Take a good close look at the blade from a number of orientations - this is something you can observe Murray Carter doing before he starts on a knife. ID the warp and note its exact location. The bent/warped area can be worked from the inside curve just like a recurve (lower the handle slightly) - will be visible as a thinning of the bevel for no apparent reason, and will make it impossible to cleanly work it on the flat of the stone. It can keep a surprising stretch of the edge on either side from positively contacting the stone, so will need to be ground flat or worked in detail as described above. The opposite side might show a slight widening of the bevel at the same point, but is easier to deal with the outside of the curve, so might pass unnoticed. A large number of knives have small warps that can make trouble, especially when first sharpening.
The coarse side of the India stone has few boosters to recommend it. Frequently comes somewhat glazed from the factory due to the surface leveling. I never used mine till I lapped it good with loose silicon carbide grit, it works well now, but can still whip up a large burr if not carefully watched.
For really tough burr control I will repeat the recommendation to use a SiC stone. Due to the increased friability of the abrasive it is less prone to making larger burrs in the first place and is a lot easier to remove same. As an abrasive, SiC also tends to treat all steels very similarly, more so that AlumOx or diamonds IMHO - is a lot easier to predict how it will work and what sort of edge you'll wind up with. The India stone is a great tool, but requires a bit more finesse or added burr removal post stone work.
