HT farriers rasp blades

[4hawks]

im hoping to do 3 knives from these rasps, wondering who would be best to send these to for HT? we dont need to get into whether or not they are the good ones or case hardened junk. planning these for gifts so id really like them to be HT correct. Ive always done my own but never worked with this stuff b4.
Scott

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Do you know what the alloy is? If not, then any HT is a guess. Just do them as 1084 and hope for the best.

 

[4hawks]

Do you know what the alloy is? If not, then any HT is a guess. Just do them as 1084 and hope for the best.

alloy unknown...appreciate the advice, will do!

 

[BearPawBlacksmithing]

I usually heat to an orange and brine quench. then I will draw it back to a purple on the spine and the edge a straw.

 

[Ken H>]

I usually heat to an orange and brine quench.

Isn't oranges a ways past red in heating? Isn't magnetic a dull red? Have your checked your grain size when heating to orange?

 

[BearPawBlacksmithing]

Isn't oranges a ways past red in heating? Isn't magnetic a dull red? Have your checked your grain size when heating to orange?

I have.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If asking a recommended temperature and procedure., I would shoot for 1500-1550 and quench in fast oil. This is around 100 degrees above non-magnetic and would look cherry red to my eyes.

Color is very much a matter of perspective and personal observation. Different light, the type of heating source, and your own eyes will see it different. Three people may see the same temperature steel and will say, red, red-orange, and orange. That is why giving a color without a temperature is unwise. To my eyes, orange is around 1700-1750F.