HT S30V

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Maineiac1

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May 3, 2017
Messages
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Looking to step up into a better steel and trying S30V. I'm going to making some test coupons but it looks like I'm going to want to temper at 600 degrees, my little oven I use for high carbons to temper doesn't go that high. So how do folks temper? if I'm heat treating this at 1950ish then plate quench do you just ramp the oven back to 600 and wait for it to equilize? or do you have a second oven pre set at 600? Is the wait time for my oven to cool down to 600 going to be a problem since it will take an hour or so?
 
You don't need to rush for high alloy steel. Just wait till the kiln is down to 400-450F. You can put it in the freezer for some RA conversion or even better just do the subzero. For S30V I believe tempering at 450F would be the best all around range.
 
Why S30V rather than S35V? Seems they're almost the same steel except the S35V is said to be easier to work.
 
good question, I'm having a hard time finding the thickness of s30v I want so s35vn it is... seems like a better option after research anyways. Also it was a request a friend wanted for a knife. on top of that its a steel that within my kiln heat treating abilities. The reason I think id want 600 degree temper is on the crucible its the recommended... tests will be done though.
 
I use S35VN fr all my stainless blades. It make really great blades.

HT is basic.
Wrap blade in stainless foil and place in 1600F oven for 10-15 minutes
Ramp to 1950F and austenitized for 30 minutes
Plate quench to room temp
Sub-zero in a dry ice/alcohol bath for 20-30 minutes
Temper twice at 450F for 1 hour each
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I use S35VN fr all my stainless blades. It make really great blades.

HT is basic.
Wrap blade in stainless foil and place in 1600F oven for 10-15 minutes
Ramp to 1950F and austenitized for 30 minutes
Plate quench to room temp
Sub-zero in a dry ice/alcohol bath for 20-30 minutes
Temper twice at 450F for 1 hour each
Click to expand...

Thank you very much!!
 
If you do cryo rather than dry ice, you will have to temper a bit higher, or austenize a bit lower as you will get an additional Rc point over sub zero.
 
Maineiac1 said:
great tip, any luck without cryo or should i just go for it?
Click to expand...


Get some dry ice and mix it with acetone or lacquer thinner. Works quite well with s35vn. This is called sub zero, liquid nitrogen gets a couple hundred degrees colder for full cryo.
 
Plain denatured alcohol from the paint department at the hardware store works as well as highly volatile acetone or lacquer thinner. It is both cheaper and much safer .. as well as far less toxic.

A gallon cost less than $15. It can be used over and over again. When the su-zero is done, let the dry ice sublimate until the alcohol has stopped bubbling and is clear. Pour it back into the can using a wide funnel. Put the lid on loosely until the can has warmed to ambient (four or five hours to overnight). When equalized, shake the can well to release any dissolved CO2 and snug the cap down. The alcohol is fine to use as a cleaner for epoxy and stuff, but I wrote SUB-ZERO on the can and use it only for that.
 
Pops has great prices on s35v. I was going to pick up a couple of sticks with my next belt order.

How is it to finish post HT?
 
You won't mirror polish this easily … or at all.

S35VN is a tough steel once hardened. It is wise to get all the details done pre-HT to a very good 400 grit. The edge can be .010" at HT. I do fillet blades with an edge even thinner sometimes. Make sure there are no deep scratches on the bevels.

Post-HT you have to use fresh belts and it goes slow. I use a "machine finish" on S35VN, usually at 220 grit followed by a Scotch Bright maroon belt.
 
Thanks for the great tips, I appreciate the knowledge sharing! Hope some day I can be passing it along
 
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