I bought this axe head for $20. Project or paperweight?

I’ve been asking that same question a lot in the last few months, and I’m beginning to think that the answer is always YES. What people do with them next is out of our hands. All I know is many of these relics are on their last stop before the recyclers. Can’t do any harm.
 
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marcus52AR said:
I'm not very knowledgeable in the axe department. I found this axe head today at a garage sale. Is it worth sinking time and energy into?

Thanks.
View attachment 1878743View attachment 1878744View attachment 1878745View attachment 1878746
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Eye looks like it's not deformed? The bit looks like it it's pretty even. More abuse than use.
It's a vintage GBA. That weight is pretty useful too.
A wire cup brush in an angle grinder will help blend in the clean up from the mushroomed poll.
:thumbsup:
 
marcus52AR marcus52AR …

Thanks! I’m still unsure if burning is the way to go but I’ve burned every one of them so far, maybe twenty in total since the start of the year. I’ve read mixed opinions on burning. I’m using a bass wire wheel, together with a rusty sludge of white vinegar in an ultrasonic cleaner to do the heads. I like the way burned handles pop against the grey/green patina. Hand files and drywall backed paper to reprofile and sharpen.
 
garry3 said:
Eye looks like it's not deformed? The bit looks like it it's pretty even. More abuse than use.
It's a vintage GBA. That weight is pretty useful too.
A wire cup brush in an angle grinder will help blend in the clean up from the mushroomed poll.
:thumbsup:
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Thanks, I'm not up on all the terminology of an axe, but I think I understand your assessment.

What classification of axe is this considered? I was on the Gransfors Bruk website and they don't have this style.

Where can I find information on the length of handle and how to go about restoration?

Thx

Edit to add..

There looks to be some deformation looking down the other end of the barrel. 20220723_145136_copy_1200x1600.jpg20220723_145105_copy_1200x1600.jpg
 
marcus52AR said:
Thanks, I'm not up on all the terminology of an axe, but I think I understand your assessment.

What classification of axe is this considered? I was on the Gransfors Bruk website and they don't have this style.

Where can I find information on the length of handle and how to go about restoration?

Thx

Edit to add..

There looks to be some deformation looking down the other end of the barrel. View attachment 1878818View attachment 1878819
Click to expand...
Looks like the eye does have some deformation, but it's not too bad.

The handle length is up to you, it's a personal choice. I have a Montreal pattern on a 28" straight haft that was hung when I bought it. It feels really good, for me.


I suspect that axe is from the 70's give or take a decade.

I think Hults Bruks still manufactures a Montreal for the Canadian market.
 
garry3 said:
Looks like the eye does have some deformation, but it's not too bad.

The handle length is up to you, it's a personal choice. I have a Montreal pattern on a 28" straight haft that was hung when I bought it. It feels really good, for me.


I suspect that axe is from the 70's give or take a decade.

I think Hults Bruks still manufactures a Montreal for the Canadian market.
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You're right, I checked their site and there's two different models.

Copied from the website.

Useful for more than cutting down trees, the 2.5-pound Montreal pattern axe head features wide cheeks for splitting with a long blade that chops deep cuts, paired with a curved 28-inch American hickory handle. Painted Agdor blue and expertly hand forged from premium Swedish steel, sharpened and ready to use out of the box. Accompanied by a leather sheath, handcrafted in Waynesville, N.C. using traditional methods.

The Agdor 28 Montreal Felling Axe is also popular in the growing sport of axe throwing. When an axe-throwing match ends in a tied score, the “big axe,” or felling axe, is used to break the tie and determine the winner. The 28-inch Agdor meets league requirements for size, weight and materials, and also provides a durable, customizable axe for serious throwers looking to up their game. The cutting edge is approximately 4.25-inches in length. Note: all Hults Bruk axes are hand forged, so there may be slight variations from axe to axe.

And..

A full-sized axe for felling large trees and a great all-arounder for working outdoors the traditional way, useful around the home or at camp for felling and splitting smaller rounds of firewood. The Montreal pattern axe head features a long and narrow cutting edge (approximately 5-inches in length) that easily slices through wood, while the 3.5-lb axe head is balanced with a 32-inch American hickory handle to drive considerable power. Painted Agdor blue and expertly hand forged from premium Swedish steel, sharp and ready to use out of the box. Accompanied by a leather sheath handcrafted by Axe and Awl Leatherworks in Waynesville, N.C. All Hults Bruk axes are hand-forged, so there may be slight variations from axe to axe.

Mine at 3lbs is right in the middle of the two. Maybe a 30" handle if I can find it, seems about right compared to these.

Now I'm on the hunt for a handle. I don't really know where to look. I'm located in Canada if anyone knows of retailers up here.

Edit to add. I'm checking out the big river site and found 2 brands of 30" hickory handles. Truper and Faithful. Mixed reviews on both.
 
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I found a Canadian website that sells Gransfors Bruk replacement handles. I'm on the fence between the 31 and the 35".

I was initially thinking 35 because I'm tall, but after using a measuring tape doing some pretend swings I think the 31 will suit this axe better.

I'm going to order the handle and sheath tonight. After I hang it I'll take it in to be professionally sharpened...

More to come.
 
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dirc said:
professionally sharpened?? ... imho, that is rarely the case, most of those outfits take it to a wheel

you might want to get an axe puck and learn to do it yourself, it's really not difficult, and there are dozens of threads you can learn from here
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This.
Learn to sharpen your own tools. Do it by hand with no power tools. It's a good thing to know and pass on.
 
D dirc and K kvaughn

I'm debating on sharpening this myself, but the main thing is time. I can buy a sharpening puck and spend many hrs to take out the chips and dents, or I can take it to a shop for 25 bucks. They use a slack belt and take it up to 8000 grit convex.

Is belt grinding frowned upon?

Once the edge is cleaned up I'm sure I can maintain it easily.
 
I did some more cleaning and shaping up the edges. I think I'm pretty close to being done, I'm liking the way it's looking. I took a couple of closeups of the edge to show the damage, there's some fair sized chips out of the edge.

I used a combination of wire brushes in a drill, mesh sand cloth, angle grinder and a file. I gave it some quick soaks in penatrating oil between flips. Took about 1 hr.

20220802_203459_copy_1027x1369.jpg20220802_203429_copy_1098x1464.jpg20220802_203216_copy_1154x1539.jpg20220802_203119_copy_1145x1527.jpg
 
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