How to store fixed blade knives

[Mister Coffee]

Beak-Free CLP has done a fantastic job on my guns for the last 40 years. 40 years is pretty long.

 

[AntDog]

Nothing wrong with breakfree or mineral oil or basically any kind of lube or wax. I put on a light coat of mineral oil, stick em in the sheath and don’t worry about it. Most of my sheaths are kydex which is beneficial in this aspect.

The only time I’ve seen fixed blades rust in storage they were stored in leather sheaths for years and went in dry. Came out red.

 

[Andrew George]

I coat mine in Blue Lube and keep them in their sheaths inside a drawer with silica packets in the drawers. It’s worked well for me up to this point.

 

[Shrub]

Thanks a lot it is of very help! If they are leather I should stay away from storing the knife inside the sheath right?

My experience with leather sheaths has been, as long as you keep water out of them, you should be good. If you live in a moist environment maybe coat them in a good quality shoe polish once in a while. It helps keep any moisture from absorbing. As long as they're well maintained and dry, I've never had any problems with leather sheaths. I just choose kydex by preference.

 

[Mister Coffee]

Obenauf's for leather. Remarkable stuff.

 

[shane45-1911]

Here's a (crappy) pic of what I was trying to describe in my earlier post....

 

[afishhunter]

I store mine in the sheath, in a drawer or cabinet.
Sheaths are either "ballistic" nylon canvas, old leather, or in the case of my Mora's, whatever plastic it is they use, unless I have an after market leather sheath for it.
I might try making a wood sheath for my 1800's style Russell Green River hunting knife, if I ever get around to putting scales on it.

I haven't had corrosion issues. After use I clean, dry, and lightly oil the blade.
Knives are 1095, whatever Mora's carbon steel is, 1.4116 Krupp, 440A, and 420HC.

 

[johnfbkennedyy]

Exactly.

Storing in any container where they lay on a foam layer is a sure way to develop rust. Storing touching leather invites verdigris, especially if there's any brass involved.

I highly recommend using renwax on anything you're storing for more than a few months.

Awesome these look awesome, where could I get one? Thanks in advance

 

[johnfbkennedyy]

Here's a (crappy) pic of what I was trying to describe in my earlier post....

Thanks! Looks nice! Thanks for the picture

 

[johnfbkennedyy]

I store my fixed blade knives in a large lock cabinet. In their sheaths with a coating of oil.
Here's the cabinet.

https://imgur.com/a/I3lTzpW

Looks cool! Thanks

 

[johnfbkennedyy]

Beak-Free CLP has done a fantastic job on my guns for the last 40 years. 40 years is pretty long.

Should this be used on stainless steel knives? Thanks in advance

 

[johnfbkennedyy]

Nothing wrong with breakfree or mineral oil or basically any kind of lube or wax. I put on a light coat of mineral oil, stick em in the sheath and don’t worry about it. Most of my sheaths are kydex which is beneficial in this aspect.

The only time I’ve seen fixed blades rust in storage they were stored in leather sheaths for years and went in dry. Came out red.

Should I also oil stainless steel blades? Thanks!

 

[AntDog]

Should I also oil stainless steel blades? Thanks!

Yes. Anything that’s going to be stored and not used for a while should get coated, stainless or not. Stainless can get pretty bad pepper spots even though it tends not to rust or pit as easily as carbon steels.

 

[eveled]

The brass turns green when stored touching leather. I store all my knives in their sheaths without any trouble with the blades.

My Randall’s are store separately out of their sheaths, beachside the brass or nickel silver corrodes any place it touches the leather. Not sure if it’s how the leather is tanned or what.

 

[J85909266]

I oil them if they are carbon steel, stick them in the sheath, and stick them in like a closet if I'm not using them.

 

[comis]

Op, there are already a good number of suggestions, so just two more cents from me:

1) From my experience with carbon blades and knives collecting, I think number one priority for knife storage is temperature and humidity control. If you could store it in container/area that has some air flow, kept in a stable, relatively dry and low humidity area, the collection will be less problem prone. Btw, if you see any desiccant pack that comes with the knife package, please do discard them since once saturated, all they do is to hold moisture and may even rust the blade.

2) Like many have suggested, kept the knives apart from the leather sheath. And I would humbly suggest not to put anything that could potentially trap moisture around the metal(no carpet, valvet, cloth, leather), so less chance for rust/oxidation.

3) Ren wax. For blades that you tend not to use often, a light coat of Ren wax does do wonder.

4) Away from sunlight. Direct sunlight will often affect the handle or the leather sheath of the knife, it tends to blench out the color or even crack any organic handle material, and it may make the handle uneven in color from side to side.

 

[eisman]

where could I get one?

The green ones I have were made by a company called Safari. I'm not sure if they are still around. Bills Custom Cases are who I get them from now. There's also Robbins Custom Cases, but I have not used them.

If you don't need the bands for a the sheath Ace Case makes a number of sizes and they're not as expensive.

I usually buy 20+ at a time so that helps a little with the costs.

 

[The Mastiff]

I'm in the Rennisance wax group. I have a bunch stored for years with no corrosion. In or out of leather sheath makes no difference when the steel is sealed.

 

[Mister Coffee]

Should this be used on stainless steel knives? Thanks in advance

I'm not an expert — on knives, lube or anything else — but I have used Break-Free CLP on stainless steel, blued steel and Parkerized steel. No problems so far.

 

[Mister Coffee]

In or out of leather sheath makes no difference when the steel is sealed.

I don't know about Renaissance wax — of course, I've heard of it, and I know it comes recommended by people who are a lot smarter than me — but the above statement makes sense. If you have a protective barrier on the steel (e.g., lube, wax, grease), it shouldn't matter what you store it in.

I love threads like this, but let's not over-think things. I have an old stainless Buck folder that I have done nothing to, and it has not rusted. I also have an even older Boker Tree folder that must have high carbon steel in it given the way the blade has aged. I have done nothing to the Boker Tree, and it has not rusted. According to WikiPedia, Renaissance wax was developed in the 1950s by the British Museum. If you are building a museum-level collection, then put on your clean, white cotton gloves and have at it. But if you just want to use your knives and maintain them, keep it simple and you should be fine.