how

v-6

v-6

Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
952
when you fill your deer horn with epoxy, what kind of a rig do you have to keep the blade and the horn together without moving? pictures please.
your dealing with one that doesn't understand without pictures.
vern :confused::confused:
 
This will probably generate a lot of negative responses, but when you're limited on tools and money, you have to be creative...

The only "organic" handled knife I've worked on so far is using a warthog tusk, but I made it the same way as the few other hidden tang knives I've done. I've seen all sorts of purpose built vices and so on, and I'll probably break down and modify a bench vice someday, but for now I just use a gob of rubber bands. :D If your guard and the face of your handle are both nice and flat, you should be able to get enough tension to hold everything down with half a dozen or so stout rubber bands wrapped around several times each (tape off any sharp parts on your blade toward the guard first). I'll admit it doesn't put the same pressure to the joint as a vice, but so far all mine have come out strong with no gaps. I know it's primitive but it's been working so far.....
-Mark
 
I use a large Quick-Grip clamp. It is fast and easy. I have cut a slot in the fixed end for the blade. The guard rests against the clamp with the blade protruding through the slot. The adjustable end tightens against the handle material. You can reverse the process and put the tang through the slot for bonding a guard when using something like J-B Weld. Sorry, no camera available.
 
vern, i use 2 ton epoxy that is the 5 minute stuff. mix up the epoxy and fill the hole and drop in the blade and get it all pressed together to fit and look good all the while looking down from the top to make sure the blade is in the line i want it in. i'll then hold the knife with the blade pointing up being careful not to tilt or move the blade. i check the epoxy with my free hand to see when its getting close to being set. once i notice it getting close i apply more downward pressure until it sets. after it sets up enough not to move i remove the excess epoxy while its still soft and easy to remove. sometimes a stickpin can come in handy for this. i dont usually pin my handles in and have had no problems with any knife i done this way.
 
Here's a couple I found on Don Fogg's web site.
clamps-bothRW.jpg
 
I had not either. I made up an elaborate slotted piece of wood with all thread. It took forever to adjust. Then i came across Don's site and had to do a DUH! forehead is a little flatter after that one.
 
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