HT plan for 5160

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Jul 8, 2013
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This is my compiled HT plan for 5160. If anyone who has worked with it can give me advice/changes to make that would be much appreciated. My 'forge' is made of kiln bricks, clay, a foot pump, and big bed of embers/fire. As such, I don't have a ton of precise temperature control. On the upside, I have an infrared thermometer, so I can point it at whatever I want and read the temperature extremely accurately. Here's my plan so far:

Normalize, three times, by heating to 1600F then letting air cool.

Full quench, three times, at 1525F. I know oil is preferable, but water would be A LOT easier to use. Will warm water suffice, or is oil pretty essential to avoid cracking? I will be quenching fairly thick (at least 1/4 inch at spine) choppers and the like.

Temper, three times, in kitchen oven at 400F for 2 hours each time, let air cool to room temperature between each tempering.

Put edge (about 1/2 inch up blade from edge) in water, heat spine with torch to 600F and let air cool to soften spine.

Thanks, for anyone who has suggestions, and for all of the knowledge the people who posted this info in the first place took the time to share.

-Matt
 
You do not need to repeat any of those first steps, and there are good reasons not to.
Normalize once at 1600°F and cool in air
Austenitize at 1525°F and quench in OIL. A gallon of canola oil will work fine for an average size blade. Do this step only once.
Temper twice at 400F for two hours each, with cooling in water between the tempers.
There is absolutely no need to draw down the spine, but if you wish to, your plan will be OK. The upper spine should be a blue color.
 
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