timos-
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2012
- Messages
- 2,164
I have a few knives available as well as a couple beaters. All of my knives leave my shop with a hair shaving edge. I use West Systems marine grade two part epoxy and SS or brass pins. If you would like a 10 oz leather sheath add 30$ to the price and allow for an extra 7-10 days before ship. Any of these items can be returned up to 7 days after being received for a full refund as long as they are in original condition. All my knives are offered up in good faith and if there is ever a problem with function I will do my best to resolve it. I will etch my makers mark on right side bevel or engrave my insignia if preferred.
I will list them low$ to high$.
Beater #1
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Black and Orange G10 with SS pins
Overall Length: 7" with a 3" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This is a Chisel ground small shop knife. This knife is not symmetrical at all. I used .04 thick Orange G10 on one side and .14 thick Black G10 on the other. It has a 3/8" lanyard hole. This has been sitting on my shelf for almost a year now, maybe someone can put it to good use. All handle surfaces are rounded.
SOLD
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Beater #2
Blade Steel: 1095 to hardness of RC 58 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Walnut and Naval Brass
Overall Length: 9.5" with a 4" blade.
Thickness: .144 at thickest
This one was ground too thin prior to heat treat so I had to go back and "re-profile" the edge. It has morphed into an outdoor gardening type tool. I have used the serrations to trim thin branches that you would otherwise need some pruners for. The handle area at base of blade was pulling away from tang so throughout this past summer I sealed and resealed the edges with CA. It is pretty solid now. The handle shape is comfy and will fit larger hands nicely.
SPF
---------------------------------------
Next is a 7" utility knife
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Thunderstorm Kevlar/black g10 and Naval Brass
Overall Length: 7" with a 7" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife is a repost. It is chisel ground and has a bit of a recurve to the edge. Handle is hand sanded to 2000 grit.
SPF
---------------------------------------
Next is a Bird and Trout model
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Toxic Green/Carbon Fiber Laminate with SS pin and Lanyard tube.
Overall Length: 8" with a 3.5" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife is slim but is quite thick at the spine and point. It has been ground to take some abuse beyond what is typical for a bird and trout. I imagined cutting half frozen bait against the rocks of the Cape Cod Canal when I was grinding this knife
It will slice but wont flex much if at all. If you prefer a small filet that wont flex, this is it. I used a 36" radius platen to grind the bevels. There is about .015 thousandths behind the edge and a full .040 behind the tip. Ive wet sanded the handle up to 1000 grit. The Carbon Fiber looks really cool.
SOLD
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Next is my Small Hunter
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Stabilized Madrone Burl.
Overall Length: 7" with a 3" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife has close to a zero grind. There is only a few thousandths behind the edge. It is real thin at the tip too. This handle shape fits a small hand great, otherwise its more of what I call a 3 finger handle at only 4" long. Ive got some 1/8" thick stabilized madrone burl from Burl Source on top of some black g10 liners. The wood cleaned up with a subtle burl figure at 1500 grit. Reminds me of the wood trim in a luxury car. This knife will slice and slice and slice. Others might refer to this size knife as a pocket fixed blade.
SPF
------------------------------------------
Last but not least is my Trailing Point Hunter/Skinner
Blade Steel: O-1 tool steel (Mcmaster Carr certified) to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Fossil Walrus Cheek
Overall Length: 7.25" with a 3.125" blade.
Thickness: .125 at thickest
The handle material has some interesting character. I used thin black g10 liners underneath it and a couple naval brass pins. It is not stabilized and is bone so it does move around a little. It has sat through a summer and winter now and I have sealed the edges and cavities with CA glue several times. I ground this with a 36" radius platen to mimic the large diameter stone wheels of old. The blade is .01 to .015 thick behind the edge and a little heavier towards the tip. I also have an right hand sheath just about done for this knife in 10 oz wicket & craig tooling leather. The sheath is patterned after the sharpfinger style sheath with a retention strap and button for the handle.
Asking 150$ plus S&H. (this price includes sheath)
I will list them low$ to high$.
Beater #1
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Black and Orange G10 with SS pins
Overall Length: 7" with a 3" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This is a Chisel ground small shop knife. This knife is not symmetrical at all. I used .04 thick Orange G10 on one side and .14 thick Black G10 on the other. It has a 3/8" lanyard hole. This has been sitting on my shelf for almost a year now, maybe someone can put it to good use. All handle surfaces are rounded.
SOLD




------------------------------------
Beater #2
Blade Steel: 1095 to hardness of RC 58 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Walnut and Naval Brass
Overall Length: 9.5" with a 4" blade.
Thickness: .144 at thickest
This one was ground too thin prior to heat treat so I had to go back and "re-profile" the edge. It has morphed into an outdoor gardening type tool. I have used the serrations to trim thin branches that you would otherwise need some pruners for. The handle area at base of blade was pulling away from tang so throughout this past summer I sealed and resealed the edges with CA. It is pretty solid now. The handle shape is comfy and will fit larger hands nicely.
SPF




---------------------------------------
Next is a 7" utility knife
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Thunderstorm Kevlar/black g10 and Naval Brass
Overall Length: 7" with a 7" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife is a repost. It is chisel ground and has a bit of a recurve to the edge. Handle is hand sanded to 2000 grit.
SPF






---------------------------------------
Next is a Bird and Trout model
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Toxic Green/Carbon Fiber Laminate with SS pin and Lanyard tube.
Overall Length: 8" with a 3.5" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife is slim but is quite thick at the spine and point. It has been ground to take some abuse beyond what is typical for a bird and trout. I imagined cutting half frozen bait against the rocks of the Cape Cod Canal when I was grinding this knife

SOLD


-------------------------------------------------------
Next is my Small Hunter
Blade Steel: AEB-L to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Stabilized Madrone Burl.
Overall Length: 7" with a 3" blade.
Thickness: .110 at thickest
This knife has close to a zero grind. There is only a few thousandths behind the edge. It is real thin at the tip too. This handle shape fits a small hand great, otherwise its more of what I call a 3 finger handle at only 4" long. Ive got some 1/8" thick stabilized madrone burl from Burl Source on top of some black g10 liners. The wood cleaned up with a subtle burl figure at 1500 grit. Reminds me of the wood trim in a luxury car. This knife will slice and slice and slice. Others might refer to this size knife as a pocket fixed blade.
SPF




------------------------------------------
Last but not least is my Trailing Point Hunter/Skinner
Blade Steel: O-1 tool steel (Mcmaster Carr certified) to hardness of RC 60 by Peters Heat Treating.
Handle: Fossil Walrus Cheek
Overall Length: 7.25" with a 3.125" blade.
Thickness: .125 at thickest
The handle material has some interesting character. I used thin black g10 liners underneath it and a couple naval brass pins. It is not stabilized and is bone so it does move around a little. It has sat through a summer and winter now and I have sealed the edges and cavities with CA glue several times. I ground this with a 36" radius platen to mimic the large diameter stone wheels of old. The blade is .01 to .015 thick behind the edge and a little heavier towards the tip. I also have an right hand sheath just about done for this knife in 10 oz wicket & craig tooling leather. The sheath is patterned after the sharpfinger style sheath with a retention strap and button for the handle.
Asking 150$ plus S&H. (this price includes sheath)




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