Hypothetical Khukuri

Rust

Rust

Joined
Sep 29, 2001
Messages
119
Okay, here it is - the briefly-awaited and almost-anticipated hypothetical Khukuri:

http://www.bmts.com/~othrside/khukuri.htm

I'd post the image directly here, only I get the notion I'm not s'pposed to do that.

Anyways, opinions? Is it a Khukuri, even? Is it worth translating to steel, and if so, how?
 
To me it looks like a scythe blade with the handle cut off really really short.

--Matt
 
The angle of the handle and blade seem to be too large to be able to chop. Make one out of wood and cardboard and see what I mean. I'm no expert tho.
 
As Bruise said, the angle of the handle in relation to the curve of the spine seems too abrupt - as though the blade will try to turn in the hand when sudden movement is necessary. Try an increasing radius curve for the first 1/3 of the spine, from the handle forward. Include the handle in the curve (curved handle, as on the old hanshees), but only about 4°. See if that will return control of the tip to the hand.
 
Interesting design. It does look alot like a sickle, though. Maybe you could also design the unanticipated HI hammer, and call this peice "Komrade Khukuri" :D ;).

I'd also have to agree with Wal at least in part. I'm no expert, but the handle might tend twist while chopping. Otherwise I think it should work ok :). A fuller on the blade might be a good suggestion, IMO. That would move the balance point forward and might help keep the handle from twisting abit, if that makes sense to anyone but me.:D

Looking at some old hanshees might give you some other ideas, too.
 
Yeah, well, I left the Cho out of the preliminary design. Plenty of room for it, I'm sure.

I've made an alternate design, more or less according to Walosi's advice, with the handle's angle reduced by 4 degrees and curved

See second pic at:

http://www.bmts.com/~othrside/khukuri.htm

I thought fullers were a given, though I'm not sure of the exact shape or placement.

Bit by bit, this is turning into less and less the knife I'd fallen in love with. :P
 
You should think about doing a wood model of one of the drawings, if you really like it. Send it to the kamis (via Uncle Bill) and I don't see why they wouldn't make it. Of course, it may turn out "modified". There have been plenty of other unusual models made into real knives by HI, (including a bowie, a D-guard khuk w/ double edges, and a falcata) so I don't see why this couldn't be made into a real knife. If you really like the knife, then why not? Maybe Uncle will be around tomorrow to confirm this. :D
 
Well, what are the costs for a special job like this? I'd like to own a high quality knife of my own design some day, but I may have to postpone that until I have a more reliable and significantly higher income (read: when I find work again).
 
My thought would be to increase the curve of the top-line, from the break back to the handle, and include the top-line of the handle as part of the curve. The amount of drop ahead of the break can be adjusted to whatever you think appropriate for the uses you have in mind. Of course, if you do any great amount of adjusting you are back into the realm of traditional Khukuri patterns, but most of them will accomodate chops, draw cuts, reverse grip balance, and thrusts (to some extent), so that ain't all bad. Most of the Khuk patterns have been influenced by others over the years, as village kamis learned from other kamis, travelers, business competition, etc. ad infinitum (much as we're doing here, but for hundreds of years). If you lose your original aesthetics, drop back when practical and see how much of that you can return to the design. Looks like fun.
 
Originally posted by Rust
I've made an alternate design, more or less according to Walosi's advice, with the handle's angle reduced by 4 degrees and curved
See second pic at:

http://www.bmts.com/~othrside/khukuri.htm

Bit by bit, this is turning into less and less the knife I'd fallen in love with. :P
Click to expand...

Rust you could have posted the drawing here. Everyone of us does it when we have dreamed up something new for discussion. It's a lot easier to have it in view here than trying to go to a link each time one wants to look at it.:D

The second one down in the drawing sorta reminds me of what a modernized ancient Greek Kopis would look like.:)
I like the lines in it, very graceful looking.
And not everything that's been submitted to the kamis for their rendition in steel has had a cho in it.
Personally I think a cho would ruin the looks of your creation although Matthew is correct when he says it has to have a cho to be called a khukuri.:)

I don't think it would be something I would or could use though, but that doesn't mean it isn't a good design, just personal preferences.

Cardboard models don't tell a lot in how a blade is apt to handle, although they're not completely useless, they can actually be pretty good in tweaking the design, but a wooden model comes pretty close to what one made in steel would be like.
I would suggest some heavy cardboard models and then a final one made from wood to determine whether you really like the handleing characteristics or not.
And just because no one else may be interested in what you come up with you can still have one made for yourself.
You may have to wait a little while on it, but the kamis would dayum sure make one for you.

"I thought fullers were a given,"
Nope, what you put on a wood model is what you get. I started making a new model for the YCS because the 1st one's blade warped and one never knows about the kamis.;)
The better the model the better the finished project.
 
Okay, if I'm not gonna catch hell for it, here's the pics. First the original drawing, then the modified.

<IMG SRC="http://www.bmts.com/~othrside/DT2.gif">

<IMG SRC="http://www.bmts.com/~othrside/DT3.gif">
 
I haven't seen many things that look quite like that. That gives it the great feature of being original, and unusual. When I try and draw something, they end up being neither, <i>I don't have a creative bone in my body</i>. :)

To me, it looks like it would be a great slasher, as many have said, a really nice sickle. I definately like the handle on the second one. I'll be interested to find out where that puppy's going to balance, it looks like it should be somewhere near the handle; which would tend to lends itself more to the slashing and drawcutting roles than the hacking and chopping. Of course, if you intend this to be a weapon or a machette that could be exactly what you want.
 
You end up with something like this...


(BTW - Rust this is your second sketch. I have just adjusted the handle and added some color)
 
...from the end of the "sword of shiva" to the handle - no more than another 1/2" drop at the handle/blade joining - but that is as close as I could come to a very slick, fast and useful blade, considering both brain cells are now very tired :D
 
Bob,

The design is intended primarily as a weapon. The balance is intended to be more towards the handle, to make it a 'hungry' blade, quick to react. Since most seem to prefer the second version, I'll go with that for the time being. Hey, there's time for revamps later.

N2S,

Yup, that design works. It loses some of the sickle shape that appealed to me, but I'll work on some other shapes as well. Guess I'll have a busy winter of carving.

Walosi,

I'm having a little trouble envisioning what you mean. If you're able, I'd like to see an illustration of your idea.
 
Since this is not a Khukuri after all, and since even hardness along the entire edge would probably be more appropriate to its role, I wonder if this blade might be a good cantidate for a hard katana-like hamon?
 
Engineering by committee has it's good points and it's bad. I think we've seen more good than bad so far.

Make a model and we'll see what the kamis can do. If you don't want a cho don't put one in. Figure about $200 for a 20 incher give or take an inch or two.

Keep tweeking.

Many thanks to all for valued input on this one.
 
..makes typed communications complicated at times :rolleyes: (Shaddap, Yvsa). Maybe this will help - In N2s' pic, just below the "g" in "image", is the end what I've called the "sword of shiva", whlich is engraved and enlayed on some blades. If the radius of that curve, back toward the handle, could be increased by 3-4° (but not enough to lower the handle at the joining of handle and blade by more than 1/2", I think the balace would remain essentially the same, but more control could be gained over the portion of the blade ahead of the "sword", in draw cuts and slashes. The trade-off would be a lessening in the ability to thrust, which the present shape has in abundance.
 
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