Hydraulic press

That manual press will be miserably slow, You might be able to forgeweld with it, but it will suck.
 
Badmouthblacksmith said:
It has air over hydraulic would that wrk or be dangerous?
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It wont be dangerous.
In this context, Air over hydraulic is simply an air actuated ocsillation mechanism what does the 'hyd pumping.
While can be faster than a good right arm, its still pretty slow.

Btw, most air/'hyd jacks have also manual pumping ability.
 
I use a mini press I built a long time ago that use an air over oil 20ton jack. And yes it's not as fast as say my buddy salems press (I like his press) it's still a hell of a lot faster then going after it by hand. And it can move some metal as long as you don't take to long as the billet cools. I make a lot of Damascus with mine and even though it's slower then a big press I'm happy with it for what it is. It sits on my bench next to my forge and does all I ask it to do. I regularly forge down a 2"X 2"x6" billets of Damascus with it. I did one that was about twice that a few months ago. Would I use it over a big press, no. But it was a hell of a lot cheaper to build. I will be building a larger purpos built press later next year I hope but this gets me through my needs at the moment.

I have a few sets of dies made for it and thy work really good for that it is.
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You can see the difference between JT's press and that one on eBay. His is beefy, rigid, and well braced. That shop press you lined to might work for straightening a bent bar, stamping a logo, or pressing in/out a car part, but it won't work for forging.

In bottle jack presses, speed is the main problem. You often only get a few squeezes per heat.
 
Alright So I have been looking into making one of the small bottlejack presses. How thick do the walls on the square tubing need to be?
 
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