I am not an "edge junky". I want my edges to cut and cut well. The way a Mora cuts, I love. Is micro-beveling needed? Should I keep microbevels?

Hashishiin

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I hear people say, "don't use the sharpmaker unless you're okay with your edge convexing", and I think I might be. That's how Chris Reeve (not that I have any of those, but I know the guy knows something about knives) sends and recs his knives to be. But my favorite brand, as well as many others, come already micro-beveled.

What do you recommend I do about that? Just bite the bullet, learn to microbevel, maybe sell one of my numerous knives for some better sharpening equipment? Or cut and sharp-make until the microbevel no longer exists? What would be pros and cons in doing so?

I ask cause I am gonna bring a Cruwear, 3V and 420HC knife out with me camping, all microbeveled, and try to maintain them. This trip will involve way more cutting than normal, without the day-to-day knife switching I do, so my knvies will get dull and I finally will HAVE to keep 'em sharp, not just use my sharpmaker on my low-ends and my SAK. So... should I bother keeping the microbevel? On all of those knives.
 
Get a worksharp field sharpener. The ceramic rod with the built in guide is excellent for touching up the apex of 20 ish degree per side. I tend to knock my shoulders to 15 to 18 degrees and run a 20 to 22 ish microbevel ( depending on steel ). The work sharp field sharpener is excellent in a pinch.

The advantage I find in a microbevel is the ease of maintenance. Once I get my edge set, I just touch up on ceramics. Easy.

The sharpmaker is good to set a microbevel as well. Just make sure your secondary grind is thinner that the microbevel.

I think I might be an “edge junky” 😂

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I never "micro bevel". I reprofile to a nice acute 10 per side/20 inclusive edge. Why would I take the time and put in the effort to do that, then dull it with an obtuse 30 degree inclusive angle?
 
I go with a microbevel purely out of being lazy. It’s lightning fast to keep sharp. It depends on the knife too. A small edc pocket knife, Wenger or such - no microbevel. A bigger folder or fixed blade - microbevel. I’m sloppy as hell freehand on a stone, better than I was 10 years ago, not much though. The microbevel just works for my uses.
 
I suggest you buy a double sided stone at the hardware store and learn how to sharpen a knife. It isn't rocket science, but you can't think it sharp, either. The only way you are going to get passable results is by putting in the work to learn. If aquiring a skill by investing time and effort sounds too much like work, get a Stanley utility knife and a box of disposable blades and learn how to do everything with that.
 
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I think I’m confused with OP’s questions. I probably should have read the post a few times before responding. I’m having difficulty taking a picture of the microbevel I put on my users. The pic above, 16 degree / 32 inclusive convex ( roughly ) 20 degree microbevel ( roughly). It’s easy to maintain with a few passes on ceramic. The heavy lifting is done with the re profiling of the edge, in this case from Scandi / saber with v to convex with microbevel. To each their own. This is just easy to maintain once it’s dialed in. The microbevel is tiny - it cuts really well, For me.
 
I don't think you are the one who is confused. The OP appears to want someone to hand him a magic wand that he can wave and make his knives sharp. He needs to forget the word "microbevel" and concentrate on the basics for a couple of years (or decades). Terms don't have any real meaning until you establish a basic understanding of the subject. Once he masters the basic skill to put a useful edge on a blade, some of this stuff will start to make sense and he'll be able to answer his own questions. Until he puts in that effort it's a waste of time trying to tell him anything.
 
I've bought a ton of vintage traditional knives off of the auction site recently and have begun to appreciate using a diamond stone and just hand sharpening. I still don't do mirror polished edges, but I can grind out the knicks quickly, get a decent burr and a great edge, all without having to set up the sharpener and spend time mounting the blade. Carbon Steel sharpens quickly and it is a great place to learn. Carbon Steel and a two sided stone beats super-steel and no stone when you're camping for any length of time. Eventually everything gets dull.
 
To the OP, I would get a 2 sided diamond stone and learn to use it. It will quickly sharpen any of the steels that you've listed. I wouldn't worry about microbevels when you are camping. Some good choices are the Worksharp previously mentioned or DMT. I'm sure there are plenty of others as well.
 
I’ll have to disagree with afishhunter. One purpose for a microbevel is that when you are cutting really tough materials that include abrasive dirt or contamination such as poly bale twine, feed sacks and such it will keep a good working edge a lot longer.
At 10 dps it will be very sharp but depending on the hardness and steel alloy it can wear down much quicker because there’s not as much metal at the apex.

For my heavy duty work knives I like to profile at 15 dps and then a 17 dps micro bevel. It is still very sharp and slices very cleanly but it holds that edge for a long time and then a touch up is quick to achieve a keen edge.

For my other knives that aren’t used in the more demanding or dirty tasks I don’t micro bevel until it needs a touch up. After several touch ups I reprofile the edge. Each subsequent touch up the micro bevel becomes more prominent so that a reprofile becomes necessary.
 
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