How's it looking?

V

volta

Joined
Dec 28, 2010
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Howdy knife-makers. I recently procured some tools and some of Aldo's 1084 in hopes of making some knives. I've been wanting to do this for a long time and i'm having a blast so far. The knife i'm working on seems to be going well. I am quite proud of my filing jig. It is by no means an original design, but it works well, is precisely adjustable, and is also quiet thanks to the nylon piece you see the guide rod going through. Quietness is important to me because I live in barracks and don't want to disturb my neighbors. I know the grinds aren't perfectly straight but i'm in the process of taking the grind back further. I'm shooting for a 3/4 flat grind. Let me know what you think of the blade so far.
I also had a questions regarding steel. I got this 1084 with the intention of heat treating it myself. I have a paint can forge built but my confidence in it isn't so high. While I work on building a better forge, I figured i'd just go ahead and send my knives out for heat treatment. Since i'm doing this I want to acquire a stainless steel. Both AEB-L and 14c28n have caught my attention as they are easy to work and affordable. I intend to make mostly hunting/bushcraft/utility knives with under 5" blades and maybe a couple kitchen knives as gifts if I feel my work is good enough to be presented that way. I love Kershaw's 13c26n and 14c28n for their keen edges and they seem pretty durable. I know that AEB-L/13c26n is considered to be good for kitchen knives but would either of these steels stand up to and game processing chores or the occasional light batoning of thin wood to make kindling? Your input is greatly appreciated. Pics!




 
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Your filling jig looks awesome! Much better then mine.
What file do you use for it?

The bevel nice and straight as well as symetrical.
BTW, the plunge line looks very straight (90 degree corner). A rounded edge is better.
 
the file jib is awesome. well done with that sir.

can't really help you with the metal questions.

and i would also bring the bevel up higher.
 
I do plan on raising the bevel quite a bit almost to a full flat grind. Its currently around 8°
 
Looking good so far. Only word of advice would be to get a round file and hit the plunges before you start your bevel. Take them up to almost where you want your bevel to be. Atleast in my experience when I wait to round them out its very difficult not to get down into your edge area and to not end up with a divot running up just in front of your plunge.

As I said looking good. By the way barracks suck. Dont miss them days at all.
 
Thanks for the encouraging words guys. I've run into a bit of an issue however. In raising the grind height it seems i got a bit happy with the file and ground a little too deep on one side. In order to even them out i think i'll end up with too thin of an edge. I had to quit working for the day but my plan is to even out the other side and see if the edge is too thin at that point. If it is I'll probably have to take a bit of material off the belly line so it is thicker.
Shane- I do plan on doing my own heat treat at some time but until I get a better forge built i'll be sending it out for ht. its also really cold here in alaska so i'm not sure my propane tanks will last too long before freezing up.
 
Most everyone recommends taking the edge to the thickness of a dime, 0.040-30", before heat treat. However, many people go thinner than that. Your edge looks pretty thick in the pictures. With a flat grind you should be ok with as thin as 0.020"
 
do you have a link for that Jig? was thinking of making something like that for my table top workshop.

it looks pretty straight forward. two pieces of hard wood, and some eye bolts. one 1/2 rod. add some patience. ...jig.
 
mjderstine said:
do you have a link for that Jig? was thinking of making something like that for my table top workshop.

it looks pretty straight forward. two pieces of hard wood, and some eye bolts. one 1/2 rod. add some patience. ...jig.
Click to expand...

Search YouTube for Arron Gough he has a tutorial for making one and he explains it very well
 
Off to a good start. Some good tips have been given to you already. I'll ad another.
You can sand the file marks out of the bevels in the same jig. Just wrap the file in sand paper and go at it with progressively finer paper. Definitely want to get it all smooth before HT. Getting out scratches after HT is not fun
 
mccandmatt said:
Search YouTube for Arron Gough he has a tutorial for making one and he explains it very well
Click to expand...

HA. actually found that on youtube about 30 seconds after i asked you. yours definitely has your personal touches to it compared to his. but i like them all.

gonna be building something this weekend. or even tonight.
 
thijsco19 said:
What file do you use on your filling jig?
Click to expand...

+1

That looks fantastic man. About how many hours would you say you have wrapped up in it?

I keep trying to convince myself to turn off the grinder and try a file jig but I really don't have as much time as (I think) I'd need. I work on stuff in 30 minute or less increments.
 
Strigamort said:
+1

That looks fantastic man. About how many hours would you say you have wrapped up in it?

I keep trying to convince myself to turn off the grinder and try a file jig but I really don't have as much time as (I think) I'd need. I work on stuff in 30 minute or less increments.
Click to expand...

THIS sums up all of my hobbies.
 
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