, what if you were to seal the finished/unfinished blades in a vacuum bag like you would use for veggies and meat...remove the oxygen and rust cant happen, double seal them with a 2nd bag and they should take a bit of abuse with out loosing vacuum

You could take this a step further and give the blades a coat of WD and toss in a silica pouch
 
John Katt said:
Having fought the rust for the first two years, and gave up, an idea popped into my head just now, what if you were to seal the finished/unfinished blades in a vacuum bag like you would use for veggies and meat...remove the oxygen and rust cant happen, double seal them with a 2nd bag and they should take a bit of abuse with out loosing vacuum

You could take this a step further and give the blades a coat of WD and toss in a silica pouch
Click to expand...


That. Is. Brilliant. I actually have a vacuum sealer, so I may just have to give this a try one day soon. Plus it would provide excellent protection against scratches while still being able to see the knife relatively clearly. Won't be able to get a feel for the knife, but for long term storage I really like this idea.

Justin
 
I have one too, And I just happen to have some truck spring pieces and some 1095 sitting around doing nothing, both will rust in a mad second if you even think about moisture

The only problem I can see is the loss of vacuum
 
glassguy said:
My experience with a vacuum sealer is that sharp points poke holes in the bag.
Click to expand...

Just like a bad date... Double bag that bad boy! I'm just kidding, I was wondering if there would be a way to keep the edge and tip away from the bag. Maybe some of that material that comes in jewelery boxes and some careful handling would work. Who knows, I'm just spit balling here. Although, maybe I could find some plastic vacuum containers that would be long and thin enough for a blade.

Justin
 
I swear by heavy mineral oil. I have not had a problem since I started using it several years ago. I have abandoned blades hanging in my shop that do not have a spot on them even though I battle against rusting machines, anvils and vices in this East Coast salty air.

Why I haven't thought til now, to wipe them down with mineral oil, is probably not surprising to folks who know me.... derp!
 
I typically wipe my finished blades with alcohol (to remove any moisture) and put clear packing tape on both sides to protect from scratches. They hang on the wall to remind me I have more work to do. Jess
 
I spray with WD40 (which has mineral oil) wrap and in Graingers catalog paper( no scratches tape and spray paper with wd40.

No rust since I started doing this.
 
Just started my knife collection, but already have more than I can regularly use and a few (collectibles) which I'll never use.

To be clear, I have blades both untreated as well as those coated with TI, TN and TO (claimed by manufacturers). A few Damascus also.

Salt in the air here. I have developed a routine to protect my firearms, some of which fit into "airtight" (no such thing) ammo boxes. Also, all ammo goes into those gasket-sealed boxes along with a small bag of homemade dessicant (new type crystal cat litter).

Absent better ideas (sure would like to here from others here), I make sure that the metal portions are coated (I happen to be an Eezox fan from gundom), woods and scale materials well-treated with Renaissance Wax (which is miraculous stuff and could be used for ANY coatable material) and then placed into the above-mentioned "airtight" ammo boxes with dessicant bags. Those bags are check semi-annually for moisture, replaced when necessary.

BTW, read alot of credible research into gun care to absolutely avoid silicon products of all types (applied or impregnated). I am far from a chemist though.

Question: Anyone know if petroleum-based or synthetic oils "eat" those claimed black titanium coatings on blades?
 
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