How useful is a buffer in knifemaking?

a buffer grabs everything, nothing is immune.

You can not put a VFD on a HF buffer. To do that you would need a 3 phase motor
 
AVigil said:
You can not put a VFD on a HF buffer. To do that you would need a 3 phase motor
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Hmmm. I am new to VFD’s, and so did not realize they are mostly constrained to 3-phase motors. After a little research i understand.

You DO realize you have just dashed all my plans for several pieces of equipment don't you ??? :-)
 
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Ocelot85 said:
If you can get one cheap why don't you build a buffing assembly with step pulley's and a 1725 RPM motor?
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Not a bad idea. I guess i still need to decide whether to even go there if buffers are still “grabby” even on handles. (But then why are people saying they buff handles but not blades, when both are grabby, and you still have a sharp projectile flying - unless the blade is well wrapped and cushioned, and that somehow “feels” safer? Sorry if i am being dense about this.
 
Cushing H. said:
then why are people saying they buff handles but not blades, when both are grabby,
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Good morning, all.
I'm not sure if this answers your question, but just this week I finally set up an old grinder with a buffing disc(?) to use on my stabilized blocks, and in my limited experience, the buffer can grab anything with a corner, if I got the 90 degree corner turned up too far, digging it into the wheel. I didn't have that problem if there was a bevel on the block. Most shaped handles are rounded, and with no corners to dig in, there's nothing to grab (unless pushed too far into the disc, I suppose).
I'm sure those who use buffers on blades are EXTREMELY careful when buffing the front of handle where it meets the blade.

Those of you with more experience using buffers, feel free to correct my response as appropriate.
 
I’ve recently started using a variable speed buffer with paper wheels for sharpening. The paper wheels say they are most effective at 3000-3600 rpm, but I’ve been using them with my buffer turned all the way down (around 1750-2000) and it’s been a total game changer for my sharpening.
 
I know Loveless did shiny buffed finishes and it's good for corrosion prevention.

but

When I think buffing, all I can picture is the thousands of amatuer knives ground to 220 grit then buffed to death to a shiny scratchy finish.
 
I built a buffer attachment for my 2x72 that has been absolutely great.
I took down the post because people had some complaints about how it could grab and a couple other criticisms about it, but I realize that they say the same thing of every buffer post lol.
It is variable speed and has been fantastic!
I use it on just about every knife.
 
Buffers are no more dangerous than forges, hot metal, torches, power hammers, or grinders. They have a learning curve just like all tools.
They can also be used with hard wheels like felt or leather for polishing steel.
I'm genuinely amazed at how scared you guys are of them.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Buffers are no more dangerous than forges, hot metal, torches, power hammers, or grinders. They have a learning curve just like all tools.
They can also be used with hard wheels like felt or leather for polishing steel.
I'm genuinely amazed at how scared you guys are of them.
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I learned in high school shop how to use a buffer, if high school students can learn to use a buffer then so should a knifemaker.

People need to take time and learn how to buff properly and how not to catch an edge.
 
As I once heard another maker say, "Make the buffer your b****." :cool:

Really though, just hold on firmly to the work piece and generally stay at or just below the center line of the wheel so it's only pulling the work in one direction (down and away) and so it doesn't catch you off guard and force it toward you like if you were above the center line, which might cause you to loose your grip. I'm definitely not an expert in buffing machines or even at buffing, but these two general rules have made buffing no problem for me, at least so far. Also, don't angle an edge or corner into the wheel, but instead down and away from the wheel, like if you are buffing a block of wood (for example), have the corner facing down and then buff it below the center line of the wheel. These are probably common sense for some, but perhaps helpful tips or reminders for others.

Another thing, If you need to press really hard, you probably need to refine your foundational finish with either hand sanding or on a higher grit belt, or get a harder wheel with a coarser compound. There are different grits in different compounds as well as different firmnesses and materials with the wheels, so just think of the working through the wheels as you would with working through the different belts on a belt grinder.

If you don't have a buffing rake, I've found the wire side of a file card (or even a normal wire brush) works decently for cleaning wheels in order to add fresh compound before a new project or different material. Another thing I've found works well for cleaning a wheel are used 36 grit belts (I know zirconia does anyway), which I picked up from an older YT video by Neels Van Den Berg.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
I have never owned or used a buffing wheel rake.
"Cleaning" your buff with an old belt can contaminate them and scratch your finish.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
I have never owned or used a buffing wheel rake.
"Cleaning" your buff with an old belt can contaminate them and scratch your finish.
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Good point, although the belt I've use (and pretty much all of my old and out of use belts) was well past "dead" and so any potential loose grits were completely spent, but it's more something to do if one didn't have anything else, which most likely wouldn't be the case if you had your buffing system already worked out. It's not something I'd use on a very fine wheel or on one I were using to mirror polish to a blade with, which I honestly don't do anyway, but for a general duty wheel it seemed fine. But you're right, it's not the best tool for the job, just something that could work in a pinch and has worked well on my hard yellow wheel before in getting any junk off when experimenting with different compounds on the same wheel. My file card does the job now for my dedicated use wheels, since I don't use its wire brush side on my files anymore.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
You should only use one compound per wheel.
While you can use a coarser compound on a buff, that buff can never be "cleaned" enough to remove all of the coarser grit-so stay with the coarser compound.
 
Thanks, and I'm aware & only do use one compound per wheel. As I mentioned above it was for when I was experimenting to find out what compound(s) I liked as I had a number of them for various metals and materials etc. and so I didn't want to buy and or waste a wheel to test each one. Like I said though, it worked great for that lol.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
I use the buffer for all my handles, from day one I use it the other way around, meaning the switch is on the oposite side and I work on the top of the wheel, so in the rare case the wheel grabs whatever I'm buffing it flies away from me and not into my body...

To clean the wheels I cut pieces of a discarded bandsaw blade, hold them with a couple of locking pliers to dress the wheel


Pablo
 
I know that sounds sensible, Pablo. But it is the exact opposite of the safe way to buff. You buff on the area between 3 O'clock and 5 O'clock with the buff spinning toward you. This makes any thrown object go down and back. OSHA would shut down any shop in the USA that had a buffer or grinder running backwards. The reason is that if anything grabs, it will pull the block over the top and backwards … pulling the operator INTO the wheel.

If the grinder is on a pedestal thrown objects are not as big a worry as when one is mounted on the workbench.
 
It almost sounds like one should really set up a shooting range-type location, perhaps with some soft “catching” material painted with a target :-) . (Sorry, but that is the image that comes to mind...). Horsewright clearly has the perfect setup.

Such passion - part of me is sorry for resurrecting this thread ... but i guess discussion and debate is educational for all. I understand that there is no magic here - that capricious little arms don't randomly reach out and grab the blade (or handle) ... that it takes inattention and snagging a corner/edge. It just seems the potential downside to a moment of inattention (which we know will happen at some time) is so bad.... i am still undecided on this...

Stacy, reminder please: why for occasional buffing of handles an electric drill (run slower) with a buffing wheel in the chuck and the knife securely clamped in a vise would not be a reasonable approach?
 
Because with the way you g grip a drill, when the buff catches the blade it will pull your hand and the drill toward the knife. If the drill is in a stand or vise, when the knife catches it is pulled out of your hand. You also have much more control over a small stationary knife handle than you do over a large drill with a spinning wheel on the end.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Because with the way you g grip a drill, when the buff catches the blade it will pull your hand and the drill toward the knife. If the drill is in a stand or vise, when the knife catches it is pulled out of your hand. You also have much more control over a small stationary knife handle than you do over a large drill with a spinning wheel on the end.
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Makes sense. Ah well ... it was at least worth the question... :)
 
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