How to test a firebrick

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Feb 16, 2010
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I have a potential source of new bricks, but they are unmarked and very different from what I'm used to. They are grey, seemingly cement coated instead of the normal light tan or white. I need to verify that they can hold up to the heat. I'm thinking that they may or may not be acid resistant.

Any suggestions on how to test these bricks? I'm not sure that building a forge out of the samples that I have is sufficient.


PS Yes, they are soft firebrick.
 
A firebrick is a specialized type of brick. They don't cost much and any brick yard ought to have some. I bought one for making a one brick forge (Wayne Goddard book).
 
I'd probably just build a forge with it and run it hot for a few hours. See how the brick holds up, how quickly it heats and cools, etc...

Run a regular forge side by side with it and compare temps with a thermocouple at various stages.

Let it heat and cool completely a few times, and check for any cracking.
 
I've got 6 bricks as a sample, and it was free. However, I need to test it a bit harder than the average forge can.

Two identical forges with different bricks and test the outer shell temp. Should be a decent test for K rating, yes?





See, just typing out the question helps me get to some answers sometimes.
 
Assuming you are intending to use them to build forges, any test not involving building and running a forge made from them would seem to have limited value.

Thermal shock resistance is a big consideration, though it is quite hard to test this in an accelerated manner because the cool-down time is so long.

I've had some IFB that is prone to melting at temperatures not very far above their rated temperature. If you are on 2300-grade IFB and hitting welding temperatures, this may be an issue.

In your shoes, I'd build an Atlas to compare surface temperatures with another one and probably a Graham using half normal and half sample bricks to see how they compare in a true side-by-side comparison.
 
Aaargh! They melted right at 2000°F. Didn't take long either, they walls just started getting sticky and pits formed on their own.
 
I get the feeling you guys think I'm trying to be cheap. Maybe. Then again, you're free to compare my prices AND quality against any other forge maker out there. Only a fool wouldn't test newly available materials.
 
I get the feeling you guys think I'm trying to be cheap. Maybe. Then again, you're free to compare my prices AND quality against any other forge maker out there. Only a fool wouldn't test newly available materials.

I definitely don't think you're trying to be cheap. I think you're being smart. Any successful business must make sure they're getting the best deal on their supplies. The first thing you did after getting the new product was test it to make sure it was up to your standard. If you weren't business minded and were cheap then you certainly wouldn't post this thread. You'd just use the bad bricks and send the forges out.

When I said Tanstaafl I was saying it, as a fellow business owner, empathizing with you.
 
I wasn't implying that at all and I hope you didn't take my comment that way. As a business owner it would be foolish to not seek out materials that, as long as they are of the same quality, were cheaper. And anytime you change materials or any process you should thoroughly test it. You did test it and it didn't pass your standards. That's why I said tough luck.
I get the feeling you guys think I'm trying to be cheap. Maybe. Then again, you're free to compare my prices AND quality against any other forge maker out there. Only a fool wouldn't test newly available materials.
 
Aaargh! They melted right at 2000°F. Didn't take long either, they walls just started getting sticky and pits formed on their own.
Maybe an acceptable brick for an annealing oven?

Don't suppose you would sell some of your current firebricks, Im looking for a k23 or k26 rated firebrick. I live in Ames, Ia and I'm hoping to find a local source of firebricks for an electric heat treat oven build.

Thanks
Bob
 
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